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  • Copper Pipe Pot Rack
  • Solder up this classy copper rack.
    From "B. Original"
    episode DBOR-601


    PHOTO

    Conquer kitchen clutter with this cool copper rack.
    A great pot rack saves space and puts your best-looking kitchen tools out on display. This great pot rack shows off your creativity at the same time.

    B. Original host Michele Beschen shows how to solder up a classy – and sturdy – rack made from copper plumbing pipes. The clean lines and beautiful metal work well with any décor, and the extra storage helps keep the kitchen running smoothly. Scroll down to get started.

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    Copper Pipe Pot Rack

    Materials:

    To build the pot rack:
    stud finder
    pencil
    measuring tape
    15' of 1/2" thin-wall copper pipe
    (4) 1/2" copper elbows
    (10) 1/2" copper T connectors
    lacquer thinner
    rag
    vise
    pipe cutter or hack saw
    lead-free tinning flux
    propane torch
    lead-free solder
    heat-resistant surface such as cement board
    safety glasses
    leather gloves
    To finish and hang the rack:
    steel wool
    spray polyurethane
    (4) 3/16" eyebolts, 2-1/2" long
    (8) 3/16" nuts
    marker
    awl
    hammer
    drill with 3/16" metal bit
    4 ceiling hooks
    3" open S hooks
    approx. 8' of decorative chain
    2 pairs of pliers

    Note: Since these pipes won't need to stand up to water pressure, Michele Beschen recommends using thin-wall pipe. Sold in 5' and 10' lengths, it typically has "Type M" printed on the pipe in red letters and is less expensive than the thicker "Type L" pipe.

    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
     PDF
    Click here to download the pot rack diagram.

    • Determine where the pot rack will hang and use the stud finder and pencil to locate and mark the ceiling joists. Measure the distance between the joists. Michele Beschen's pot rack measured 38" by 20" to hang from ceiling joists that are 18" apart; if your joists are spaced differently, adjust the project dimensions to fit.

    • Clean all the lettering off the pipe with a rag dipped in lacquer thinner.

    • Secure the pipe in a vise and cut according to the dimensions below. A pipe cutter (figure A) works best for this job; if one isn't available, you also can use a hack saw. To use a pipe cutter, measure and mark the location of the cut. Slip the cutter over the pipe, and tighten it down so the blade rests directly on the mark. Rotate the cutter to score and cut the pipe. Measure carefully and cut:
      • 7 pieces 7" long
      • 8 pieces 9" long
      • 4 pieces 14-5/8" long

      Safety Alert: Make sure to wear safety glasses if cutting the pipe with a hacksaw to protect your eyes from sharp metal shavings.

    • Lay out the pipe and fittings on a heat-resistant surface (figure B). Check to make sure the pieces fit together properly before soldering. Click the link at the right for a downloadable diagram of how the rack fits together.

    • To solder the rack, brush the end of a piece of pipe with lead-free tinning flux (figure C), then insert it into the appropriate fitting (figure D). Make sure the pipe is firmly seated. Prepare the other nearby joints at the same time to save time and avoid having to handle hot pipes.

      Photo

      Figure C

      Photo

      Figure D


    • Unwind about 1' of lead-free solder and keep it handy.

      Safety Alert: Always wear safety glasses and leather gloves when soldering pipe and make sure to work on a heat-resistant surface such as cement board. Follow all manufacturer's directions for the propane torch and solder, and keep kids and pets away when soldering.

      PHOTO

      Figure E
      PHOTO

      Figure F
      PHOTO

      Figure G
      PHOTO

      Figure H

    • While wearing safety glasses and leather gloves, light the propane torch. Heat the pipe and fitting, keeping the flame about 2" from the surface. Remember to only do this on a heat-resistant surface.

    • Once the joint is hot, touch the tip of the solder to the joint (figure E). If the joint is hot enough, the solder will melt and be sucked into the joint.

    • Use the same technique to solder all of the joints on the rack.

    • Let the rack cool completely.

    • On the two long sides of the rack, measure and mark a point 3-1/2" in from each corner of the rack. Use an awl and hammer to make a small dent in the copper pipe at these points.

    • Use a drill with a 3/16" metal bit to drill a hole all the way through the pipe at each dent (figure F).

      Safety Alert: Always wear safety glasses when drilling metal.

    • Thread one nut all the way up the shaft of each eyebolt, then fit the bolts through the holes in the rack. Secure each eyebolt with a second nut. Using two nuts – and eyebolts longer than the thickness of the rack – makes it much easier to adjust how the rack hangs.

    • Before hanging, shine up the rack with steel wool and protect it with two or more coats of polyurethane.

    • Using the marks at the ceiling joists, determine the final location for the pot rack. Install four ceiling hooks into the joists to hold the rack.

    • Cut four lengths of decorate chain about 2' long. To attach the chain to the rack, use two pairs of pliers to open a link at one end of the chain, fit the opened link through an eyebolt and bend the link closed (figure G). Repeat for the other three eyebolts.

    • Slip the other ends of the chain lengths over the ceiling hooks.

    • Level and secure the pot rack by adjusting the nuts on the eyebolts.

    • Use the 3" open S hooks to hang pots and lids from the rack (figure H), and you're ready to get cooking!

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