DIY Network

Custom Poker Table Man Caves creates a poker table Vegas legend Benny Binion would love. From "Man Caves" episode DMCV-103

(Continued from page 1)

Poker Table

Five-card stud, razz, deuce to seven low-ball draw or seven-card stud just doesn't feel right played on a metal-leg card table. Larry Cannalonga and his "508" pals won't have to worry about that problem with this customized Man Caves poker table.

It even showcases the special "508" logo.

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	Host Jason Cameron created a thorough plan for the poker table construction and assembly.
	The poker table project is broken up into three stages: 1) the legs,...
	...2) the tabletop and...
	...3) the accessories.
	Figure A
	Figure B
	The end result is a beautiful table that would make a World Poker Champion jealous!

Materials:

one 3/4" x 4' x 8' oak veneer ply
one 3/4" x 4' x 8' medium density fibreboard (MDF)
one 1/2" x 4' x 8' MDF
four 4" x 4" x 8' Douglas fir or cedar (choose the straightest ones)
six 2" x 4" x 8' premium Douglas fir (choose the straightest one)
1/4" dense foam (about a 2' x 13' roll)
black vinyl (about a 2' x 10' piece)
felt (about a 3' x 7' piece)
16 1/2" x 6" zinc lag screws
16 1/2" zinc plated washers
drill
1-1/2" spade or forstner bit
speed square

The following is the Cut List for the base of the table...

4 x 4's:
2 @ 21" (vertical legs)
2 @ 20" (bottom platform)
2 @ 40" (top platform)
2 @ 56" (middle brace)
2 x 4's:
2 @ 60" (top braces)

Note: It's important that your cuts are a true 90-degree square!

1. Build the base. Pre-cut and sand all of the base pieces before you begin the assembly.

2. Marking and drilling the base pieces:
   • A. Take both bottom platforms (20") and both top platforms (40") and mark the center points. From this center point measure over 1-3/4" in each direction and draw a line across the 4 x 4 using a speed square. Do this on both sides of all four pieces.

   • B. Using a drill w/ a 1-1/2" spade or forstner bit (figure A), drill two holes (offset them) down 1" on each side of the center point, between the two lines you made. Do this on one side of each piece. Now finish drilling through each hole you made with a 1/2" drill bit.

   • C. Take the two vertical legs (21") and measure over 1-3/4" and 3-1/2" from each end. Carry these marks across with a speed square. Do this on the opposing side of both legs.

     Follow the directions from step C above for each end of one side of each leg.

3. Assemble the base:
   • A. Place each vertical leg (21") on a flat surface with the hole sides facing away from each other. Now place the two middle braces (56") in-between the legs. The end of each brace should line up between the end of each leg and the line you made. It should make a rectangle. Now clamp the pieces down and take a long punch or screw driver, place it through the center of each hole and make a mark on the ends of the brace.

   • B. Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill each mark you made on the ends of each brace. Drill into each mark about 4" to 5", being careful to keep the drill bit straight and perpendicular to the end of the brace.

   • C. Now, attach the legs to the braces using the 1/2" lag screws (figure B) with washers and some wood glue. As the joints tighten, wipe away the excess wood glue.
     
   • D. Now, attach the two bottom and two top platforms to the ends of the legs. Use the same procedure as in steps B and C above.

4. Attach the two 2 x 4 top braces (60") to the two top platforms:
   • A. Set the 2 x 4 top braces on edge across each side (perpendicular) of the top platforms. The ends of the 2 x 4's should overhang the top platforms by 4" each. Set the 2 x 4 - 8" in from the ends of the top platforms. Run a pencil along each side of the 2 x 4 to mark the top platforms and vice-versa.

   • B. Set your circular saw blade depth to 1-3/4" and out between the lines on both the top platforms and the 2 x 4's.

   • C. Now, fit the 2 x 4's into the notched top braces. Pre-drill the 2 x 4's and attach them to the top braces with 3" wood screws.

5. The base is done! Stain it and set it aside.

6. Cut the MDF support layer and oak tabletop:
   • A. Rip the 3/4" sheet of MDF to 42", then cut the length to 88". Now cut the corners off. Measure back 12" from each end and draw a line across. Now find the center of each end and measure over 8" in each direction and mark each. Now draw a line from those marks to the ends to the 12" line you made. Now, using this line, cut all four corners off with a circular saw.

   • B. Now set this cut sheet of MDF on the top of the base. The MDF should overhang the side of each 2 x 4 top brace by an 1". Measure from the top platform to the end of the MDF on each side until you until your equal. Attach the MDF to the top for the base using 1-3/4" wood screws.

   • C. Take the 3/4" sheet of oak ply and decide which side you want to be the top of the table. Measure over 14" from each corner, draw a line and cut the corners off.

   • D. Now center the oak ply on the MDF and attach it from underneath, through the MDF. Use 1-1/4" wood screws.

7. Attach the rails and felt top:
   • A. Take the 1/2" sheet of MDF and rip the width to 24", then cut the length to 6'. Now measure over 8" from each corner, draw a line and cut the corners off. Now wrap the MDF in the foam and staple it to the underside of the board. Do the same with the felt. Now you can attach this felt top to the oak in the same manner you attached the oak top to the MDF.

   • B. Now wrap the 2 x 4 rails in the foam and then the vinyl and attach them to the edge of the oak top all the way around. Screw the rails in from underneath the oak ply using 1-1/2 - 1-3/4" screws at an angle.

8. Now your ready to play cards!

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