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  • Installing Laminate Flooring, Part 2
  • From "DIY Home Repair & Remodeling"
    episode DIR-105
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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

    Before you install it, store the laminate flooring inside your house to acclimate it to room temperature. This will help prevent the flooring from accumulating moisture, and it will reduce expansion and contraction during installation.

    Check for damage on each plank before installing it. Individual planks can be very difficult to remove after they're set in place.

    Your beginning wall (the wall where you start installing the new floor) should be more visible than your ending wall. Plan your installation so that any irregularities in the ending wall will be hidden by appliances or furniture.

    Plan your installation so that the flooring helps emphasize the focal point of the room.

    The planks along the edges should be at least 2" wide. Check your measurements before you begin to make sure the planks along your ending wall won't be too narrow.

    1. Dry fit the first three rows of planks. If your beginning wall is uneven or has contours, you'll need to trace a pattern in order to cut the laminate flooring to size (figure A). This will help keep the rest of the floor square. If your beginning wall isn't parallel to your ending wall, don't worry; you can make a few cuts to compensate. When you're finished, the irregularity probably won't show.
    2. When you're ready to install the floor, apply glue to the edges of each plank (figure B). Glue all the way along the long and short edges. Slide the plank into position, and use a tapping block to make the joints as tight as possible. Don't strike the tongue of the plank with the hammer; you could damage it. Install the first three rows first, and allow them to dry for an hour before you install the remaining planks.
    3. When you get to the end of a run and need to make a cut, you may be able to use a scrap piece of flooring. If you have to cut an irregular angle, measure the short and long sides and the point at which the angle begins. Transfer the measurements to the back of the plank, and use a saber saw to make the cuts.
    4. Stagger the joints within each run so that they are at least 8" away from the joints of the preceding run.
    5. As you get to the ends of the runs, use a pry bar to tighten the joints (figure C). You can also use a strap clamp (figure D) to hold the planks in place as the glue dries.


    RESOURCES :
    Perstorp Flooring
    Perstorp Flooring
    Garner, NC 27529
    Phone: 919-773-600
    Fax: 919-773-5895
    Email: pergomail@casupport.com
    Website: www.pergo.com/

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