This is an intermediate level project and rated 2 on a "difficulty" scale from 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult.In the first segment, the demolition of the old bathroom took place, which involved removing the mirror, lights, fixtures, baseboards and cabinet. In this segment, host Fuad Reveiz will re-route the electrical, patch some drywall and get started with the tile work.
Materials:
Beadboard
Pedestal sinks
Chair rail
Paint
Medicine cabinets
Light fixtures
Electrical materials (including non-metallic building electrical wire)
Remodel boxes (for wires)
Tools:
Utility knife
5-in-1 tool
Pry bar
Pliers
Level
Adjustable wrench
Circular saw
Scroll saw
Miter saw
Spiral cut saw
Drill
Brad nailer
Drywall tools and joint compound
Painting supplies
Screwdriver
Wire strippers
Wire nuts
Tape measure
Basic tiling tools (mastic, sponge, trowel, rubber float and tile cutter)
- Since the light fixtures should be directly over the drains, take measurements over the drains so you transfer them to the new light boxes that will be installed above on the wall.
- Mark a spot for the holes where the boxes will go. Then trace around the boxes (figure A).
- Cut the box holes out by using a spiral cut saw.
Note: Electrical code varies from city to city and county to county, so before you begin any rewiring, it's a good idea to check with your local building inspectors.
- With a little effort and some patience, take the main electrical line and fish it through one of the new holes for the boxes. Take another piece of non-metallic building electrical wire and fish it through the wall along with the main line over to the other new cutout (figure B).
Tip: Use a wire hanger and electrical tape to help fish the lines through the wall. Simply tape the lines together to create a stronger line in which to pull.
- Once the lines are pulled, feed them through the new boxes and set and screw the boxes into place (figure C).
- Now that the rewiring and cutout boxes are installed, it's time to make any necessary drywall repairs. For this particular project, there was a hole in the center of the wall that was left by the old fixture that had to be patched with drywall. Apply a thick layer of joint compound all around the edges of the patch. Then fill in all the areas with compound where the glue from the mirror (if this applies with your particular project) pulled the paper from the drywall.
Expert advice: A good mud job (applying compound) has several steps, and a common mistake is applying too much compound at one time, so be patient and give yourself a couple of days.
- Next, begin working on the floor by removing the original flooring (vinyl in this case).
- Measure the floor area and cut out the cement board (figure D).
- Apply the adhesive to the floor with a notched trowel.
- Lay the cement board in place and secure it with screws (figure E).
- Dry fit the tiles, using spacers. Measure the width you'll need to make the tiles, which will have to be cut to size, along the wall. Use a tile cutter to pre-cut all the tiles.
- After the tiles have been cut, scratch coat the area with some thinset.
- Begin laying the tiles from the center of the room over to the wall.
Expert advice: Using spacers in the grout joints of a tile layout helps to ensure consistency throughout the entire job.
- Once all the tiles have been installed, all you have to do at the end of day one of this project is to grout the tile.
In the next segment, Reveiz will install the beadboard paneling and trim.