| Overview of Blueberries |
| Hints to help you have a sweet crop of blueberries |
From "Fresh From the Orchard" episode DFFO-107 |
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(Continued from page )
Kelly plants two rabbiteye blueberries, Premiere and Climax.
Growing BasicsBlueberries can grow and produce fruit for 30 or 40 years, so it pays to get the soil prepared correctly right from the start. Blueberries' primary requirement is well-drained, acidic soils with lots of organic matter. Soil pH levels should be between 4.0 and 5.5 for good berry production, so a pH test is a must (figure A). You can test the soil with a pH meter or by sending a soil sample to your local cooperative extension service. If the soil isn't already loose and crumbly (figure B), amend it with organic soil amendments. To do so, add a 2" layer of composted cow manure or other compost and a 2" layer of finely ground pine bark on top of the soil; work both in well (figure C). Blueberries have shallow but far-reaching roots, so make the amended area wide instead of deep. As a rule of thumb, aim to amend a 3'- to 4'-square area for each blueberry shrub you plant.
Blueberries produce the most fruit in full sun, but even shrubs in partial shade will produce a decent crop.Planting You can plant either bare-root or containerized blueberries. Bare-rooted shrubs should be planted before they break dormancy in early spring; blueberries growing in containers can be planted any time of the year. To plant a containerized shrub, dig a hole deep enough for the rootball to sit about 1" above the soil line. Gently loosen the roots around the rootball (figure D); then place the shrub in the hole. Backfill three-quarters of the way and pour a gallon or two of water over the roots to get rid of any air pockets (figure E); then finish filling the hole and water again. After planting, mulch around the base of the blueberries to give the bed a finished look and help keep weeds out and moisture in.
Care of Young PlantsFor the first two years after planting or transplanting a blueberry shrub, it's important to remove the flowers so that it will not fruit. You can remove the blossoms by hand or by lightly tip-pruning with hand pruners. If you allow the shrub to flower and fruit when it should be getting established, it won't put out enough leaves or roots and may die of stress. Although it's frustrating to wait three years to begin harvesting your blueberries, it's worth the wait. Beginning the third year, your blueberry shrubs will fruit prolifically for years and years to come with little, if any, care.
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