DIY Network

Types and Seed-Starting Tips Types and Seed-Starting Tips From "Fresh from the Garden" episode DFFG-107

Defnining a "squash" can actually be quite confusing: squashes technically include zucchini and pumpkins as well as winter and summer squash. Though they're all cultivated the same way, they look quite different and are grown and used in slightly different ways. Read on to learn the differences between the types -- and discover how you can grow every type successfully!

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	In cooler regions, start plants indoors three weeks before the last frost date.
	Once the seedlings reach 2" tall, thin them with scissors to one plant per pot.
	To transplant seedlings, dig a hole to the same depth as the peat pots. Set four seedlings, pot and all, in hills on the raised beds about 3' apart.
	Crowded plants produce less fruit and are more likely to develop diseases.
	For large, deep-rooted plants, use scissors or bypass pruning shears to cut the stems off at the soil line.

Materials:

Squash seeds
Pruning shears
Plastic bags
Misting nozzle
Yellow dish or pan
Cloth
4-inch peat pots
Pumpkin seeds
Soil thermometer
Row covers
Glue boards
Bleach
Grow lights
Nail file
Garden hoe
Artist's brush
Pantyhose
Newspaper
Fertilizer
Glass jar
Garden hose
Gardening gloves

• One of the first things to know about squash is that there are two types: summer and winter. The main difference between the two is that winter squashes have hard, thick rinds that will help them store for long periods of time.

• In cooler regions, you can start plants indoors three weeks before the last frost date. You don't want to start plants any earlier than this because older plants sometimes will not transplant well. To start the winter squash indoors, put 2 seeds, 1- inch deep into 4-inch peat pots and water them until the soil was moist. You need to maintain the seeds at a constant temperature of 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit for best germination. Be sure to use grow lights to maintain a constant temperature.

• Once the seedlings reach 2 inches tall, thin the plants with scissors to one plant per pot. Now before you plant your seedlings outdoors, you should also harden off the seedlings. Hardening off means helping the seedling to gradually acclimate to the outdoors. You want to place seedlings outside during the day under shrubs or trees when the temperatures are above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Don't forget to bring the seedlings in at night and after 5 to 7 days of hardening off, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting outside.

• Winter squash needs a sunny, open site for three months or more of frost-free growing time. They require plenty of room for their long, wandering vines. Squash likes a soil that is rich in organic matter, both for nutrients and a good supply of moisture.

• To grow a planting of winter squash the soil should be fertilized with a 10-10-10 formula, meaning there are added amendments of 10% of each need element -- nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Using a garden fork you turn the fertilizer into the soil at least 12 inches deep. Next, insert a soil thermometer into the ground to make certain the temperature is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

• To transplant seedlings, you dig a hole to the same depth as the peat pots. Set four seedlings, pot and all, in hills on the raised beds about 3 feet apart. Try not to crush the peat pots so you don't disturb the plant roots as you transplant the seedlings. Pack soil around the seedlings and then lightly water the plants. Also be sure the plants are placed in the hills side by side instead of one long row. This process will help the pollination of the flowers and the fruiting as the pollen passes from flower to flower.

• Once the seedlings have been up about one week, be sure to thin to the two strongest plants per hill. Crowded plants produce less fruit and are more likely to develop diseases. If there is a danger of disturbing the other seedlings, just pinch off the extras instead of pulling them out. For large deep-rooted plants, you can use scissors or bypass pruning shears to cut the stems off at the soil line.
  

  ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:
  	Types and Seed-Starting Tips
  	Presto -- Pumpkins!
  	Unwanted Invaders, Harvesting How-To
  	Winning the Weed War