DIY Network

Epoxy Layered Dolls Visit DIY's Craft Lab to learn how to create an Epoxy Layered Doll. From "Craft Lab" episode DCLB-219

Guest Jessica Acosta from DollProject.com joins host Jennifer Perkins and shows how to get started on an Epoxy Layered Doll by demonstrating how to mold the face using clay and little baby powder.

The next step is making the body — aluminum foil and wire covered in clay are the main components to this portion of the project. The doll is completed by painting the face and finishing the body with powder and imbedded objects to add color and texture.

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Guest Jessica Acosta creates unique and funky layered dolls that are inspired by the Pacific Northwest's nature.

Epoxy Layered Dolls

Project designed by Jessica Acosta.

Materials:

polymer clay in flesh tone
talcum powder
doll-sized face mold
needle or straight pin
sturdy wire in any gauge
acrylic paints (brown, peach, optional eye color)
paintbrushes (small, medium and large)
paper towel
aluminum foil (regular kitchen variety)
wooden stand of base (optional)
Aves Apoxie Sculpt
embellishments and fun stuff (beads, baubles, shells, costume jewelry, bits of wire, fabrics, yarn, small toys — anything you want to use in your layers)
Pearl-Ex powdered pigment
Fabri-Tac glue Beacon (or another tacky glue)
rubbing alcohol
cotton swabs (the firmer cotton is better)

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

1. To create the doll head, condition flesh-tone clay using your hands. Prepare the mold by dusting with talcum powder (this will help the clay come out). Push clay into the mold and pull straight out (figure A).

2. Use a needle or pin to enhance the face features (indent the nostrils and mouth line further, add more expression , etc.)

3. Bake the molded clay according to manufacturer's instructions.

4. To construct the body, wrap a length of wire around your finger so that it forms a loop. Secure the loop by twisting the wire a few times. Place the loop portion onto the back of your molded face (figure B). Cover the twisted portion of the loop with clay to form a neck. Blend all the seams so they are smooth.

5. Build up the body using tin foil. Start out with a wide flat base and taper up to a thin top where the head and upper torso will go. Use your needle to make a hole at the top of the foil body.

6. Insert the stem of the wire into the hole you created in your foil body. If the wire is too long, give it a trim so it fits nicely into the body. Add clay to the base of the neck and the top of the foil to form the upper torso. Push the clay firmly onto the foil so that the clay and foil will be firmly attached (figure C).

7. Bake the whole thing standing upright and according to the clay manufacturer's instructions. Allow the piece to cool in the stove.

8. To paint the face, mix a few drops of water with brown paint and apply to the clay surface using the medium paintbrush. Quickly wipe the paint away using a paper towel to give the face a nice wash of color. The paint will seep into the features and add depth (figure D).

9. Use the peach to paint on the lip color and dab a small amount onto the cheek area using your finger. Use additional brown for the eye color.

10. Mix the two part Aves Apoxie Sculpt and coat all the exposed foil. If the doll has a base, use more sculpt medium to secure the foil body to the base.

    Tip: Dip your fingers into a cup of water to help make the sculpting medium easier to control — it will be sticky when first mixed (figure E).

11. Embed collage items into the Apoxie Sculpt before it cures (figure F. You will have about an hour to add items before the sculpting medium starts to harden. Add more Apoxie sculpt for larger collage items if necessary. Cover the polymer clay body with Apoxie Sculpt and embellishments as desired to form the bodice of the layered doll's costume.

12. Add texture to the remaining exposed Apoxie Sculpt using a needle or your fingers.

13. Using the large paintbrush, coat the Apoxie Sculpt portion of the body with Pearl-Ex. The pigments will stick to the still curing Apoxie Sculpt. After the figure is coated, blow off any excess powder.

    Note: Work with Pearl-Ex outdoors if possible. Tiny Pearl-Ex particles fly all around the air and shouldn't be inhaled.

14. Using more Apoxie Sculpt and foil (if desired), add hair and/or a hat to the top of the doll. Allow the Apoxie Sculpt to dry for 12-24 hours before completing the doll.

15. Use Fabri-tac glue to add any soft materials such as yarn for hair.

16. The final step is to use a bit of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab to clean up any parts of the doll (figure G). (For example, you may wish to remove Pearl-Ex from the surfaces of embedded objects to allow them to stand out further.)

RESOURCES :

Apoxie Sculpt
Website: www.avesstudio.com

GUESTS :

Jessica Acosta
E-mail: Jessica@dollproject.com
Website: www.dollproject.com