In most cases, mortarless brick pavers are great for walkways. But roots and frost heaving sometimes push them out of place. If that happens, it might be best to replace the brick walkway with a sturdier concrete walkway. Materials shovel
garden rake
wheelbarrow
tamping tool
12'-long 1" x 4" boards
10"-long 2" x 2" stakes
screws
Portland cement
sand
concrete gravel
hammer
Phillips- and flat-head screwdrivers
concrete float
pointing trowel
edging trowel
broom
plastic sheeting
leather gloves
1. Remove the bricks from the existing walkway, and stack them in a spot where they can stay for a while (you won't want to move them more than is necessary). 2. Remove the sand down to the gravel sub-base. Leave the gravel in place. In areas where water is a problem (such as a river edge), you'll need to dig beneath the gravel and pour a concrete base reinforced with a rebar grid. Use a temporary coffer dam to hold back the water while you pour the concrete base (figure A). 3. Rake (figure B) and tamp the gravel (figure C) to a firm, smooth surface. Level off high spots, and fill in low areas. 4. Use 12'-long 1" by 4" boards to create forms for the sides of the walkway. Drive wooden stakes 4' apart, and attach the boards to the stakes with all-purpose screws . Attach the ends of the boards to the stakes so that they'll match one another (figure D). The tops of the stakes should be below the 1" by 4" boards so that they won't interfere in the smoothing process later. 5. Mix equal parts Portland cement, sand and gravel to an oatmeal-like consistency , and pour it into the forms for your walkway. Start at the lowest area, and work your way up to the highest area. Level the concrete with the back of a garden rake as soon as you finish pouring. 6. Level the concrete by sliding a board across the tops of the forms as you work it down the length of the sidewalk (figure E), a process known as screeding. Make sure to screed the concrete before it gets too hard. 7. "Float" the concrete with a concrete float (figure F) to force the gravel down and allow the smooth cement to rise to the surface. Hold the float at a slight angle (figure G) for best results. 8. After the concrete has set for an hour or so, use a pointing trowel to separate the concrete from the form (figure H). This will help give a nice edge to the walkway . Follow up with an edging trowel (figure I) for a more finished look. 9. Lay a straight board across the forms, and use a control-joint scribing tool to create joints across the concrete at 4' intervals (figure J). These joints permit the concrete to expand and contract and help eliminate cracking. 10. Before the concrete sets, lightly drag a broom across it to add texture (figure K). This will help prevent the concrete from becoming slippery when wet. You may want to use the edging tool again to smooth out the edges of the walkway. 11. Cover the concrete with plastic so that it cures slowly. After 48 hours, remove the plastic and the wooden forms.
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