| Hand-Rubbed Finishes |
From "Ask DIY"
episode ADI-510 |
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Q: I need advice on creating a hand-rubbed finish for a walnut banister that has been stripped. Can you help? A: (Bruce Johnson, DIY antiques refinishing expert) I'm glad to hear a question about a hand-rubbed finish, since everyone seems to be on the polyurethane bandwagon these days! The only way to duplicate the look of an antique (figure A) is with a hand-rubbed, penetrating-oil finish. One product that's often recommended is linseed oil -- I, however, am not one of those making the recommendation. The problem with linseed oil is that it never completely dries, so it's always a little sticky. The problem gets especially bad in hot weather! Instead I recommend tung oil, which gives a harder finish. The best way to apply tung oil is actually with 400-grit sandpaper (figure B). - Sand the surface and wipe away all the sawdust with a tack cloth.
- Pour a generous amount of tung oil directly onto the surface.
- Use the sandpaper to rub the oil all over the wood. It will create a fine sawdust, which will fill in the wood's pores for a smooth finish.
- Use a rag to wipe off the excess oil. The oil will harden inside the wood.
- You may have to repeat this process two or three times, but it will be worth it.
Tip: An antique's finish can be refreshed with tung oil. Apply with a rag or (if the wood feels rough) a piece of 400-grit sandpaper. More questions for Bruce: Q: Should I throw out rusty nails? A: I never throw anything away -- even rusty nails! Here are a couple of things you can do with them: - Save them in case you ever have to repair an old piece of furniture and need nails that blend in.
- Place them in a jar and add ordinary household vinegar. The chemical reaction between the vinegar and the nail will produce a great water-based stain. The silver-gray color will look especially good on oak.
Q: My dining-room table has a gray mark from a hot dish I left on the table. How do I repair it? A: The rule of thumb is that if you have a white or gray mark, it means moisture is trapped beneath the finish. A black mark means the moisture has penetrated all the way into the wood -- that's the more difficult kind of mark to remove. To remove the gray mark, use 400-grit sandpaper, wet with lemon oil or mineral oil, and give the table a light sanding. Keep the sandpaper saturated with oil so it doesn't mar the table, and you should be able to buff the mark out of the wood. Q: I'm trying my hand at wood turning. I've been using pine without success. What is a good wood for a beginner to use? A: Hard maple is best -- it has a good grain and won't chip on you.
RESOURCES :
Furniture Repair & Refinishing
Model: 1580110061
Author: Brian D. Hingley
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