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With most of the trellis complete, now it's time to finish the structure and start getting the tomato plants in the ground:
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 Attach four galvanized cord cleats, evenly spaced, along the top support timber: two each on either side of the center support. They should be attached vertically, not horizontally, to make them more secure.
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 To determine the size of the hole you'll need to dig, measure the height of the plant from the top to the bottom of the pot. Subtract 4": that's how deep your plant should be planted.
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 To secure tomato plants to the stakes, use strips of old pantyhose, which are airy, strong and flexible, so they won't hold moisture or cut into the plant stem.
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- To finish off the trellis install the 4 cord cleats evenly spaced along the top support timber, 2 each on either side of the center support. They should be attached vertically, not horizontally to make them more secure. Use galvanized 1-inch screws instead of the screws that came with the cleats. Galvanized screws won't rust like untreated metal.
- To figure out the size of the hole you'll need for planting, start by measuring the height of your plant from the top to the bottom of the pot. Subtract 4 inches and that is how deep your plant will be set down into the ground. Pull off any leaves or stems below the top 4 inches of your tomato plant. Tomatoes have an unusual ability to grow roots from their stems, so planting them deeply will make them sturdier.
- Add a small handful of dolomitic limestone to each hole. The limestone is calcium that's easily absorbed by tomatoes. This will help protect the plants from blossom end rot, a common tomato disease. Mix in the dirt well and put the tomatoes in the holes. Gently tamp the dirt around each plant.
- For the tomato supports, use a 7' piece of twine. The braid makes it strong and it's smooth enough that it won't cut into the tomato vines. To attach the twine, tie a very loose loop around the base of the plant and then knot it. Be sure you tie it loosely so the plant has room to grow. Carefully wind the twine up the stem of the plant so that it emerges straight out the top. Gently pull the twine up and wrap it around the cleat. Wrap it with several figure 8's to keep it securely in place. With the stake method you want to place your stake first and then plant as close as you can to the stake to prevent root damage. Then thread the twine through the hole on the stake, tie a knot, and wrap the twine around the cleat.
- For bush or determinate type tomatoes you don't need a trellis, but staking makes them easier to harvest. Along with the tomato plant, add a long wooden stake to each hole. Push the stake at least a foot into the ground. Planting the stakes at the same time as the tomato is important for 2 reasons. First, if you add the stake later you could damage the tomato roots. And second because the early roots will wrap around the stake making the stake and the tomato one sturdy unit. Tamp down the stake and plant carefully.
- To secure the plants to the stakes, use strips of old hose. Hoses are airy, strong and flexible so they won't hold moisture or cut into the plant stem. Loosely loop the hose around the stake and tie a knot around it and the tomato plant's main stem. You'll need to continue tying the stem to the stake as it grows.
- Mulching tomatoes is critical to their health. The mulch acts as a barrier between the plant and soil borne diseases such as fusarium wilt. Start by putting 2-3 layers of newspapers around the plants and then top-dress them with 2 inches of pine straw mulch. Don't let the mulch or the newspaper butt directly up against the plant or it could rot the tomato stem.
- To give your tomatoes a boost and keep them from getting stressed from being transplanted, water them in with liquid fertilizer. An all-purpose mix is fine for new seedlings. Follow the directions on the box and give each plant about 1 gallon of the mixture. New plants need to be watered every day for the first few weeks. Use the liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks.
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