DIY Network

Cuttlefish Bone Necklace by Carl Stanley From "Jewelry Making" episode DJMK-510

Guest jewelry artist Carl Stanley joins host Jackie Guerra to make masculine necklace out of cuttlefish bone.

Experience Level: Advanced

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Guest Carl Stanley creates masculine necklace out of cuttlefish bone.

Materials --

1 large cuttlefish bone
24-gauge copper wire, 6-8"
Iron binding wire, 10-12"
Various tools for stamping, carving or impressing the cuttlefish bone such as dental tool, toothpick, popsicle stick, X-Acto knife, design stamps, jewelers file and buttons)
Ceramic crucible with handle
Metal to be cast (sterling, bronze or copper)
Borax flux

Tools --

Electric drill
1/8" drill bit
Safety glasses
Dark protective glasses
Wire cutters
Small bench vise with protective jaw covers or padding
Mechanics pliers
Hacksaw with blade
1 sheet of 100 grit sandpaper
Propane torch with hose and propane tank
Fine particle protective dust mask
1 sheet of newspaper
Flat work surface
Sharp pencil
Soft toothbrush
Paper cup
Patina chemical
Clean water in a dish
Soft toothbrush
30" of 2mm leather cord

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

Note: Many of the products such as sterling silver, the ceramic crucible with handle, tumbler with steel shot, patina chemicals, borax flux and the torch are available from most jewelry supply companies.

The torch and gas canister can also be found at many hardware stores where you should be able to find all the other supplies.

Cuttlefish Bone Necklace

Safety Tip: A fine particle dust mask should be worn during the following steps that deal with the carving and handling of the cuttlefish bone material.

1. Take a large cuttlefish bone and cut in half width-wise with a hacksaw.

2. Trim the hard shell from the sides of both pieces with wire cutters. Expose the soft core along the edges 1/4" or more and trim any excess hard shell from the cut ends.

3. Place a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface covered with newspaper and sand each half of the cuttlebone's soft side to make them flat and smooth (figure A).

4. Use 24-gauge copper wire to make a flat mock shape of the intended pendant (keep it simple and no larger than a half dollar).

5. Place the mock shape flat on the soft side of one of the cuttlebone halves. Keep it about 3/4" from the end cut and centered. Carefully lay the other cuttlebone half on top of the first one (soft sides facing each other -- trapping the wire between them). Make sure that the cut ends are lined up and that the sides are as evenly mated together as possible.

6. Now squeeze the two halves together so that the flattened soft surfaces are flush and even. The wire shape is still trapped between them and makes a shallow impression on both soft surfaces (figure B).

7. Holding the halves firmly together and not allowing them to shift -- sand both sides and the cut ends to make the halves evenly shaped and with soft core material exposed.

8. Still keeping the halves firmly together and not allowing them to shift -- use a sharp pencil to mark across the soft material on the sides and top (end cuts) several times passing over the seam between the two halves (figure C). This will create several registration marks that will allow you to align the halves together again in the same position.

9. Take the two halves apart and remove the wire shape. The impression left by the wire will act as guides allowing you to carve a design on both the front and back of the pendant that will meet together evenly when the registration marks are lined up (figure D).

10. You are now ready to carve and impress your design using a variety of tools and techniques. You can carve and cut with knives or files to create the main design. The soft material scrapes and cuts very easily. Brushing with a soft toothbrush will expose the growth pattern of the soft material and allow the beautiful random texture to transfer to the casting. Pushing in or impressing with stamps and other smooth tools will create patterns and designs with endless possibilities.

11. To keep the weight of the finished pendant reasonable do not carve more than 1/8" into both surfaces. Also keeping the finished piece in mind -- do not make patterns that will result in uncomfortable or sharp areas. One more thing to keep in mind is that the metal will need to be poured into the pattern from the top and the funnel will be used as the bail of the finished pendant. It is best to keep the design clear at the top where the funnel will be cut.

12. With an X-Acto knife cut a funnel shape on both halves leading from the cut end to the design area. This will be where the metal is poured into the pattern you have carved and will also serve as the bail or hanger for the finished pendant. The funnel shape needs to be about 1/8" or so deep on both sides and it needs to meet evenly so the finished shape is smooth. It should be about 1/2" wide at the open end and taper to about 1/4 to 3/8" where it meets the carved pattern.

13. With a sharp pencil lightly carve thin vent lines up and away from the design area where it looks like hot gas from the casting process could collect. Keep the vent lines about two millimeters from touching the design area and draw them all the way to the side of the cuttlebone. Make several as needed.

14. Cut two pieces of binding wire about 6" each with wire cutters. Mate the two halves together carefully using the registration marks.

15. Hold the lined up halves firmly together -- not allowing them to shift, and wrap the binding wire around them in two places and twist the wire ends together (figure E). Align the registration marks on more time and then tighten the wires with pliers. This is your cuttlefish bone casting form.

16. Support the casting form firmly between two or more bricks that are on top of a ceramic tile, or you can place the form inside a flower pot filled with dirt.

17. Place the required amount of casting metal grain in a paper cup. Estimate this by looking at the casting cavity and matching the volume in metal grain. Then add about 25 percent more for a sure pour and extra weight to create an excess button of metal.

18. Place the ceramic crucible on a brick. Put on dark glasses and start the torch and adjust to a medium flame. Make sure you have proper training and experience to use the torch required to melt the metal for casting.

19. Heat the crucible for several seconds then add a small pinch of borax flux. Heat the crucible for several more seconds and then pour the metal carefully into it.

20. Heat the metal in the crucible with the flame -- when it turns red hot add another small pinch of borax flux. Continue to heat the metal until it is molten and fluid. It will have a shiny surface when it is molten.

21. When the metal is molten carefully lift the crucible by the wood end of the handle. Keeping the flame on the metal so it does not cool -- bring the pour spout of the crucible in line above the funnel of the casting form. Turn the crucible and pour the metal into the casting form through the funnel (figure F). Keep the pour steady and fill the form completely. It is best if you can over fill just a bit creating a button of metal on top of the funnel. If there is any excess metal in the crucible, let it cool only until it is firm and then pry it out with an old screwdriver before it gets stuck in the crucible.

22. Allow the metal to cool -- untwist or cut the binding wire and open the cuttlebone casting form to reveal the finished casting (figure G).

23. Rinse the casting in water and clean off any ash left by the burn cuttlebone.

24. Clamp the casting in a small vise protecting it with heavy paper. Place it in the vise at an angle that will allow you to cut the excess button off with a hacksaw. Also drill a 1/8" hole through the funnel shape to serve as the bail. Make sure to wear safety glasses.

25. Sand and file the casting to finish any rough areas.

26. Polish the pendant using a wheel and compound or use a tumbler with steel shot to polish it with less work on your part.

27. Apply a chemical patina then rinse in water and polish again bringing out the carved pattern detail as well as the natural design left by the growth patterns of the cuttlefish bone.

28. String your new creation on a leather cord and wear it with pride.

GUESTS :

Carl Stanley
Website: www.carlstanleyjewelryarts.com