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  • Installing Hardwood Flooring
  • This DIY Basic, brought to you by Lumber Liquidators, will provide tips on installing hardwood flooring.
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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    • Hardwood flooring is beautiful, durable, and fairly easy to install, especially if you use tongue-and-groove, prefinished boards.

    • To prevent warping and gaps, the flooring needs at least 48 hours in the room to adjust to the temperature and humidity.

    • Start by stapling vapor-barrier paper to the sub-flooring.

    • The first row should be face-nailed into the floor joists (figure A).

    • Leave a 3/8-inch gap along the wall to allow for expansion (figure B).

    • Then, the boards can be secured with a flooring pneumatic nail gun.

    • Nails go through the tongue every 10 to 12 inches and the groove is then tapped to ensure the boards stay and fit snug (figure C).

    • Stagger boards at least six inches to prevent an awkward alignment of end joints (figure D).

    • After the last board, the baseboard is nailed in place (figure E).

    • One quick install and prefinished hardwood flooring will give you a lifetime of beauty and pleasure.

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    • To find the square footage you need, multiply the width of the room by its length. Allow 10-15 percent extra for irregular boards and mistakes.

    • If the subflooring squeaks, screw a long drywall screw into the subfloor and joist where the squeak is located.

    • Allow at least a four-inch overlap on the vapor barrier paper.

    • The pneumatic flooring package can be rented from a rental center for approximately $50 per day. Make sure you get the staples and nails that fit the particular gun you are using because they are all different.

    • Brazilian teak is 80 percent harder than oak and you will have a hard time getting the nails through the tongue and you also risk missing and damaging the flooring. The pneumatic tool gets the staples in at a precise 50-degree angle through the tongue. The staples will be covered up by the next piece that comes in.

    • For a solid anchor, boards should be laid perpendicular to the floor joists.

    • Lay out the boards in a dry run to get right the pattern of shading and random length.

    • If the gap for the last board is narrower than the board, cut the board lengthwise to fit the space.

    • Stain shoe molding to match flooring.


    RESOURCES :

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    Website: www.lumberliquidators.com