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| Prefinished Hardwood Floor |
| This DIY kit brought to you by Lumber Liquidators shows you how to install a prefinished hardwood floor. |
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Materials: Pneumatic hardwood floor nailer
Tape measure
String
Weighted rubber mallet
Circle or chop saw
Electric drill
Flooring screws
Chalk
15-lb. felt floor liner/paper or rosin paper
2" flooring nails
Finishing nails Note: Be sure the flooring is delivered at least 48 hours before installation. Wood needs time to acclimate to your house. If you're remodeling, make sure the existing floor is secure. All floors are different, which means you'll need to do some research on the best way to prepare the surface. The boards need to run across instead of with the existing floor joists. - To get started, lay down 15-lb. felt paper or rosin paper.
- Plan the floor avoiding the "ladder effect" by laying the strips parallel (figure A) to the longest wall.
- Chalk a line out from the wall at least 1/2" wider than a flooring strip, leaving 1/4" minimum expansion space between the wall and the first strip (figure B).
- Drill pilot holes for the nails 12" to 16" apart so as not to damage the strip when nailing.
- Lay the tongue edge of the strip on the guide line. Measure and cut the strip to finish the row. Nail the first row by hand and use the extra to start the next row. Stagger the boards by at least 6" (figure C) to avoid clustering the end-joints.
- Tap the next board tight to the previous board (using a "rubber" mallet to protect the wood) and then nail. Use a hardwood floor nailer for installation.
- On the last rows, remember to leave 1/4" expansion space, even if you have to trim the last piece (figure D).
- Ease the tongue in place. Drill the holes and nail by hand.
Nail Down Instructions for Husky Coat 3/4" or 3/8" Solid Hardwood Flooring Product Specifications The Husky Coat product is 3/4 " or 3/8" thick solid, tongue and groove, random lengths (from 10" to 82"), prefinished hardwood strip flooring. It is a nailed down product with blind-nails (cleats), set with a specialized hardwood flooring nailing machine over a wood subfloor. The subfloor should be constructed of 5/8" or thicker plywood, when installed over 16" center joists. Installation over concrete is possible and requires a specific method. First, the concrete must be tested for excess moisture. Next, a moisture barrier system must be added over the concrete, and a wood subfloor (minimum 3/4" plywood or sleepers) must be installed. Moisture content of any wood components for the wood subfloor should not exceed 12 percent. Tools and Accessories - Hardwood floor nailer (manual or pneumatic)
- Rubber mallet
- Tenon saw, circular saw or hand saw
- Electric drill, with a 3/32 inch (2mm) bit
- Claw hammer and nail punch
- Square and measuring tape
- Pry bar and 5 inch (12.5 cm) putty knife
- Chalk line
- Flooring screws
- Construction paper or 15-lb. felt floor liner
- Hardwood flooring nails (2"/5 cm) -- 1 box or 1000 nails per 200 sq. ft/18.6 sq. m
- Screw shank finishing nails (2.5"/6.3 cm) or regular finishing nails
- Filler stick and Touch-up marker
- Broom and dust pan
Other prefinished installation accessories like reducer, stair nosing, baseboard, wood vents, etc. are available from Husky Coat Direct. Temperature and Humidity The relative humidity level in your home must be maintained at 45 percent (40-50 percent) throughout the year. Hardwood flooring reacts to changes of relative humidity. It absorbs or releases humidity with the seasons. Consequently, its dimension changes. In the summer, when humidity is at its highest, it is absorbed by the wood, which then expands. The expansion causes the strips of wood to push against one another. This could result in "cupping". These variations can be minimized with proper ventilation, dehumidifying or heating. In the winter, when the heating system is on, the relative humidity level in the house is much lower. The wood releases its humidity and contracts or shrinks. It is recommended to use a humidifier in order to minimize shrinkage effects. For new construction or remodeling, the heating system must be operational, and the house must have been heated for a week at 71 degrees F. Plastering and concrete work must be completely dry (45 to 90 days old). Check basements and underfloor crawl space to be sure they are dry and well ventilated, in order to avoid damage caused by moisture. Flooring should be left to acclimate at house temperature for a period of at least 24 hours at the recommended relative humidity level. Using a moisture meter, available from Husky Coat Direct, check the plywood (subfloor) moisture content. Moisture content should not exceed 12 percent. If the moisture content is too high, delay the installation and turn up the heating system, increase ventillation, or open the basement windows slightly. The installer and/or owner has full responsibility for moisture testing to ensure that the wood subfloor and the concrete slab (when applicable) are within acceptable limits. Preparation For new construction and remodeling: - Remove baseboards and door sills.
- Remove the old floor covering if applicable.
- Screw the subfloor securely to the joists to prevent squeaking noises in the floor.
- Using a hand saw, cut the bottom of the door frames 3/4-inch (1.9cm) in order to slide a hardwood strip beneath.
- Make sure the floor is straight and level. Correct if necessary.
- Make sure the floor is completely dry.
- Make a sketch of the installation beforehand to avoid surprises.
- Determine the direction in which you will lay the strips. Avoid the ladder effect by installing the strips parallel to the longest length wall of the room. It is also recommended to install them in the opposite direction across the joists or, if impossible, at a 45 degree angle.
- Determine your starting wall and/or location.
- Sweep the subfloor clean.
- Install a 15-lb. felt floor liner or construction paper.
Hardwood Floor Nailing Tips Here are a few tips to make your job easier, should you decide to use a manual hardwood floor nailer: - Prevent any scratches and indentations of the surface of the board by keeping the nailer plate (base) clean, free from nicks and scratches at all times, and also by putting down the nailer on the plywood or on a piece of cardboard, not directly on the prefinished floor.
- By adopting a standing position while using the manual nailer, you will deploy more strength when you drive the nails in. Nails that are nearly embedded can be driven in place by using the hammer and a nail punch.
- Hold the nailer firmly in place and hit the head of the nailer with the rubber end of the mallet.
- Make sure the nailer base is squared and sits well on the edge of the strip to avoid damaging the edges of the strips.
- Verify regularly the hardwood floor nailer is in working condition to prevent damages to strips.
- Pneumatic nailer -- Air pressure should be adjusted adequately for each species of hardwood floor installed (always try it before using) and checked regularly.
RESOURCES :
Lumber Liquidators Information
Lumber Liquidators
Website: www.lumberliquidators.com
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