Wiring the Track DIY Model Railroads host Ted Brown and model railroader Pam Lindsey show how to wire track. Materials:
HO-scale transformer
Power rail joiners
Rail nippers
Wire strippers
Flathead screwdriver
Eraser-type track-cleaning tool
Power drill, with 1" and 1/4" bits
8" two-part wire
Safety glasses
Soldering iron and solder
- Position a transformer at any corner of your layout, in a spot where you don't plan to build anything. Be sure it's close to the track but not close enough to interfere with the operation of the train. The transformer is positioned close to the track to minimize exposed wires. It's important to make sure there's enough room between the power pack and the track so that the power-supply cord doesn't interfere with the train's smooth operation.
- Drill two holes with a 1/4" bit -- on one side of the track, next to the rail, and between the ties, directly across from the transformer box. Drill through the cork rail bed, the insulation board and the plywood to create a hole so the wires can be run under the board and out of sight.
- Using a hobby knife, cut a 2" by 2" square from the insulation board down to the plywood, approximately 2" behind the transformer. Remove and discard the square of insulation.
- Using a 1" bit, drill two holes side by side and overlapping through the plywood in the area exposed when the 2" by 2" piece of insulation was removed (figure A). The hole must be large enough to accommodate the power-supply cord so it can be dropped through the hole and under the table.
- Take approximately 8" of flexible two-part wire, and pull the wires apart. Do not remove the plastic covering on the wires. Feed one wire through one of the holes drilled beside the track in step 2, keeping approximately 1 1/2" of wire above the table. Repeat with the second wire on the other side of the track (figure B).
- Use wire strippers to remove approximately 1/2" of the plastic coating at the end of each of the wires that remain above the table. With a soldering iron and solder, touch the side of the rail approximately two railroad ties away from the spot where the wire comes up through the holes in the table (figure C), and leave a small drop of solder on the side of the rail. Solder on the outside of the rail, and don't leave solder on the top of the rail, as it would make the train derail.
- Touch the solder and the soldering iron to the stripped end of each wire, leaving a small drop of solder on each wire. Turn the wire horizontal with the rail, and join the wire and the rail (figure D) with the soldering iron, making sure the wire is even with the rail. Repeat the process on the other side of the rail, using the second stripped wire.
- Now you'll need to attach the other ends of the wires to the back of the transformer box. Bring the wires from under the table through the hole you created in it. Use wire strippers to remove approximately 1/2" of the plastic covering from the end of each wire. Twist the individual strands from each exposed wire (figure E) over each other. Bend the end of each wire to create a small hook, which will make it easier to place the wire on the back of the transformer. Position each hook so it's facing the direction in which the screw rotates when tightened. With wire wrapped around each screw, under the head, tighten the screws (figure F) at the spot marked "variable DC." Transformers vary greatly, so make sure to read the directions in the owner's manual.
- Run the power-supply cord from the back of the transformer through the hole in the table (figure G). Before plugging in the power supply, use an eraser-type track cleaner to remove any solder or particles that may have gotten on the track. Brush the track cleaner back and forth along the track a few times, making sure follow the rails.
- Plug the power supply into a standard household outlet, and test the track with the first run of your engine (figure H).
Designing a Layout DIY Model Railroads host Ted Brown and model railroader Jay Caplan discuss how to design a layout. It's wise to plan your layout even before laying the track. Using a black marker, begin by drawing the main components of the layout on the insulation board (figure I). There's no need to create elaborate renderings -- just sketch the location of mountains, lakes, rivers, buildings, roads and other major components (figure J). Be creative but not too ambitious: you'll have to build or buy everything you add to the layout. Our layout was designed to have a 1950s theme and includes a downtown with numerous buildings, a mountain and quarry, a tunnel, a lake, a bridge, two industrial structures and a home. It features two turnouts and two spurs. Adding a Bridge DIY Model Railroads host Ted Brown and model railroader Jay Caplan explain how to add a bridge to a layout. Materials:
9" plate-girder bridge with built-in track
Four rail joiners
Hobby knife
Rail nippers
Hobby saw
Black marker
- Place the bridge on the top of the track precisely where you want it to be located. Center the bridge at the point where the lake crosses under the track, placing it so the ends of the bridge and the lake shore are equidistant on each side (figure K).
