DIY Network

Photo-Transfer Bracelet Photo-Transfer Bracelet From "Jewelry Making" episode DJMK-312

Photo-Transfer Bracelet

Materials:

2 oz. Sculpey Premo polymer clay
Toner-based copy of transfer image (suggested size: 5-1/5" to 6 " long and 1" to 1-1/2" wide
Gin (cheapest brand available)
Mica powders, such as Pearl Ex powders, or metallic acrylic paint for accent on the reverse side of the bracelet
Water-based polymer clay sealer, such as Mona Lisa products by Houston Arts
Elastic cording
Accent beads
Burnishing tool or teaspoon
Unmounted rubber stamp or texture plate
Pasta machine
Tissue blade
Dedicated toaster oven and oven thermometer (if home oven is not used)
Skewer or needle tool for piercing beads
Nonporous work surface, such as ceramic tile
Wide, soft brush
Quick-dry cement

advertisement

Creating the Transfer on Clay

1. Condition the pearl clay, then roll it through the pasta machine, on a #3 setting, about 20 times, folding and placing fold-end first through the machine.

Figure A

2. Trim excess paper from a transfer copy made on a dry-toner color copier. The copy should be about 6" long and approximately 1" to 1-1/2" wide when trimmed (figure A). Since the image will be reversed when transferred, be sure to copy using a mirror image if necessary.

3. Lay the image face down on the clay, lightly smooth the edges and trim away excess clay.

4. Spray a small amount of gin on the back of the transfer (or apply with a dampened finger) to completely moisten the paper. Blot away excess liquid with a paper towel.

	Figure B
	Figure C

5. Burnish the transfer with a small tool (figure B) or the back of a metal teaspoon, rubbing from the inside of the image to the edges.

6. Remove the transfer paper from the transfer by dampening a finger with gin and rubbing over the paper until the paper begins to loosen and form little balls (figure C). Keep rubbing until all of the paper is in small balls, dampening with more gin if needed. Brush away the paper with a soft bristle brush and let the image dry.

Note: Do not overmoisten the paper or the ink will begin to smear.

Making the Back of the Bracelet

1. Spray a textured plate with gin or water, place a strip of conditioned pearl clay, rolled on a #1 or #2 setting, on the plate and roll both back through the pasta machine. As an alternate idea, use a textured rubber stamp to create a textured image.

2. Gently remove the clay from the plate.

3. Cut the strip of clay slightly larger than the transferred strip of clay.

Making Bracelet Links

1. Run the remaining clay through the pasta machine on a #4 setting to make it as long as needed for the bracelet. Six inches is a good length to start with, since beads and embellishments will add length to the bracelet.

2. Cut a thin strip, about 3/8" wide, and place it down the center back of the transferred strip.

Figure D

3. Cut two more strips about the same width, then place them 1/8" away from either side of the center strip. This will make channels for the cording to slide through.

4. Place the transfer and channel section on the wrong side of the textured section, sandwiching the channels between the transferred image and the textured strip of clay (figure D).

5. Trim all edges evenly, using the tissue blade to cut through the three layers of clay.

6. Turn the clay strip over to the textured side and using a finger, rub a small amount of mica powder over the raised image and the outer edges of the strip.

Figure E

7. Using the tissue blade, cut the strip into segments (figure E). They can be cut in straight sections or have angled sides for interest. Angled cuts will cause the bracelet links to lie slightly askew.

8. Leaving the pieces in order but not touching, bake the bracelet links at 265 degrees for about 30 minutes on a piece of card stock.

9. Cool the links, remove any remaining paper residue with gin, brush all sides with a water-based sealant and allow to dry.

Putting the Bracelet Together

1. Keeping the links in order, string them on an elastic cord, alternating spacer beads between the links. Use two pieces of cording, leaving about 2" extra on each end of the links.

2. Tie each cord, using a surgeon's knot. Pull the knot into the hole of the clay link and secure with super glue.

GUESTS :

Janet Pitcher
Owner/Operator
Two Can Clay
Phone: 858-335-1129
E-mail: twocanclay@san.rr.com
Web site: www.twocanclaydesigns.com