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  • The Stained Glass Lampshade
  • Hammered co-host Jimmy DiResta creates a stained-glass lampshade. Check out more Hammered projects and videos.


    PHOTO

    In creating this stained glass lampshade, Hammered co-host Jimmy DiResta introduces basic stained-glass techniques — including cutting, foiling and soldering glass.
    A stained glass lampshade is a wonderful way to add warm colors and light in your room. After selecting a lampshade, Jimmy traces one side of the shade to use as a template. Once completed, the stained glass is mounted into the lampshade bracket. All that's left to do is to screw in a light bulb, cover your lamp base and turn on the power!

    Below is a summary of the basic steps as seen in this Hammered project, as well as a list of materials and tools used.

    Materials and tools:

    36-yard rolls of 1/4" copper foil (1 to 3)
    solder (1 to 3 lbs. of solder. Solder spools are typically 1 lb.)
    flux
    flux brush
    14" lamp base with hardware/socket
    lampshade bracket/frame that will accept the top of the frame (4")
    40-watt light bulb (maximum wattage may vary depending on the lamp socket)
    scrap plywood to fit lampshade side
    scrap 2 x 4
    bucket with soap and water
    45-w. soldering iron (heat range up to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit)
    glass grozier tool (specialty pliers) to break away and nibble glass
    glass cutter tool with carbide cutting wheel (preferably with oil in the handle to dispense a small amount of oil for the blade)
    paper
    pencil
    black marker
    straightedge
    wood glue
    measuring tape

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    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    Glass material:

    1' glass squares (10 - 20):

    • *opalescent yellow
    • *opalescent orange
    • opalescent blue-green
    • *opalescent red
    • *opalescent light green
    • *opalescent blue-violet
    • *wispy blue
    • wispy pink
    • *sky blue
    • *yellow
    • wispy green
    • white

    *For our pattern, the items marked with an asterisk required the most glass.

    Safety Alert: Always follow manufacturer's instructions and safety precautions when working with a soldering iron.

    Dimensions

    Overall (with base and shade): 24" high x 15" wide. (Base is 14" high.)
    Lampshade sides: 4" top width x 1' bottom width x 1' sides

    Color stained-glass patterns for our lamp (figures A, B, C & D):

    • Side 1: Opalescent yellow (wraps to side 2), opalescent orange, opalescent blue-green, opalescent red (wraps to side 2), opalescent light green (wraps to side 4), opalescent blue-violet (wraps to side 2)
    • Side 2: Wispy blue (wraps to side 3), opalescent yellow (from side 1), opalescent red (from side 1), opalescent blue-violet (from side 1), wispy pink, opalescent orange (wraps to side 3)
    • Side 3: Sky blue (wraps to side 4), wispy blue (from side 2), yellow (wraps to side 4), wispy green, orange (from side 2)
    • Side 4: Opalescent orange (wraps to side 1), opalescent light green (wraps to side 1), white, sky blue (from side 3), yellow (from side 3)

    Steps:

    • On a scrap piece of wood, marker in a template of the lampshade side. Use this as your guide. With a straightedge and a glass cutter, score the pieces, and then use a glass grozier to break away the pieces, and nibble away edges as necessary. Piece it together as you go.

    • Once all pieces are cut and in place, foil them. Remove the backing from the 1/4" copper foil, and anchor it on a corner or other point on a piece. Then slowly wrap it around the edges, keeping it taut. Use the edge of a pencil to smooth the foil into place. The foil needs to be consistently flat and clean. Continue to foil the rest of the pieces, and place them in.

      PHOTO

      Figure E
      PHOTO

      Figure F

    • With a flux brush, apply flux generously to a point where two pieces meet. Then with some solder extended over the intersection, press the heated soldering iron to that intersection, and slowly move across the break so that the solder flows well (figure E). Once the solder cools, you will have a good joint. The solder won't work unless it's hot enough, so be sure your iron is duly heated. Continue to work your way around in this manner, being very careful not to touch the heating element on the iron.

    • With a bucket of soap and water, and a brass brush, clean up any excess flux or debris by brushing lightly across the surface. Then carefully flip it over, solder the other side for support, and clean it similarly. Before you flip it, make sure it is dry and solid.

    • Start to join the sides by making two edges meet, and place a scrap 2x4 behind that edge to keep it straight. Solder the edge. Continue this way around until all are soldered.

    • Mount the lampshade bracket in the inverted lampshade (figure F), and solder the corners/edges into place.

    • Install the light bulb.

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