DIY Network

Cottage: Bead Board Installation From "Bathroom Renovations" episode DBTR-105

	This old bathroom with its antiquated style ...
	and old floor is renovated into ...
	a new look with the cottage charm ...
	of the homeowner's summer vacation home.

Materials for Demolition --

Safety goggles
Duct tape
Hammer
Chisel
Pry bar

Materials for Bead Board Wall System --

Tape measure
Sliding compound miter saw
Jigsaw
Construction adhesive
Level
Pin Nailer

Materials for Skim coat Application --

Joint compound
Water
Liquid dish soap
Paddle mixer
12" taping knife
Mud pan

Materials for Flooring Install --

Rosin paper
Utility knife
Painter's tape
Spray adhesive
Double-stick tape

Materials for Sink Installation --

Safety goggles
Power drill
Wrench
Carpenter's pencil
Level

advertisement

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

Bead Board Installation

1. Original bead board is made out of solid wood and it tends to expand and extract and you are left with gaps between the slats. The homeowner chose an MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) that will prevent the expanding and contracting, and will give a nice, even finish.

2. The bead board is easy to put together. It is made with lap joints (figure A) that fit together and you can mix and match the different pieces depending on how you want to set up your bathroom.

3. After you have removed the existing base and shoe, take measurements and cut the baseboard to length. When putting up the new wall system, the first thing you do is put in the bottom rail (figure B), then the rest of the bead board. When you put the new flooring in, you will butt it up against the bottom of the rail.

4. The shoe will then be placed against the bottom of the railing to give it a finished look.

5. Take the measurements and cut the baseboard to length. Use a sliding compound miter saw to make 45-degree miter cuts in the corners.

   Note: Make sure your miter saw is unplugged when you are making adjustments.

6. When you are putting bead board in, you want to make sure all the slats are plumb. To do that, you need to make sure the rail is level. Set the rail on the highest point on the floor. As you go around the room, you will have gaps (figure C) in the areas of the floor that are lower, but the shoe should cover the irregularities.

7. To adhere the rail to the wall, start with a heavy bead of construction adhesive along the length of the board and press the board to the wall.

8. For the bead board, apply adhesive to the back of the board, and starting in the corner, set the lap joint into the track of the bottom rail (figure D). Check to make sure the board is plumb, and make adjustments if necessary -- make sure the first course is absolutely straight.

9. Secure the bead board with a pin nailer. When nailing, go into the narrow profile to hide the nail heads as much as possible.

10. Most of the bead boards cuts are pretty simple and can be made with a miter saw, but for small cuts around the window, you will need to use a jigsaw to get the proper profile.

11. After all the bead board is up, the top rail can be applied. Repeat the process -- adhesive to the back, press firmly in place and secure with nails.

12. The cap will go on after the upper wall is finished and painted. Because of the Venetian plaster on the homeowner's walls, there were some pitted areas and uneven texture. The walls need to be skim coated before they are painted.

    Note: Wipe the walls clean first to remove any dirt or grime.

13. Use standard drywall compound right out of the bucket. It is a little thick for skim coating, so thin it down with a little water.

    DIY Tip: Add a little liquid dish soap. The soap helps remove air bubbles from the compound!

14. Give the compound a spin with a paddle mixer until it reaches a smooth, even consistency.

15. Use a 12" taping knife and a mud pan to hold the compound while you work. The mud will fill in all the pits and depressions in the wall (figure E). If the first coat doesn't get it, the second coat will for sure. It takes the compound a couple of hours to dry, and then you can apply the second coat.

In the next segment the floor is installed.

RESOURCES :

Sinks and Toilet (Kohler)
Product name: Kathryn Lavatory
Model #: K-2323-9-NG
Color: Tea Green

Product name: Kathryn Pedestal
Model #: K-2324-NG
Color: Tea Green

Product name: Lavatory Supply
Model #: K-7605-P-BN
Color: Brushed Nickel

Product: P-Trap
Model #: K-8998-CP
Color: Polished Chrome

Product name: Kathryn Toilet
Model #: K-3324-NG
Color: Tea Green

Product: Kathryn Toilet Seat
Model #: K-4701-BN-NG
Color: Tea Green

Product name: Trip Lever
Model #: K-9451-BN
Color: Brushed Nickel

Product name: Toilet Supply
Model #: K-7637-BN
Color: Brushed Nickel

Product name: Memoirs Lavatory Faucet Deco Handles
Model #: K-454-4V-BN
Color: Brushed Nickel
Where available: Visit the Kohler website, link below.

Kohler Co.
Website: www.us.kohler.com

Floor Covering (Design Materials, Inc.)
Product: Woven Vinyl Floor Covering
Model #: Seasons Flooring
#176 Spring Break
Brand name: Design Materials
Where available: Visit the Design Materials website, link below.
Design Materials, Inc.
Website: www.dmikc.com

Light Vanity (Task Lighting)
Model #: M-5582-84
Color: Frosted Glass, Brushed Nickel
Brand name: Mission Ridge
Where available: Visit the Task Lighting website, link below.
Task Lighting
Website: www.tasklighting.com

Wood Wall Paneling and Wainscoting (New England Classic)
Name: Mission Ridge
Model #: Classic Bead Board
Color: Primed Wainscoting
Brand name: New England Classic
Where available: Visit the New England Classic website, link below.
New England Classic
Website: www.newenglandclassic.com

GUESTS :

Shane Kretsinger
Vice President, Operations
Autumn River
We apologize no contact information is available.