It's hard to imagine a garden without at least one rose, but which one? There are more than three dozen classes to choose from, including hybrid teas, grandifloras, polyanthas, climbers, floribundas, shrubs and miniature roses (and those are just the modern roses). For decades the most popular class has been the hybrid tea. These roses typically grow 3' to 5' tall and flower intermittently, producing either individual blooms or flower clusters on long stems. Despite their beauty, hybrid teas are one of the most disease-prone kinds of roses. Polyanthas are shorter, more compact plants that produce smaller but more abundant flowers. They are very hardy and easy to grow. The floribunda class began from a cross between a hybrid tea and a polyantha. These compact plants tend to produce clusters of flowers on each stem and to bloom all summer long -- a trait that has made them tremendously popular. Grandifloras are tall bushes up to 6' or more in height that produce clusters of hybrid-tea-like flowers on long stems. Climbing roses don't actually climb: they produce long canes that can be attached to walls, fences or trellis. Most climbers bloom repeatedly; ramblers, on the other hand, bloom once a year. Miniatures are pint-sized roses, with smaller blooms, foliage and prickles (thorns). They produce a profusion of flowers all summer long. These roses do extremely well in containers. Standards, or "tree" roses, are usually hybrid teas, floribundas or grandifloras that have been grafted to a single treelike stem to create a formal look. They are often planted in containers. The shrub group includes four classes: hybrid rugosas, kordesiis, hybrid musks and shrubs. Hybrid rugosas, one of the most popular classes, are tough, generally disease-free plants that will thrive almost anywhere. They tolerate a variety of soil and climate conditions, although they do not appreciate extreme heat. If you've had problems in the past with roses, find a rugosa. They're virtually trouble free. The key to growing healthy roses of any kind is to provide a proper home for them. All roses need a site that gets at least five to six hours of sun per day and has rich soil with good drainage. If you have the sun but not the soil, you can always amend with organic matter and sharp sand. Container-grown roses can be planted in the ground as soon as they arrive at garden centers or nurseries, typically in late spring. To plant them, dig a hole twice the diameter of the root ball, and mix one-half of the native soil with compost or peat moss (avoid peat if your soil is already acidic). Then remove the rose from the pot and plant it in the hole at the same depth as it was originally planted in its container (unless the bud union is exposed and you'd like to plant it below ground in order to provide more protection from winter cold). Fill the hole with soil, water well, and lay down a layer of mulch to prevent moisture loss and reduce weed growth. Containerized roses can also be planted in fall, an advantage in cold climates. That gives the roots a chance to become established before winter weather sets in. Bare-root roses are plants that have been grown in fields, then harvested and kept in temperature-controlled cold storage with no soil around their roots. They are shipped in spring while in a dormant state. Once you receive bare-root roses, keep the roots moist until you can plant. Soak the roots for several hours before planting. In mild winter areas, where winter temperatures remain above 10 degrees Fahrenheit, plant bare-root roses in February. In cold climates, plant bare-root stock in early spring as soon as you can work the soil. To plant bare-root roses, dig a hole 18" deep and as wide or wider in a site that will receive at least five to six hours of sun per day during the summer. Amend the soil if necessary. Build a cone-shaped mound of soil in the bottom of the planting hole, and test to see that the depth will be correct, with the bud union above or below the soil level, depending on your climate. (Gardeners in mild climates prefer to keep the bud union above or just at soil level; those in Zones 6 and below often set the bud union 1" to 2" or more below the surface for protection against winter cold.) Spread the roots out evenly over the cone, and fill in the hole, checking to make sure the planting depth is correct, and water well. Mulch the surrounding soil. Don't use fertilizer until you begin to see new growth. That way you will be sure that the plant has settled into its new site. Roses have a reputation for proneness to pests and diseases. For most rose ailments, prevention is the best cure. Many insect problems can be prevented with routine applications of insecticidal soap -- some pests (e.g., aphids and spider mites) can be subdued with a jet of water from a hose-end wand. Fungus diseases such as blackspot, rust and powdery mildew can be controlled with regular treatments of fungicides. If you prefer organic methods of gardening, some simple "housecleaning" practices can help control fungus diseases. One is keeping your rose bed neat and free of fallen debris. Fungus spores overwinter in the debris on the surface of the soil, so removing it makes good sense. You can also remove infected leaves by hand as you notice them on walks through the garden. Many gardeners also use a low-toxicity homemade fungicide studied at Cornell University in the 1980s. It is very effective against powdery mildew but less effective against blackspot. The recipe is 2 1/2 tablespoons of light horticultural oil and 3 teaspoons baking soda per gallon of water. Mix and apply to foliage every seven to 10 days, using a pump-up sprayer. One other organic method is to dust rose foliage with sulfur powder.
RESOURCES :
For tools from the Gardener's Supply Co.
Gardener's Supply Company
Burlington, VT 05401-2850
Fax: 800-551-6712 -or- 80
Email: info@gardeners.com
Website: www.gardeners.com
For the book A Year of Roses
for the book Climbing Roses
Macmillan / Alpha Books
Website: www.macmillan.com
The American Rose Society
The American Rose Society provides information on rose care, varieties and judging and contacts for local rose societies.
PO Box 30,000
Shreveport, LA 71130-0030
Phone: 318-938-5402
Fax 318-938-5405
E-mail: ars@ars-hg.org
Web site: www.ars.org
For the book Burpee Basics: Roses
Macmillan / Alpha Books
Website: www.macmillan.com
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