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  • Concrete Countertop: Pouring Mold
  • From "Rock Solid"
    episode DROC-107


    Continuing on with the concrete countertop, it's time to actually pour the mold.

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    PHOTO

    Dean and Derek are in sunny Arizona...
    PHOTO

    to add the "wow" factor to kitchen countertops.
    PHOTO

    The duo meet up with concrete specialist Hannah Black.
    PHOTO

    Together, they create concrete countertops that...
    PHOTO

    are sure to impress!
    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    PHOTO

    Figure E
    PHOTO

    Figure F
    PHOTO

    Figure G
    PHOTO

    Figure H
    PHOTO

    Figure I
    Materials:

    Making Template

    Strips of thin veneer wood such as lauan or doorskin
    Glue gun
    Tape measure
    Permanent marker
    Utility knife
    Square
    Hand stapler

    Creating Countertop Mold

    Countertop templates
    3/4 inch melamine
    Large work table
    Pencil
    Table saw (with sharp new blade)
    Screw gun with 1/8 inch drill bit
    Screws
    Blue painter's tape
    100% silicone caulk
    Caulk gun
    Clean rags
    Denatured alcohol or acetone
    Protective gloves

    Pouring Mold

    Quikrete Non-Shrink Precision Grout
    Concrete color (optional)
    Concrete mixer (can be rented)
    Measuring buckets
    5 gal. buckets
    2 in. spatula
    Steel mesh or 3/4 in. rebar
    Steel wire
    Bolt cutters
    Steel wool
    Acetone
    Screws (can be same used for fastening mold)
    Trowels
    Rubber mallet
    Concrete vibrator or vibrating sander
    Safety glasses
    Dust mask
    Protective clothing

    Finishing Up

    5 in 1 tool
    Hammer
    Plastic bucket
    Muriatic acid
    Sponge
    Hand squeegee
    Sander
    Sandpaper (starting at 120 grit through 220 grit sandpaper)
    Clean rags
    Penetrating sealer
    Beeswax
    100% silicone caulk
    Caulk gun
    Siliconized latex caulk (sanded variety)
    Blue painter's tape
    Safety glasses
    Dust mask
    Protective gloves

    Pouring Mold

    1. For the countertop mixture, Hannah, Dean and Derek use Precision Grout because it is non-shrinking, has a high-early strength of 3000 psi and is premixed so you only need to add water (figure A). If you would like to add color, Hannah recommends using powdered pigment and talking to the distributor about how to get the right color for your mixture (figure B).

    2. Determine the amount of concrete needed for your project. It is best to have your supplier calculate this for you, but a rough rule of thumb is the following: calculate the square feet of the project. At about 2 inches deep, you get about 8-10 square feet per 100 pounds of cement (the Precision Grout has roughly 25 pounds of cement and 25 pounds of sand per bag). Thus for 8-10 square feet of countertop with a depth of 2 inches, you need approximately 4-50 pound bags of Precision Grout.

    3. Adding steel mesh to the countertops adds strength and prevents cracking (figure C). Thoroughly clean the steel mesh using steel wool and acetone or denatured alcohol. Lay it over the mold, and cut it to shape with a 1 inch recess from the edge of the mold using bolt cutters. If you cannot find steel mesh, you can use 3/4 in. rebar set in a cross pattern and secured with steel wire. Drill screws every 4-6 inches around the top of your mold; you will suspend the steel mesh from these screws after you've poured in half of your concrete.

    4. To mix the concrete, wear safety glasses, a dust mask and old or protective clothing – this is an extremely dusty and dirty process (figure D). Add water following the instructions on the bag – never add more water than recommended. The desired consistency is one that rains or sheets off of the barrel as it turns over.

    5. Pour the concrete into waiting 5 gallon buckets and remove any excess concrete from the mixer using a spatula (figure E).

    6. Pour the concrete into the waiting molds. Add enough concrete to fill a little over half of the mold. Evenly spread the concrete in the mold and near the corners (figure F). Wire the steel mesh or rebar into the mold so it is suspended between 1 and 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the mold (figure G). Fill the rest of the mold with concrete (figure H).

    7. Vibrate the concrete by tapping the bottom and sides of the mold with a rubber mallet (figure I) and running a concrete vibrator or a vibrating sander with the sandpaper removed. Vibrating the concrete liquefies it, getting rid of air bubbles and drawing it into the corners to ensure a smooth finished product.

    8. Vibrate and add concrete until the concrete is flush with the edge of the mold. Create a smooth surface by using a trowel or screeding with a straight 2X4. Finish your work on the wet concrete by running a 2 inch spatula along the edges of the mold to clean off excess concrete.

    9. Allow the concrete to set up. Because the Precision Grout is a fast setting product, Dean and Derek were able to unmold the concrete after 24 hours.


    RESOURCES :

    Architectural Concrete Specialties, Inc.
    Hannah Black, President
    Phone: 602-955-2396
    Fax: 602-955-3001
    Factory Phone (Phoenix): 602-275-3908
    E-mail: acsconcretestudio@cox.net
    Website: www.acsconcrete.com

    Spaces Indoors and Out
    Barbara Kaufman
    Phone: 480-767-7636
    Fax: 480-767-7635
    Mobile: 602-549-9863
    E-mail: spacesforyou@cox.net
    Website: www.spacesindoorsandout.com

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