Building the Launch Deck for a Tire Obstacle Course Brad Staggs, host of DIY Playgrounds, explains the materials and techniques used to build an obstacle course from old tires. He also gives instructions for using some of the same materials to build a combination tire swing/porch swing. Note: Project plans may be viewed with  Materials: Pressure-treated pine lumber: 2" x 6", 2" x 4", 4" x 4", 5/4" decking boards
Old tires
Spray paint
Pea gravel
Fast-drying concrete
Galvanized screws
Galvanized lag bolts
Galvanized 2" bolts, washers and nuts
Galvanized eyebolts, washers and nuts
Joist hangers
Plastic-coated steel cable
Construction adhesive
Foam pipe insulation
Duct tape
Landscaping mesh
Staple gun and staples
Circular saw and beam-cutter attachment
Power drill and screwdriver attachment
Reciprocating saw
Cable cutters or bolt cutters
Router or belt sander
Two-person power auger or posthole digger
Shovel
Speed square
Carpenter's level
Tape measure
Utility knife
Pencil
Safety equipment: safety glasses, dust mask, work gloves, protective clothing
Playground projects will be exposed to the elements, so use materials that resist moisture, rot and insect infestation. Pressure-treated lumber lasts longer than ordinary lumber because it has been specially processed to resist decay and insects. Likewise, nails, screws and other fasteners that are galvanized (zinc-coated) resist corrosion and are less likely to cause rust stains in the wood. Because pressure-treated lumber has been processed with strong chemical preservatives, you should wear work gloves, long pants and other protective clothing when working with it. When cutting it, wear safety glasses and a dust mask. Dispose of scraps and sawdust properly, keeping them away from children and pets. Never burn the scraps. When working with power tools, wear protective eyeglasses and ear protection, and follow the manufacturer's safety recommendations closely. This project involves digging, so before you begin you should contact your utility company to make sure you won't damage any buried water, gas or sewer lines. Old tires may be obtained from tire-recycling centers, tire stores, junkyards, etc. Look for tires that are all close to the same size. Before you begin to build, you may want to spray the tires with degreaser and hose them off thoroughly to remove grease and dirt. To begin work on an obstacle course, choose a location, and lay out nine tires in a three-by-three pattern. Use the tires as a reference for installing the launch deck. - Measure the distance across the square (figure A) to give a rough idea for the length of the launch deck. (Ours is 7' long.) Use spray paint to mark a reference line on the ground along one side of the tires for positioning the launch deck and on the opposite side for positioning the obstacle wall.
- Use a posthole digger or two-person auger (figure B) to dig the first two holes for the 4" by 4" posts. The holes should be parallel, 7' apart and adjacent to the area where the tires are laid out. Place 4" by 4" posts in the holes and fill with fast-setting concrete. Use a level to plumb the posts.
- Dig the third and fourth holes so they're positioned with their centers 24" behind the first two holes. Place posts in those holes and use a straightedge and square to make sure the posts are square with each other (figure C).
- With all four posts in place, make sure the supports for the framework are square so they'll form flat surfaces onto which the rim joints may be attached. For precise placement, run a string between the outside surfaces of the posts, then place a square adjacent to the string and surface of the post (figure D). If the square makes good contact with both the string and the wood, you'll have a flat mounting surface.
- If the tops of the posts are at different heights, measure up 18" from the ground on the shortest post. This will give a reference for attaching the first rim joist. After all the rim joists are leveled and attached, the excess height on the taller 4" by 4" posts will be cut off.
- Measure the long side, from the outside edges from post to post, to determine the length needed for the rim joist. Measure and cut 2" by 6" rim joists to length. Do the same for the short sides, taking into account the width of the newly installed 2" by 6" lumber.
- Position, level and attach the rim joists with galvanized screws, then secure them with lag bolts.
- Cut the excess height off the 4" by 4" uprights (figure E).
- The floor-decking boards will span 30" across the base, so install a single 2" by 6" center joist running lengthwise inside the frame (figure F). Using joist hangers will make attaching the joist much easier.
- Using galvanized screws, attach 5/4" decking boards on top of the frame, running perpendicular to the center joist and long rim joists (figure G). You may need to rip the last decking board lengthwise to get a perfect fit.
