Allison's Newsboy CapMaterials:
1 yd. wool tweed, tartan or plaid
1 yd. lining fabric in red
heavyweight iron-on stabilizer for the brim
20" of 1/2" elastic
all-purpose sewing thread to match the main fabric and lining
1 vintage button
pattern (see link, at right)
1. Cut out pattern pieces as indicated. If you're using a plaid fabric, be sure that the hat upper pieces are going in the same direction and in the same part of the pattern so they line up when placed in a horizontal line.
2. With right sides facing, sew together three of the hat upper pieces along the curved edge. Press and serge or overlock the raw edges.
3. Repeat with remaining three hat upper pieces.
4. Pin these two sections together along the curve and stitch together. Press and serge or overlock raw edges.
5. Repeat the above steps with lining fabric so that there are two complete hat uppers.
6. Trim stabilizer by 1⁄4" all around; then iron it onto the wrong side of one of the brim pieces, using a hot dry iron.
7. With right sides facing, sew the brim together at the curved and shortest straight sides. Turn it right side out and press.
8. Topstitch the brim along the seamed edges.
9. Line up the center of the brim with one of the hat upper seams and pin together with right sides facing. The curved side of the brim should be on the left side of the face as it's worn.
10. Stitch the brim to the upper with a 3/4" seam allowance. Serge or overlock the raw edges.
11. Press under a 3/4" hem around the base of the hat upper. The hem should directly follow the line of the seam between the brim and the upper.
12. Stitch the hem in place to create a casing for the elastic. Be sure to leave a gap at one end and enough width in the hem to pass a length of 1⁄2"-wide elastic through.
13. Pass the elastic through the casing, using a safety pin. Stitch it in place securely at either end, back-tacking several times on the sewing machine.
14. Press under a 3/4" hem on the lining fabric.
15. With the fabric wrong side out, slip it inside the hat. Pin the lining to the upper at the hem, stretching the elastic as you pin. The lining should begin 1⁄2" from the edge of the hat.
3. Whipstitch the lining in place.
4. Create a freeform flower from scrap fabric, fraying the edges for a deconstructed look. Secure it in place with a vintage button at the center.
5. Fold the brim back along the fold line (dotted on the pattern piece) and hand-stitch the embellishment in the corner to hold the brim in place.
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