GARDENING Index
Diseases & Weeds
Flowers
Fruits & Vegetables
Maintenance
Organic
Planting, Transplanting & Harvesting
Tomatoes
Other

General Information
Container Gardening
Insects & Pests
Kids Gardening
Lawns & Landscaping
Plants & Foliage
Public Gardens
Seasons & Zones
Services & Associations
Shrubs & Trees
Soil & Water
Structures & Ornaments
Tools
Water Gardening
Wildlife

BEST OF GARDENING
DIY Lawn Care
Lawn Selections
Weekend Projects

SPONSOR LINKS

  • Supply Lines, Spigots and Timers
  • Supply Lines, Spigots and Timers
    From "Fresh from the Garden"
    episode DFFG-120


    Ready to begin installing an irrigation system in your own yard? Just follow these simple steps....

    advertisement


    PHOTO

    First install a long run of pipes down the center garden trench.
    PHOTO

    Using a saw, cut the main supply lines and "T" off to the individual beds.
    PHOTO

    Glue each "T" in place in the spot directly in front of the bed.
    PHOTO

    Above-ground pipes should be "rated for sunlight," or able to withstand the elements. Recognize it by its grey color ....
    PHOTO

    It doesn't get any easier than this: just wind soaker hoses around under the plants and they're ready to go!

    • The first step in taking the water from the control area and out to the beds is to lay a long run of pipes down the center garden trench. Run one supply line for the left side of the bed, one for the right side and one for another hose spigot at the far end of the garden.

    • Using a saw, cut the main supply lines and "T" off to the individual beds. Glue each "T" in place in the spot directly in front of the bed. Lay the pipes in the trench and bring them up to the outside edge of the raised bed. Putting the spigots just outside the wooden frame will keep them safe each time you clean up and replant the beds.

    • To bring the pipe back above ground level, use a 90-degree angle. Attach a different type of PVC that will come up out of the ground. Choose pipe that is rated for sunlight, meaning it won’t break down out in the elements. The grey color makes it easy to tell apart from the other pipes.

    • At the top of the bed pipes attach a spigot connection. Use a female adapter that converts from PVC to metal. This way you can use standard hoses with metal fittings. The spigot will work with soaker hoses, regular water hoses and misting hoses.

    • When you have a spigot at each bed, you can turn off the water to each individual bed. If a bed is empty, you won’t waste water having it run there. Now you have 3 places to control water to the garden: at the source, at the shut-off valve and at the bed. This gives you a lot of flexibility, especially since garden beds are planted, dug up and then replanted so often.

    • Attach the soaker hoses. Use standard 25-foot long soaker hoses. Each hose has a connector at both ends, one end goes to the spigot and the other has a cap. If you need more than 1 hose per bed you can unscrew the end cap and attach another hose to the end. Soaker hoses are great because they just wind around under the plants, keeping the leaves dry.

    • Once all of the hoses are in place, install a spigot at the far end of the garden. The spigot gets buried underground just like the first one at the front of the garden. This gives you room to run a hose out to other beds when you need it.

    • Cover all of the trenches with dirt and tamp them down.

    • Install timers atop the irrigation system.

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: