DIY Network

Art Deco (Part 1 of 4): Rebuilding Walls From "Bathroom Renovations" episode DBTR-101

	This antiquated '70s-style bathroom ...
	with a leaky tub ...
	is converted into an Art Deco delight that gives the rest of the house a new lift.
	Host Amy Matthews (right) and our homeowners discuss the renovation plans before digging into the demolition process in this first episode.

Materials for Demolition --

Safety goggles
Work gloves
Dust mask
Drop cloths
Garbage can
Sponge
Plunger
Hammer
Pliers
Putty knife
Plastic bag with rags
Wet/dry vacuum
Piece of plywood (to protect tub)
Tape (to cover tub drain)
Hammer
Reciprocating saw
6" all-purpose blade

Materials for Insulation and Cement Board --

Dust mask
Gloves
Long sleeve shirt
Safety goggles
Paper-faced batt insulation
Stapler
Porcelain coated screws
Screw gun
Cement board (Durarock)
Drywall square
Utility knife
Mud
Tape
Putty knife
Sandpaper
Joint compound
Sandpaper
Reciprocating saw

Material for Installing Knee Wall Glass Panel --

Glass panel
3/4" plywood
Adhesive
Screws
Hardibacker
Hardibacker screws
Channel (for panel)
Hacksaw
Laser level plumb bob
Drill
Screw gun
Suction cups (to carry glass)

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D

Rebuilding Walls

1. There are several options for rebuilding the bathroom walls:
   • Drywall -- sells for approximately $5 per 4 x 8 sheet. It does not work well for wet surfaces.

   • Greenboard -- sells for approximately $6 per 4 x 8 sheet. It would be okay for the general bathroom walls, just not good around the wet areas.

   • Hardibacker -- sells for approximately $9 per 3 x 5 sheet. It is thin and nice to use. It is made out of recycled paper products and Portland cement. It can be used on the walls and countertops and it has a grid that is useful for laying out your tiles.

2. The homeowners used a cement backerboard Durarock, which sells for approximately $7 per 3 x 5 sheet. It is a thicker and heavier board, (figure A) that has a nylon mesh that holds it together. It is great to use around wet areas.

3. The homeowners used a paper faced batt insulation with an R value of 11. You need to check the local code for the R value in your area. Staple the paper tabs along the edge to the inside of the studs (figure B), not to the outside face of the studs. This gives a better seal and keeps the paper out of the way when you lay on the wall board. Put staples about every 4 to 5 inches.

   Note: R-Factor is the Thermal Resistance Factor. Fiberglass is available in a variety of sizes and thicknesses. The thickness is called the R-Factor and the higher the R-Factor, the thicker the insulation.

4. While the paper forms a vapor barrier, you need to also staple on a 4 mil poly (figure C) because you're in such a wet environment.

5. Use special porcelain coated screws to install the cement board. The screws will not rust in a wet environment.

6. To cut the board, use a drywall square and score along the cut line with a sharp utility knife (figure D). The cement is tough, so you will have to score it a few times. Once it is scored, use your knee to snap the board in two, just like you do a piece of drywall, and then cut the seam along the back.

In the last segment of Pt. 4 of "Bathroom Renovations," a channel is installed on the newly built knee wall and the glass shower panel is dry fitted.

RESOURCES :

Wall and Shower Tile
Field Tile: Martinique Ice White 3x6 (MT25)
Border Tile: Gloss Black Chair Rail
Accent Tile: Glassworks Aspen Mist 3x6 (GWO1)
Where available: Visit the American Olean website, link below.

Floor Tile
Field: Chloe Satin White Pinwheel with Satin White 12x12 (CH01)
Inlay: Chloe Satin White Pinwheel with Gloss Black 12x12 (CH01)
Cove: Bright Gloss Black Cove Base 4x6 (49)
Brand name: American Olean
Where available: Visit the American Olean website, link below.

American Olean
Website: www.aotile.com

Cast Glass Shower Panel
Style: Custom Design
Where available: Visit the Artwork website, link below.
Artwork in Architectural Glass
Website: www.artworkinglass.com