- Hold the bridge in place. Mark the insulation board where the ends of the bridge meet the track (figure L). The marks indicate where the regular track must be removed and the bridge track put in place. Set the bridge aside.
- Using rail nippers, cut the track on both rails at the exact location where you marked the ends of the bridge (figure M). Rail nippers can be used to create ends of two different types. One side of the nippers cuts a beveled edge; the other side, a straight edge. Use the straight side of the nippers to cut straight edges so the joint will be tight. Cut all four rails, and remove the section of track to make way for the bridge track. Leave the roadbed in place. If you have trouble removing the glued-down track from the roadbed, carefully insert a hobby saw between the track and the roadbed and cut off the track (figure N). Don't throw the track away: you may use it later.
- Use a hobby saw to remove the roadbed at both ends, cutting through it approximately 3/4" in from the end of the track toward the lake (figure O). It's important to leave 3/4" of roadbed, which will support the end of the bridge once it's connected to the rest of the track. Remove the cut section of roadbed from the insulation board to create an open space under the bridge.
- Now remove the lake. Using a hobby knife, cut into the insulation board, following the lines drawn previously for the lake. Remove the lake-shaped piece of insulation board (figure P), and save it for future construction.
- To join the bridge to the track, remove the small plastic connection between the rail and the tie (figure Q). Use rail nippers to clip the tiny piece holding the rail to the tie, but don't remove the tie. After removing the connection, you'll use a rail joiner to make a clean connection between the bridge and the track rails.
- To connect the bridge track to the track on the roadbed, insert a rail joiner at each rail at both ends of the bridge. Join the bridge to the roadbed track at one end of the lake, gently working the rail joiner onto the track rail. To complete the circuit, fit the other end of the bridge to the track in the same manner. Gently lift the track to create enough space to angle the bridge rail joiners onto the rail (figure R). This completes the circuit: the train can now run across the bridge.
Adding Ballast DIY Model Railroads host Ted Brown and model railroader Kent McBee explain how to add ballast to the track for a realistic look. Materials:
HO-scale ballast
12 ounce plastic or foam cup
Plastic spoon
Small spray bottle
White glue
Water
Liquid detergent
Small school paintbrush
1" paintbrush
- Fill a spray bottle with water and two drops of liquid detergent, and shake well. Remove the cap from a bottle of glue. Pour half the glue into a resealable container such as a clean margarine tub, cover, and set aside. Refill the half-empty glue bottle with water and two drops of liquid detergent, replace the closed cap, and shake until mixed. This is "ballast mix" glue. Set the mixture aside.
- Pour ballast into the plastic cup. Using a plastic spoon, carefully apply ballast to the track between the rails and along both sides of the track, generously covering everything but the rails.
- Shape the ballast to the contours of the cork roadbed with the paintbrushes, gently brushing ballast between the ties and covering the entire roadbed (figure S). Shape the ballast on both sides of the track, covering the entire roadbed.
- Use a spray bottle to spritz the ballast with the water/detergent mixture. Don't spray the ballast directly: instead, spritz to create a rain-shower effect. This will help the glue mixture soak in.
- Run a generous bead of ballast-mix glue down the center of the track, between the rails. Then squeeze the glue mixture onto the ballast on both sides of the track. Depending on the amount of ballast you've used, you may need to repeat this procedure to glue all the ballast in place. Allow the glue mixture to dry for at least 12 hours before repeating.
- After the ballast is dry, run a fingernail along the inside of the track to remove any ballast that may have gotten stuck there. Make certain the top of the rails is free of ballast.
- Model railroaders recommend purchasing an engine and the largest car you plan to run on the track before building the layout. Once you have these cars, determine whether you can run them on your layout without derailing them.
Resources Model trains, accessories and custom layouts
Dave Caplan or Jay Caplan
c/o The Train Works
10601 San Jose Blvd.
Suite 216
Jacksonville, FL 32257
904-880-1002, fax 904-880-1006
E-mail: tranwrks@bellsouth.com
Web: www.trainworksjax.com Atlas Model Railroad Company Inc.
378 Florence Ave.
Hillside, NJ 07205
908-687-0880
E-mail: atlasrr@atlasrr.com
Web: www.atlasrr.com/ Railroad Model Craftsman magazine
Web: rrmodelcraftsman.com/ Model Railroader magazine
Web: www.kalmbach.com/mr/modelrailroader.html
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Powering Up |
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