DIY Network

Axe Handle Stool Get a handle on rustic seating style. From "B. Original" episode DBOR-407

You'll love the look of this graceful tool stool.

Michele Beschen loves working with tools – and that includes working with them as art elements. For this project, the B. Original host turns her furniture-crafting talents to crafting a graceful, rustic stool from axe and hammer handles.

It's easy to overlook tool handles. After all, the "business end" of the tool is the one that actually chops the wood, pounds the nail or digs the hole. But the flowing lines and beautiful hardwood of this piece will have you thinking of other ways to use tool handles. Scroll down to get started.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H

Axe Handle Stool

Materials:

pine table round, 12" in diameter and 1" thick
4 axe handles, about 28" long (with wedges)
2 hammer handles
ruler
square piece of thin wood, 8-1/4" x 8-1/4"
drill with wood bit
band saw, jigsaw or hand saw
flush saw
wood glue

Note: Axe handles are classified by their weight, not their length. Michele Beschen used 2-1/4 lb. axe handles for this project, measuring about 28" long. The exact size of the handles isn't nearly as important as having all four handles being the same size.

• The trick to this project is getting the axe handles spaced evenly. Michele Beschen recommends making a jig to help position the legs.

• Make the jig from a square piece of luan or thin wood. Michele Beschen's was 8-1/4" square; when placed on top of the 12" table round, the four corners touch the outside of the circle.

• Draw diagonal lines from corner to corner to find the center of the jig. Measure, mark and cut two slits at each corner; the slits need to be about 2" long and 1/2" apart (figure A).

• Center the jig on the table round and trace each of the slits with a pencil (figure B). Make a mark one inch from the edge of the table round at each slit mark.

• Notice that the heads of the axe handles are shaped a little like a teardrop. Position a handle at one of the marks, with the widest portion toward the outside of the seat. Trace around the teardrop shape (figure C).

• Position and trace around the other three legs.

• Carefully cut out the four teardrop shapes. The easiest way to do this is by drilling a hole in the teardrop shape and using a jigsaw to cut out the shape. Stay within the lines as much as possible for a tight fit (figure D).

• Apply wood glue to the head of each handle and insert them into the holes until they are flush with the top of the seat.

• Flip the stool right-side up. Working from the top of the stool, insert a wedge in the center crack of each handle (figure E). If the wedges are too wide, cut them down slightly with a band saw or hand saw .

• Pound the wedges into the handles with a hammer until the handle is solid in the hole. The wedge will not go all the way down into the handle.

• Trim the wedge flush with the seat. A flush saw, which has an offset handle, is the best tool for this (figure F).

• Let the glue dry completely before adding the cross braces.

• Position a hammer handle against two opposite legs, about halfway up the leg (figure G). The brace will attach to the left of one leg and the right of the opposite leg. Mark the handle at the desired length and cut both handles to fit.

• Re-position a handle halfway up the legs, against the right side of one leg and the left side of the other. Making sure to keep the handle level, drill pilot holes and attach the brace with screws. Repeat the process to attach the other brace to the other two legs (figure H).

• Finish the stool with a light sanding. Michele Beschen likes to stain the seat with a darker stain and leave the legs natural.