DIY Network

Wainscoting and Chair Rail Molding From "DIY to the Rescue" episode DTTR-202

The wainscoting and chair rail add a romantic cottage feel to the bedroom and are the perfect complement to the softly glazed walls.

After the crew has cleared the room, host Karl Champley shows the Bensons how to install custom wainscoting and chair rail molding.

Materials:

1/4" thick wainscoting
Molding cap
Baseboard molding
Caulk gun
Paneling glue (to be used in caulk gun)
Paneling nails
Eye goggles
White caulk or putty (if installing pale wainscoting panels)
Pneumatic nailer
Miter box and saw
Power miter saw
Tape measure
Level
Pry bar
Stud finder
Pencil
Jig saw
Table saw
Drill
Utility knife

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

1. Remove baseboards, then use a utility knife to cut where the paint meets the drywall. Using a pry bar lever the board away from wall.

2. Remove all the faceplates from the electrical outlets.

3. Measure wall and cut wainscoting to proper dimensions (figure A). In this demonstration, the full-size sheet will need to be cut to three pieces measuring 32" each.

4. Determine the location of the wall studs using a stud finder. (Most studs are placed 16" on center.)

5. Mark 32" line from floor up the wall and, from that mark, run a level line all the way around the room. This will insure that the wainscoting is installed evenly.

6. Take a dimension for this line to the outlet and also from this corner to the outlet and that’ll actually determine where to make the cut for the outlet hole. You don’t have be too exact because the faceplate will cover it. Once you have the dimensions, transfer them to the wainscoting.

7. To cut opening for electrical face plates, drill a hole at each corner of the face place measurements, then flip the panel over, so the cut is from the backside. Use a jigsaw to cut a line between the holes.

8. Because the wainscoting adds an additional 1/4" thickness to the wall, loosen outlets and bring it out a bit. When the face plates are reinstalled, they’ll be flush with the plate.

9. Next, use a caulk gun to run beads of glue along the top, bottom and both sides of the panel. Apply a line in a zig-zag pattern through the middle (figure B). Position the panel, keeping it flush with the line marked around the room. Use a small 2 x 4 wrapped in paper cloth to keep from the scratching the surface while pressing to secure (figure C).

10. Add a few nails to the panel using a pneumatic nail gun (figure D). Nail the panel into the stud at 6" intervals. For safety's sake, always wear goggles when using a pneumatic nailer.

11. To cover the nail holes and seams at point where panels meet, fill with white caulk or a small amount of putty and smooth with fingers.

12. Remove window molding with pry bar, then measure around the window for panel. Cut the panel to fit and glue and nail as before. Replace the window molding.

13. To install cap molding and baseboards, use a portable miter box and hand saw to cut moldings at 45-degree angles (figure E) to meet in the corners.

14. While wearing protective eyewear, nail the cap molding into place atop wainscoting. Apply the same technique to replace the baseboards.