DIY Network

Handiwork: Rose 3-D Topiary From "Uncommon Threads" episode DUCT-133

Beth Frizzell creates a three-dimensional topiary with a paper-piecing technique. The intricate pattern of the flowers is stitched together following a number system. Then she shows how to use a hand-stitch to gather the flower and create the dimensional quality.

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	Rose 3-D Topiary
	PDF Vase template: click to download.
	PDF Bow appliqué: click to download.
	PDF Rose and stem: click to download.

Materials (for finished size 16"x20"):

3/4 yd. cotton batting (cut size: 17"x21")
3/4 yd. dark green batik print for background (cut size 17"x21")
1/4 yd. each 5-6 shades of bright yellow for flowers
scrap of warm yellow batik print for vase (cut size: 5"x5", see vase template)
2 yds. cream muslin (cut size: (1) 17"x21" square and (15) 5"x5" squares)
scrap of brown or tan for trunk (cut size: 6"x2" strip)
1/2 yd. rich medium-brown fabric for "frame" binding (cut size: two 2-1/2"x44" strips)
1 pkg. Steam-A-Seam 2® fusible interfacing (available at local fabric store, comes in a package of five 9"x12" sheets)
light quilting removable pencil for dark fabrics (available at local craft or quilt store)
coordinating thread for appliqué and quilting
pins
small sharp scissors
appliqué needle (or sharp)
1/4"-1/2"-wide coordinating ribbon with or without wire (1 yd.)
sewing machine

This project uses a technique of taking a foundation-pieced rose block and basting around the edges in order to gather the fabric from behind. This gives the rose a 3-D effect. Many roses are placed together in a rosebush topiary shape.

Tip: You can use this technique for any foundation-pieced shape that is semiround. The edges cannot be too pointed or it won't draw up well.

To make flowers:
Trace design with a ruler onto paper and label all pieces in the order that they are to be pieced (figure A). This will be the master template. Go over the master template with a fine-tipped sharpie or marker to make all lines and numbers stand out better.

Cut out muslin squares 3"-4" larger than the master pattern.
Lay a muslin square over the master pattern and trace all lines and numbers with a pencil and ruler (figure B). When the pattern or design has been completely traced, you are ready to piece the flower.

Figure A

Figure B

Tip: Since the entire flower is in yellow shades, it doesn't matter which color is chosen for which piece. Changing shades for each piece will make for a more interesting flower.

Cut a small rectangular piece for the space marked #1 on the design. Be sure that it will cover the entire #1 space with at least 1/2" seam allowance around. This will be the very center of the flower. Cut another rectangular piece to cover space #2 on the design. (Each piece will be rectangular in shape to begin with, no matter what the space it will cover looks like. This will insure that when you are piecing, the fabric will be large enough to cover if it is not lined up exactly. Triangle scraps do not work well for this method.)

Piece, starting with fabric scrap for #1 face up on the back side of the muslin directly over the area marked #1. Place #2 piece and face down on #1. Carefully turn over muslin. Hold the muslin up to the light and be sure that #2 piece is covering the line between #1 and #2 with a seam allowance. (You will do all of the stitching on the pattern side of the muslin with the fabric pieces on the back side. You will follow the lines of the pattern, piecing in number order. Once stitched, the face-down fabric will be opened up and will cover its corresponding space.) Stitch on the line between #1 and #2, taking one or two stitches outside each line (past the end of marked line on both sides) to secure the stitches (figure C). Do not backstitch, as this adds bulk to the finished piece.

Open up #2 fabric and finger-press open. Be sure that the finished open piece covers the desired area with some allowance for other pieces. Turn #2 back flat against #1 and trim the seam allowance to 1/4" or less, being careful not to catch any muslin in the trimming. Open #2 again and repeat this with #3 face down on #2, stitching (from the pattern side) on the line between #2 and #3. Repeat until you have pieced each numbered pattern piece (figure D). Press flower from right side.

Figure C

Figure D

	Figure E
	Figure F

When the flower is pieced, trim around the block, leaving about 1" on the edge of the actual flower design (figure E).

Tip: Turn the flower over and trim the muslin from the edges. This will eliminate some of the bulk in the fabric before basting. Do not trim inside or through any stitching; trim only the muslin and allowance fabric from the edges of the back of the flower. Be very careful not to trim the front fabric of the flower.

Baste by hand 1/4"-1/2" from edge of flower all the way around, leaving long tails of the thread. Pull up the basting stitch to gather the edges together and hide them in the back. Open the gathering up just enough to insert a cotton ball. If the cotton ball is oversized, just tear some off until it is small enough to fit. Pull gathering stitches again, enclosing the cotton ball (figure F), and knot the tails of the thread to hold the gather.

