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| Waterproofing a Basement |
| This DIY Basic, brought to you Drylok, will provide tips on waterproofing a basement. |
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- If you have a damp basement (figure A) a piece of foil taped to the wall (figure B) can reveal whether the wetness is coming from inside or out.
- If there’s moisture on the room side of the foil, the dampness is caused by simple condensation; it can be fixed with a dehumidifier.
- Moisture on the wall side of the foil means it’s seeping in through the foundation and you may need to make gutter and downspout repairs to direct water away from the house (figure C).
- If water is also seeping in where the wall meets the floor, hydraulic cement (figure D) can be used to fill any gaps.
- Once you’ve eliminated the source of the moisture, applying waterproofing masonry paint will help stop any future seepage
- A stiff brush and some muriatic acid will remove any salt deposits so the masonry paint bonds better to the wall.
- Using a stiff bristled paintbrush allows the first coat of paint to be worked into the pores of the masonry.
- A second coat applied with a high nap roller will assure effective waterproofing.
Web Extras - To locate the source of wetness, tape a piece of foil to the inside of a foundation wall for several days. Remove the foil and check if the wall side or room side of the foil is wet. It’s possible both sides will be wet and that moisture is originating from inside and out.
- Prior to applying hydraulic cement open the crack up in an inverted "V" pattern with a chisel. Mix the cement, wet the area and force the cement into the area. Remove excess with a trowel and wire brush.
- Efflorescence is a white powdery deposit formed when naturally occurring salt compounds are drawn to the surface of masonry by water seepage. When working with muriatic acid always wear rubber gloves and eye protection and have adequate ventilation. Rinse the area thoroughly and allow it to dry completely prior to applying masonry paint.
RESOURCES :
UGL/Drylok Information
Website: www.ugl.com
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