Materials: Making Template
Strips of thin veneer wood such as lauan or doorskin
Glue gun
Tape measure
Permanent marker
Utility knife
Square
Hand stapler
Creating Countertop Mold
Countertop templates
3/4 inch melamine
Large work table
Pencil
Table saw (with sharp new blade)
Screw gun with 1/8 inch drill bit
Screws
Blue painter's tape
100% silicone caulk
Caulk gun
Clean rags
Denatured alcohol or acetone
Protective gloves
Pouring Mold
Quikrete Non-Shrink Precision Grout
Concrete color (optional)
Concrete mixer (can be rented)
Measuring buckets
5 gal. buckets
2 in. spatula
Steel mesh or 3/4 in. rebar
Steel wire
Bolt cutters
Steel wool
Acetone
Screws (can be same used for fastening mold)
Trowels
Rubber mallet
Concrete vibrator or vibrating sander
Safety glasses
Dust mask
Protective clothing
Finishing Up
5 in 1 tool
Hammer
Plastic bucket
Muriatic acid
Sponge
Hand squeegee
Sander
Sandpaper (starting at 120 grit through 220 grit sandpaper)
Clean rags
Penetrating sealer
Beeswax
100% silicone caulk
Caulk gun
Siliconized latex caulk (sanded variety)
Blue painter's tape
Safety glasses
Dust mask
Protective gloves
Pouring Mold
1. For the countertop mixture, Hannah, Dean and Derek use Precision Grout because it is non-shrinking, has a high-early strength of 3000 psi and is premixed so you only need to add water (figure A). If you would like to add color, Hannah recommends using powdered pigment and talking to the distributor about how to get the right color for your mixture (figure B).
2. Determine the amount of concrete needed for your project. It is best to have your supplier calculate this for you, but a rough rule of thumb is the following: calculate the square feet of the project. At about 2 inches deep, you get about 8-10 square feet per 100 pounds of cement (the Precision Grout has roughly 25 pounds of cement and 25 pounds of sand per bag). Thus for 8-10 square feet of countertop with a depth of 2 inches, you need approximately 4-50 pound bags of Precision Grout.
3. Adding steel mesh to the countertops adds strength and prevents cracking (figure C). Thoroughly clean the steel mesh using steel wool and acetone or denatured alcohol. Lay it over the mold, and cut it to shape with a 1 inch recess from the edge of the mold using bolt cutters. If you cannot find steel mesh, you can use 3/4 in. rebar set in a cross pattern and secured with steel wire. Drill screws every 4-6 inches around the top of your mold; you will suspend the steel mesh from these screws after you've poured in half of your concrete.
4. To mix the concrete, wear safety glasses, a dust mask and old or protective clothing this is an extremely dusty and dirty process (figure D). Add water following the instructions on the bag never add more water than recommended. The desired consistency is one that rains or sheets off of the barrel as it turns over.
5. Pour the concrete into waiting 5 gallon buckets and remove any excess concrete from the mixer using a spatula (figure E).
6. Pour the concrete into the waiting molds. Add enough concrete to fill a little over half of the mold. Evenly spread the concrete in the mold and near the corners (figure F). Wire the steel mesh or rebar into the mold so it is suspended between 1 and 1-1/2 inches from the bottom of the mold (figure G). Fill the rest of the mold with concrete (figure H).
7. Vibrate the concrete by tapping the bottom and sides of the mold with a rubber mallet (figure I) and running a concrete vibrator or a vibrating sander with the sandpaper removed. Vibrating the concrete liquefies it, getting rid of air bubbles and drawing it into the corners to ensure a smooth finished product.
8. Vibrate and add concrete until the concrete is flush with the edge of the mold. Create a smooth surface by using a trowel or screeding with a straight 2X4. Finish your work on the wet concrete by running a 2 inch spatula along the edges of the mold to clean off excess concrete.
9. Allow the concrete to set up. Because the Precision Grout is a fast setting product, Dean and Derek were able to unmold the concrete after 24 hours.