DIY Network

Grafting and Care An expert explains grafting, fertilization, irrigation and pruning of Asian pears. From "Fresh From the Orchard" episode DFFO-109

On a trip to local orchard, Kelly Givens talks to Asian pear expert Lester Davis, who demonstrates grafting, the process by which one variety of pear tree is implanted onto the rootstock of a different variety. Next they discuss how best to fertilize and irrigate Asian pears, and Davis shows how to prune off pesky watersprouts that can zap energy from otherwise healthy trees.

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Grafted Trees

Figure A

When you plant pears, you might notice a bumpy area a few inches up on the trunk of the tree. That's because almost all pear trees are grafted (or budded). Grafted trees consist of two parts: the scion (the upper part) and the rootstock (figure A). The scion determines the variety (Korean Giant, Shinko, etc.); the rootstock determines whether the tree will be standard, dwarf or semidwarf. The rootstock also plays an important role in the tree's cold-hardiness, disease resistance, productivity and longevity.

Protecting Pears From Late Frosts

Pears bloom fairly early, so they may be subject to spring frost damage, which could wipe out your harvest for a year. To protect against a frost that's predicted after fruit-bud set, you can put lightweight plastic or fabric over the tree to form a tent and add a small heat source such as a string of holiday lights or a light bulb on a long extension cord under the tent. For safety's sake, use only UL-approved outdoor lighting and extension cords, and make sure that the light source does not touch the fabric and isn't too close to the tree trunk or branch, where it might burn.

You can also plan ahead by planting trees on higher ground since frost settles in low-lying areas. Sometimes an elevation difference of only 3' can change the temperature by 5 degrees F.

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