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  • Fused Bracelet by Carl Stanley
  • From "Jewelry Making"
    episode DJMK-512


    Jewelry artist Carl Stanley joins host Jackie Guerra to demonstrate different techniques he uses to create cuffs made of sterling silver sheets.

    Experience Level: Advanced

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    PHOTO

    Guest jewelry artist Carl Stanley shows you techniques to create beautiful cuff bracelets like these.

    Materials ---

    24-gauge sterling sheet -- 1" x 6" and 1/8" x 6"
    18-gauge sterling square wire -- 2 pieces of 6.5"
    20-gauge sterling round wire -- 2 pieces 4.5"
    4 to 6 sterling casting grains 3mm to 6mm in size
    Silver soldering flux and brush
    Patina chemicals and enamel paints

    Tools --

    Patina brush and paintbrush
    Sandpaper
    Q-Tips
    Cotton rag
    Paint solvent
    Shears for cutting sheet of silver
    Wire cutters
    Flat metal file
    Torch suitable for fusing silver and striker
    Firebrick and heat proof work surface
    Bracelet mandrel
    Plastic or rawhide mallet
    Rivet hammer or another type for texturing silver
    Nail punch or other stamping tool
    Metal pounding block
    Safety glasses
    Pyrex bread pan
    Sodium bisulfate -- from a pool supply store
    Plastic or copper tweezers
    Wire brush

    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    PHOTO

    Figure E
    PHOTO

    Figure F

    Fused Bracelet

    1. From a sheet of 24-gauge sterling cut a strip 1" x 6" and a narrow strip approximately 1/8" x 6" using cutting shears.

    2. With wire cutters cut several pieces of sterling wire. The size and shape can vary depending on your design. For this project two pieces of 18-gauge square 6.5" long and two pieces of 20-gauge around 4.5" long (figure A) were used.

    3. Use the bar side of a rivet hammer to texture the 1" wide strip with a crosshatch loose pattern. File a pattern into the surface of a hammer so that it creates a more complex mark like a stamp rather than a hammer (figure B).

    4. Use the same hammer to texture the narrow strip of silver with a dense continuous pattern perpendicular to its length. Then use a nail punch or other stamp to make additional random marks on the narrow strip (figure C).

    5. Use a mallet to flatten the textured pieces that will have bent during the texturing process.

    6. Slightly wiggle the wire pieces to give some character to them rather than the "just off the spool look". They may need to be flattened after that.

    7. Lay the 1" strip on a firebrick and coat it with a layer of soldering flux.

      Note: Flux is a chemical used in soldering which cleans the surfaces and results in a better bond.

    8. Use the wire pieces and the 1/8" strip to lay out a pattern on top of the wide strip. Also use a few pieces of sterling sheet to create additional design interest (figure D).

    9. Put on safety glasses. Strike the torch and adjust it to a soft neutral flame.

    10. Heat the entire assembly of silver pieces evenly bringing everything to a dull red. Then bring the flame to one end and heat the metal until it fuses together. Work the flame across the pattern until the entire pattern of wire has fused with the base sheet. You will see a slight glistening on the surface as this takes place. There is a learning curve here so it would be a good idea to practice with some small scraps of silver to get familiar with the fusing process before taking on a large costly project.

      Note: Vitrification is the process of using heat and fusion to create a chemical reaction.

    11. The heat from the torch and the burning of the flux will cause coloration and oxidation that may look nice but must be removed because they are transient and will not last over time. Use a wire brush to remove all the excess flux and acid. Make a bath of milk acid using eight ounces of dry sodium bisulfate dissolved in clean water. Mix this in a Pyrex bread dish. Place the fused bracelet in the bath until it is clean and white. Remove it from the bath with plastic or copper tweezers and rinse it with clean water.

    12. Trim the edges with wire cutters and file all the sides smooth -- also round out the corners with the file. The piece may need to be cut to a smaller size before filing the corners.

    13. Use fine sandpaper to smooth the entire bracelet blank at this point.

    14. Use a mallet and a mandrel to form the blank into a nice bracelet shape (figure E).

    15. Apply a patina chemical such as Silverblack and rinse in water.

    16. Dry the dark bracelet and sand with fine sandpaper to bring out the highlights.

    17. Use modelers enamel paint of desired colors to apply color and wipe the excess away with a rag and solvent. This makes a beautiful stained colored finish that is rich and beautiful when used in conjunction with a dark patina (figure F). Allow the paint to dry and you have a beautiful bracelet with a wonderful texture and design.


    GUESTS :

    Carl Stanley
    Website: www.carlstanleyjewelryarts.com

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