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  • Kitchen: Coming Up with a Plan and Getting Started
  • From "DIY Lighting Design"
    episode DLTD-103


    In this segment, host Denise Dillon and guest Jeff Hatala, a construction contractor, come up with a plan for installing the lights, and then the work begins.

    • Hatala took the designer's (Bette Raburn) recommendations and put them down on paper and conferred with the homeowners to make sure they were okay with where everything would be. This had to happen before the electricians could get started with the project.

    Getting Started

    1. First, you'll want to protect the floors so lay down some protective covering.

    2. Next, be sure to cut the power off at the source.

    3. The first lights to be installed are the under-cabinet "slim" lights (figure A). These lights will be hardwired, which involves mounting a junction box inside the cabinet, drilling a hole through the bottom of the cabinet (figure B) for the plug to pass through and running the wire into the cabinet from a nearby switch (figure C). A special metal cover is also placed over the wires to protect them.

    4. Plunge the wires in the junction box and pop on the cover.

    5. Attach the brackets for the lights and snap them in place underneath the cabinets.

    6. To install the sconces for both sides of the sink, first measure the exact location for the sconces.
      Photo

      Figure A

      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C


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    7. Then use a hole saw (figure D) to cut the opening for the remodel box, which isn't just necessary but smart.

      Note: A common mistake a lot of homeowners make is to take the bracket (figure E) and mount it directly onto the side of the cabinet and that's dangerous -- potential for fire if the wires were to spark!

    8. After connecting the wires, mount the bracket, tuck everything into place and the sconce is ready to install.

    9. Rope lighting will lighten the dark spots over the cabinets, and they are the easiest to install. Simply plug in the lights and place on top of the cabinet where you want them.

    10. The old light above the bar peninsula and dining area is being replaced with three pendant lights. The lights were laid on the bar first in order to distribute them evenly (figure F).

    11. The installation of the pendants lights is relatively easy. Since the wiring is already in place from the previous light, wires for the three pendants are fun from that same source.
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E

      Photo

      Figure F


    12. The bracket is screwed into the ceiling (figure G), the wires are fastened together and tucked inside, and then the canopy is attached. The same is done for all three pendants. Slide the connectors over the light cable, which simply screws into the canopy (figure H). The process is repeated for the remaining two pendants, and they're ready for the light bulbs, which are quartz bulbs that you "don't" want to touch, especially the end because the oil from your skin can make the bulb go bad.

    13. Plug in the bulbs -- and there's even a frosted globe (figure I) that goes over to diffuse the light.
      Photo

      Figure G

      Photo

      Figure H

      Photo

      Figure I


    14. Another smaller pendant light will go above the kitchen office area. Because the ceiling slants at this point, a plumb bob (figure J) had to be used to know where to install the light.

    15. Repeat the pendant installation process for the office light.

    16. Next, it's time to install the lighting above the refrigerator. Originally a puck light was going to be used, but the homeowners decided to go with halogen light because it puts out more light. The halogens will mount flush into the top of the cabinet and plug into a transformer that plugs into a switched outlet.

    17. The last light to be installed is the eyeball lamp (figure K), which will highlight the prints on the wall and illuminate the area.

    18. Finally, the old wood cabinet door fronts are being replaced with glass. Be sure to choose glass that doesn't weigh more than the door itself. For this particular project, a 1/16" glass was chosen. Just slide the glass in and then use an industrial-grade silicone. Just run four small beads around it to hold the glass in place. Wait 24 hours for the silicone to set.

    19. Once the sealant is set, putting the doors back in place (figure L) is just a matter of turning a couple of screws.

    In the next segment, we have an even bigger project involving glass.
    Photo

    Figure J

    Photo

    Figure K

    Photo

    Figure L



    RESOURCES :

    Miscellaneous Lighting Products for Kitchen

    4" recessed can hole saw
    SKU: 530-814

    Glass cut for cabinet doors and shelf

    Sconces
    USE mini-uplighter wall sconce
    SKU: 659-668 (Expo)

    Wall brackets
    SKU: 703-358 (Expo)

    Lutron Diva dimmer with toggle switch
    Incandescent single pole 600-watts
    SKU: 325-318

    Pendant over desk
    LBL amber with chrome pendant
    SKU: 490-443 (Expo)

    Eyeball recessed can
    Halo 4" non-IC remodel housing
    SKU: 523-138

    Halo spot light 40-watts R-16
    SKU: 352-683

    White mini-eyeball trim
    SKU: 797-027

    Rope lighting
    Hampton Bay rope lighting kit
    12'
    SKU: 363-150

    Hampton Bay mounting clips
    SKU: 405-292

    Garden window
    American Craftsman multipurpose garden window
    9000 series
    SKU: 481-139

    Available at Home Depot stores

    Hera Lighting Products

    Cabinet left of sink
    ES20WW/P (Hera 20" SlimLite with a built in ballast and a warm white fluorescent lamp)
    SHWC/XL (Hera SlimLite Hardwire Connector / Box)
    SCC12/XL (Hera 12" SlimLite connecting cable for plug and play)

    Cabinet right of sink
    ES13WW/P (Two Hera 13" SlimLites, each including built in ballast and a warm white fluorescent lamp)
    SHWC/XL (Hera SlimLite Hardwire Connector / Box)
    SCC12/XL (Hera 12" SlimLite connecting cable for easy plug and play connection)
    SCC6/XL (Hera 6" SlimLite connecting cable for easy plug and play connection)

    Cabinet with Glass Front and Glass Shelves
    EH2420CH (Two Hera recessed halogen spots with MR11 lamps)
    2NV6500 (Hera 20" connecting cables to connect spotlights to the transformer)
    UC-60FT (Hera 60-watt premium electronic transformer with terminal block for easy plug and play)

    In Cabinet Lights (Hera Puck lights used)
    EH2420CH (Two Hera recessed halogen spots with MR11 lamps)
    2NV6500 (20" connecting cables to connect spotlights to the transformer)
    UC-60FT (60-watts premium electronic transformer with terminal block for easy plug and play)

    Hera Lighting, L.P.
    Websites: www.heralighting.com or www.wwhardware.com


    GUESTS :

    Bette Raburn
    3029 Kingston Ct.
    Norcross GA 30071
    Phone: 770-242-2784
    E-mail: interiormotive@bellsouth.net
    Website: theinteriormotive.com

    Jeff Hatala
    Owner
    Jeff Hatala Construction
    Norcross, GA
    Phone: 770-449-9839
    E-mail: Jeffhatala@comcast.net

    Steve Brown
    Pat Murphy Electric, Inc.
    Atlanta, GA
    Phone: 404-577-4191
    Website: www.patmurphyelectric.com

    Clint Clackum
    Chattahoochee Glass
    Website: www.chattahoocheeglass.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:


  • Gutter Repair
  • Landscaping Basics
  • Flooring
  • UV Air Sanitizer
  • Replacement Windows
  • Planter, Self-Watering
  • Hand-Painted Glasses
  • Choose Washer/Dryer
  • Backsplash Installation
  • Hand-Painted Bowls
  • Prepare for Vacation
  • Maintain Garage Door
  • Disinfect Bathroom
  • Romance Kit
  • Curb Appeal
  • Transport Equipment
  • Installing Undermount
  • Holiday Decorating
  • Family Scrapbook
  • Ice Candle
  • Selecting Doors
  • Spark Plug, Changing
  • Maintain Cabinets
  • Front Door Facelift
  • Change Windowpane