Make 14 flowers.

To make stem and vase:
Make a quilt "sandwich" of the background fabric, batting and muslin, with muslin, then batting, then background fabric face up. Safety pin or baste around the outside to hold the sandwich together.

Use the vase template to trace the vase shape onto the paper side of the fusible Steam-A-Seam.

Note: Please read all directions for the use of Steam-A-Seam.

Remove the paper backing (this is the side that will come off the easiest.) Place the Steam-A-Seam to the wrong side of the vase fabric. Cut the off around the vase shape and remove the remaining paper backing from the Steam-A-Seam.

Place the fabric vase right side up onto the background fabric. The sticky back will allow you to reposition it until you have it centered on the lower part of the background. Be sure to leave room for the stem and topiary top.

Tip: To find the center of the background, fold the background sides wrong sides together and mark fold with several pins. Vase should be placed in the lower third of the fabric with the bottom of the vase around 4" from the bottom edge of the background fabric.

Repeat the fusible method with the scrap of stem fabric and the Steam-A-Seam. (You might consider cutting out a curvy or bumpy stem for a more realistic appearance.) Place the bottom edge of the stem strip underneath the top edge of the vase.

	Figure G
	Figure H

Make sure that you have room for the topiary top. Lay the flowers out in a ball shape at the top, determining the best placement for flowers, stem and vase. The bottom of the topiary should cover the top edge of the stem. As you remove the flowers, use the light marking pencil to make a small circle underneath each flower to note placement for later. When you have determined the desired position of all pieces and marked where the flowers will go, press stem and vase (following Steam-A-Seam package directions) to the background fabric permanently (figure G). Satin-stitch around both pieces with coordinating thread.

Quilt the background as desired, stitching around, but not through, the fused stem and vase. Stitch entire background all the way to the edge of the wall hanging.

Attaching the roses to the background:
Pin nine flowers to the quilted background for the outside ring of the topiary shape (figure H). For the inner ring, arrange and pin four flowers on the background fabric just inside the outer ring. You can overlap the flowers on each other and on the outside ring if desired. The last flower is placed in the center overlapping the inner ring. This gives the 3-D effect of the center being the point closest to you. When the desired effect is pinned, remove all but the outer ring. Appliqué by hand with a blind stitch around the outside of each flower, attaching them to the background fabric. Pin the inner ring and appliqué around the outside of each flower. Add the center flower and appliqué it also. If desired, you can add small hidden stitches to connect the rings to one another for stability.

Tie the ribbon in a bow. Stitch the center of the bow to the bottom of the stem right at the top of the vase. Leave the tails of the bow long and arrange the wire in a pleasing ripple. Pin and tack down the tails of the bow. Alternatively, you can appliqué a bow onto the design.

Consider adding fallen petals or leaves, or adding beads to the background in a random pattern. Beads or sequins can also be added to the flower centers.
Bind to finish (see binding instructions).
Add hanging sleeve, if desired.

Binding instructions (for binding "frame" turned to the front):
Attach binding strips together with a 1/4" seam allowance. Press seam allowances open. With the wrong sides together, fold the binding strip in half lengthwise and press.

Baste 1/2" in from the edge of the quilt top all the way around the wall hanging. Trim the backing and batting even with the wall hanging edge.
Beginning in the center of one side on the back of the wall hanging, place the binding strip against backing, aligning the binding strip's raw edges with the backing's raw edge. Fold back the beginning of the binding strip about 1/2". Sew through all layers 1/4" from the raw edge, stopping 1/4" from the corner. Backstitch; then clip the threads. Remove the wall hanging from under the sewing machine presser foot.

Fold the binding strip upward, creating a diagonal fold, and finger press.
Holding the diagonal fold in place with your finger, bring the binding strip down in line with the next edge, making a horizontal fold that aligns with the top edge of the wall hanging.

Continue sewing with 1/4" from the raw edge, starting at the top of the horizontal fold and stitching down the next side. Sew around the wall hanging, turning each corner in the same manner. When you return to the starting point, lap the binding strip end over the beginning fold and stitch just past the starting point.

Turn the binding over the edge of the wall hanging to the front. Hand-stitch the binding edge to the front fabric, pinning if necessary to keep the edges straight. To make mitered corners on the front, hand-stitch the binding up to a corner. Fold a miter in the binding. Take several stitches in the fold to secure it. Then stitch the binding in place up to the next corner. Finish each corner in the same manner.

RESOURCES :
Steam-A-Seam 2 double-sided adhesive iron-on fusible webbing
The Warm Company
Website: www.warmcompany.com

GUESTS :

Beth Frizzell
Website: www.colorwithquilts.com