Susan Kaljhe and her guest, Alicia Wieting, demonstrate a technique for fashioning a dress with a swingy tiered hem. The desing features complimentary fabrics finished with merrow stitching on the tiers. Materials:
Serger for merrow stitching
Kraft paper for pattern
Heavy paper for scallop template
Tape
Ruler
Tailors chalk
Pins
Paper scissors
Fabric scissors
Tearaway stabilizer
Thread and different decorative thread options
Different layers of fabric
Pattern Preparation - Make a swatch of merrow stitching on each of the different fabrics you intend to use. For different optional looks you may want to use one of the following:
- Wooly nylon thread (often referred to as yarn)
- Heavier decorative thread
- Regular thread.
- Experiment with the use of stabilizer (tearaway) to help control the merrow stitches -- or don't use the tearaway and instead slightly stretch out the fabric as it's sewn. This will create a lettuce effect to the hem. Contrast and compare which hem looks best on the fabric.
- Plan the proportion of the different layers by arranging the swatches showing the distance of one fabric compared with the next layer (figure A). This is a helpful guide when drafting the pattern.
Making the Pattern
- On a piece of heavy paper, play with different shapes for the scallops and then cut a template to make it easier to draw scallops (figure B).
- Trace the original pattern on to paper and transfer all pertinent information, such as grainline, darts, notches, punch holes or pocket placement information (figure C).
- Write "inside layer" on the pattern (or use a color code) to clearly identify the pattern piece (figure D). This will help you avoid mixing up patterns. The longest layer pattern will be made first (inside closest to the body), middle layer next and then the shortest layer pattern (the outer layer).
- Use the scallop template and draw on the "finished' point of the hem. Since the merrow stitch is the hem there is no is no need for a hem allowance. Then cut new pattern shape.
- Trace the new pattern on to a new piece of paper and mark it "second layer" (or use a color code). Make sure to transfer the grainline and all important pattern information.
- Draw a shorter scallop hem with the template, by measuring fabric swatch that was decided in the preparation stage.
- Draw lines the length of pattern to indicate where to slash and add fullness. Cut along the lines from hem up to the sew line, but do not cut through the seam allowance(figure E). Then clip seam allowance from the outside of the pattern to come near the original but not separate.
- Open the cut pattern to approximately 1" to 2" to the desired fullness (figure F), and tape opening to piece of paper. Blend scallop hemline with template.
- Add fullness the same way to other slash lines.
- Add fullness to the front and back pieces evenly. If 4" is added to the front, then 4" should be added to the back.
- For the outer layer, trace off second layer and repeat steps 6 through 14.
- Cut out dress using new pattern.
Guest:
Alicia Wieting
Lecturer/Pattern Teacher at Sewing Arts Center, Santa Monica, CA
E-mail: apweiting@yahoo.com
RESOURCES :
Fabric Savvy: The Essential Guide for Every Sewer
Model: 1561582670
Author: Sandra Betzina
Order this title from Amazon.com.
Couture Sewing Techniques
Model: 1561584975
Author: Claire B. Shaeffer
(January, 2001)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Easy Guide to Serging Fine Fabrics (Sewing Companion Library)
Model: 1561580902
Author: Kitty Benton
(April, 1997)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Easy Guide to Sewing Linings (Sewing Companion Library)
Model: 1561582255
Author: Connie Long
(June, 1998)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
High Fashion Sewing Secrets: A Step-By-Step Guide to Sewing Stylish Seams, Buttonholes, Pockets ...
Model: 1579544150
Author: Claire B. Shaeffer
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Rodale Press
Red Oak, IA 51591
Phone: 515-242-0282
Linen and Cotton: Classic Sewing Techniques for Great Results (Focus on Fabric)
Model: 1561582506
Author: Susan Khalje
(May, 1999)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Sewing Secrets from the Fashion Industry: Proven Methods to Help you Sew Like the Pros
Model: 0857969801
Author: Susan Huxley, Editor
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Rodale Press
Red Oak, IA 51591
Phone: 515-242-0282
Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing
Model: 1561582646
Author: David Page Coffin
(September, 1998)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Customize Your Sewing Patterns for a Perfect Fit
Model: 157990324X
Author: Sally McCann
(May, 2002)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Lark Books / Altamont Press
Website: www.larkbooks.com
Every Sewer's Guide to the Perfect Fit: Customizing Your Patterns for a Sensational Look
Model: 1887374434
Author: Mary Morris and Sally McCann
(September, 1997)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Lark Books / Altamont Press
Website: www.larkbooks.com
Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using Any Pattern
Model: 0935278435
Author: Pati Palmer and Marta Alto
(February, 1998)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Palmer/Pletsch Publishing
Portland, OR 97212
Phone: 503-274-0687
Fax: 503-274-1377
Power Sewing: Step-By-Step
Model: 1561583634
Author: Sandra Betzina
(August, 2000)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Sewing Basics: Creating a Stylish Wardrobe with Step-By-Step Techniques
Model: 1561582662
Author: Patricia Moyes
(May, 1999)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com
Sewing Arts Center
Sewing Arts Center
Santa Monica, CA 90405
Phone: 310-450-4300
Website: www.sewingartscenter.com
GUESTS :
Alicia Wieting
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