DIY Network

Round Stone Planting Wall: Setting First Row of Stone From "Rock Solid" episode DROC-111

With the footing set, it's time to start constructing the wall. (Instructions for completing the wall, below.)

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	Before: rustic railroad ties are unattractive -- and do nothing to show off the garden.
	After: a handsome curved stone wall captures the spirit of New England and spruces up the space!

Materials:

Wood stakes
Landscaping rake
Shovel
Mud shovel
Sledge hammer (optional: pick hammer)
Pick hammer
Crowbar
Stone hammer
Chipping hammer
Chisel
Trowel
Safety glasses
String
Line or marker spray paint
Paint brushes
Levels - bullet, 2' and 4'
Jointers
Hand brush
5 gallon buckets
Pruning shears
Wooden stakes
Measuring tape
Wheelbarrow
Mixing hoe
Mortar mixer (rented)
Gravel mix concrete
Rebar
Palletized round fieldstone (a mix of small and medium pallets)
Mason sand
Mortar (any type)
Type II Portland Cement
3/4" crushed stone

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Mixed mortar
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

1. Have stone delivered. Dean's Tip: Consider the delivery of palletized stone. Palletized stone is the best stone that has been selected for you by the quarry. Take measurements to the quarry to figure out how much material you'll need for your project. (In this project, Dean and Derek have two tons delivered, but will need about four tons total.) Before opening up the pallets, be sure to mix them up (figure A) before bringing to your wall. Here, small and medium round will be used. When sorting the stone, separate stones into piles placed 12-24" away from the perimeter of the wall, allowing room for wheelbarrow access. While sorting, set aside nice capstones that feature length, a smooth top and a smooth face.

2. With stones sorted, mix mortar for the wall. The mortar will secure the stones. For a project of this size, Derek and Dean suggest the rental of a mortar mixer. The two have also developed a formula for mortar mixture (all materials can be purchased at your local quarry): for every batch, use a full bag of cement; a half bag of mortar; 30 shovels of mason sand; and about two 5-gallon buckets of water. Start the mortar mixer, add shovels of sand, then add cement (figure B), mortar and water. Mix until the mortar has a consistency slightly less creamy that peanut butter. Bang the sides of the mixer to make sure none of the cement mixture sticks to the sides. Pour the mortar into the wheelbarrow and roll to your work area.

3. The first stone of the wall should have a smooth face. Set the first stone at the end of the wall, atop the mortar. If stone wobbles, secure the stone with more mortar, or a smaller "shim" stone. Continue setting stone. As you set stone, remember to incorporate a mixture of sizes to create visual interest. Build up the first row (figure C), checking every few feet to ensure the stone faces match the curve of your wall. Adjust as necessary.

4. The area behind the face or front row of stone can be filled with junk masonry -- it won’t show once a cap is placed on the wall. The junk area is a great place to get rid of old cinderblocks, brick, cement, or junk stone you might have lying around your property. Bust up larger pieces, set them in mortar, and continue to add junk as you build up stonework height.

5. Every five feet or so, build a natural weep hole (figure D). Weep holes prevent water from sitting and freezing behind the wall in winter. Build a weep hole behind two face stones that have no mortar between them, then fill the area from the back of those stones to the planting bed with junk or broken up stone without any mortar in a beehive shape. Build up mortar on the sides of this "beehive," throw in 3/4" crushed stone in the joints between the larger junk stone and on top of the junk until no more settles into the cracks. Cover the top of the beehive with mortar.

6. Reshape surrounding bushes and shrubs after the wall's shape is finalized. Use pruning shears to create a complementary new shape.

7. Once the first row of stone is set, build up the area that will be the highest point of the wall (figure E). For this project, the highest point of the wall is the area with the lowest grade --the center of the wall. You should establish the height of the wall up to the capstone in this section of the wall.