DIY Network

Engine Replacement, Part 7 -- Transfer of Parts From "Weekend Mechanic" episode WKM-206

advertisement

Bruce installs the water-pump and pump-housing on the new engine. Figure V Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I Figure J Figure K Figure L Figure M Figure N Figure O Figure P

Transfer of Parts

With the reusable parts all removed from the old engine, and cleaned and prepped, work can now begin transferring them onto the new engine. To facilitate this part of the process, the old engine has been removed from the engine stand, and the new (remanufactured) engine put in its place (figure A).

Note: Parts can be cleaned with a solvent such as brake cleaner. We also opted to have some of the reusable parts painted.

Important: Included below are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of replacement engine and parts you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools and when working beneath a vehicle.

• The next part to be installed on the new engine is the exhaust- and intake-manifold assembly. First, place the manifold gasket onto the engine. This gasket goes on dry (figure B).

• Carefully lift and position the manifold assembly on top of the gasket, using caution not to damage the gasket. Once it's sitting flush, bolt the assembly in position (figure C).

• Install new gaskets on the valve-cover (figure D). On our car, four gaskets were required.

• Apply sealant to the edge of the valve-cover (figure E), paying special attention to the corners where the gaskets will meet. Allow the gaskets and sealant to set up for a short while before installing the valve-cover.

• Install the oil deflector (figure F), making certain that it's firmly in place. This part can only be installed oriented in the correct way, as it's slotted to fit over the head bolts.

• Place some sealant on the valve-cover gasket, spreading it evenly. Install the metal strips removed earlier, then install the valve-cover gasket and bolt it down to proper torque specs.

• Next, we installed our replacement coolant-temperature sensor since the one on our old engine had stripped threads. The new sensor cost about $24, and came with thread sealant already applied to the threads. At the same time, we attached the coolant line assembly (figure G). It's advisable to replace hose clamps when replacing or installing hoses.

• Next, the new thermostat and the thermostat housing are installed. Apply some sealant to the thermostat gasket before installation. Install so that the thermostat sensor is pointed toward the engine.

• Since our dipstick tube was damaged earlier, a replacement is installed in the block (figure H). Some sealant is applied on the end of the tube before installation. The top part of the dipstick is held in place by a stud that fits through the thermostat housing.

• Install the fuel-pump block-off plate that was removed earlier. Apply some sealant to the new gasket on the plate.

• Next, install the water-pump and associated housing. As standard maintenance, we replaced the water pump with a new one, at a cost of about $40. After applying sealant to the mating surfaces on the housing, the water-pump and housing are installed together onto the engine block (figure I). Three bolts at the top, and a single long bolt at the bottom hold the assembly in place. Sealant is placed on the threads of all bolts before installation.

• Install the motor-mount and alternator/air-conditioner bracket in the locations corresponding to where they were installed on the old engine (figure J).

• Install the foam in the motor mount to prevent debris from entering the timing-belt area.

• Install the timing-belt cover (figure K), using caution not to over-tighten the bolts and crack the plastic cover.

• Although a new oil-pump came already installed on the new engine, the oil-pump pickup must be installed. This part (figure L) is installed with an O-ring, but without sealant.

• Apply sealant to the engine surface where the oil-pan will be installed (figure M).

• Once you've applied sealant, install the oil-pan gasket, and seat the oil-pan seals securely into their grooves (figure N). Apply sealant on top of the gasket, and spread it evenly.

• With the sealant applied, and gaskets and seals in place, install the oil pan (figure O) and bolt it down securely.

  Important: When installing the oil pan, make sure that the mating surfaces are clean. Otherwise, you'll end up with an oil leak.

• Replace the plate and flywheel, and tighten down the flywheel bolts to proper torque specs (figure P). Your service manual will provide torque specs and installation procedures.

In the segment that follows, the remanufactured engine -- complete with newly installed parts -- is installed back in the vehicle.

RESOURCES :

The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
Author: Dan Ramsey
ISBN: 0028635833
Alpha Books

How Cars Work
Author: Tom Newton
ISBN: 0966862309
Publisher: Black Apple Press

Auto Repair for Dummies
Author: Deanna Sclar
ISBN: 0764550896