Obstacle Wall The obstacle wall will be placed slightly inside the reference line you spray-painted on the side of the tires opposite the launch deck. Moving the wall in by about 6" will allow for the distance you lose when the tire ladder is suspended at a slight upward angle. A gravel pit, to provide a softer landing spot, will be placed on the far side of the obstacle wall. - Dig holes and anchor three 4" by 4" posts in concrete just inside the spray-painted line, aligning the end posts with the outer edges of the launch deck and measuring from the deck to make sure that the wall is parallel to the deck (figure H). Center a third post between the outer two. Use a string and level -- as with the deck posts -- to make sure the posts are plumb with each other to provide a flat surface for mounting the wall.
- Measure up 4' from the ground on one of the posts, and use a square to draw a horizontal reference line.
- Measure and cut a 2" by 6" board to the width of the wall. (Our wall is 7 1/2' wide).
- Level the top board at the 4' reference mark (figure I), and attach it to the post with 3" galvanized screws.
- Cut and attach 2" by 6" boards all the way to ground level to complete the wall (figure J).
- Cut off any excess height on the 4" by 4" uprights.
- Install a 2" by 6" top board on the other side of the obstacle wall. You'll install a 2" by 6" top cap (figure K) later, after attaching the tire ladder to the obstacle wall with eyebolts.
Gravel Landing Surface Construct a box for the gravel pit (figure L), using 2" by 6" side boards cut to 4' 10 1/2" so that when the end board is added, the finished length is 5'. - Connect the sides and end board with butt joints, and attach the two side pieces to the obstacle wall, flush with the back of the wall.
- Using staples and a staple gun, install landscaping mesh to prevent grass and weeds from growing up through the gravel.
- To cushion the wooden edges of the box, cut foam pipe insulation lengthwise, and attach it to the top edges of the 2" by 6" boards with a bead of weatherproof construction adhesive (figure M). Miter-cut the ends of the insulation before attaching it (figure N).
Suspending the Tires The tire ladder is constructed from nine tires in a three-by-three square, connected with galvanized bolts, nuts and washers. The structure is suspended between the launch deck and obstacle wall with steel cables. The hardware used to attach the cable to the obstacle wall (figure O) consists of an eyebolt, two nuts and two washers for each connection. (We used three additional nuts and a washer as spacers to form a solid, weight-bearing support against the inside of the obstacle wall. This is one solution if you're unable to find eyebolts with threading all the way up the neck.) The nut and washer on the outside of the wall, used for fastening the eyebolt, are recessed into the wood to eliminate sharp edges (figure P). The eyebolt for connecting the cable to the launch deck (figure Q shows a cutaway view) attaches through one side of the launch deck. The washer and nut on the opposing side hold the eyebolt in place and permit tightening the cable to create sufficient tension to hold the tires tightly suspended. The steel cable, protected with a plastic sleeve, is connected with cable clamps. Use two clamps per connection (figure R). Use cable cutters or bolt cutters to cut the steel cable to the proper lengths. Attach the tires to each other, using a bolt with a washer inserted on one side (figure S shows a cutaway view) and a nut and a washer connecting on the other. The washers help keep the bolt from pulling through the rubber tread. - Drill holes in the tire treads, and connect a row of three tires, using bolts, nuts and washers. Repeat the process to create two more rows.
- On one of the sets of tires, drill holes that will accept the steel cable (figure T). On each tire, drill two sets of two holes opposite each other. Repeat the process on one other set of tires. While the drill is at hand, drill some drainage holes to let rainwater escape.
- Thread the cable through the holes, leaving at least 18" of cable extending from both ends (figure U).
- Attach the ends to the first two eyelets on the obstacle wall, using cable clamps.
- Have a friend help lift the other ends of the tires while you attach the opposite ends of the cables to the launch deck (figure V). On the opposite end of the deck, repeat the process for the second set of tires.
- Lift the center section of tires, and connect them to the outside rows with bolts and washers.
After attaching the tire ladder, install the top cap on the obstacle wall. You may want to round off the corners of the top cap with a router or belt sander. For extra safety, cover the metal hardware with foam pipe insulation, and attach it with duct tape or other weatherproof tape (figure W). Fill the pit with pea gravel. Spread any leftover gravel on the other side of the obstacle wall, under the tire ladder. Backyard Swing Old tires and some of the same materials used for an obstacle course may be used to fashion a distinctive swing set. Materials: Pressure-treated lumber: 4" x 6", 6" x 6"
Old tires
Fast-setting concrete
Galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts
Galvanized chain and lockable links
Galvanized eye bolts and swivel connectors
4' porch-swing
Beam cutter or reciprocating saw
Power drill and bits
- Using a reciprocating saw or beam cutter, notch out 4" by 6" cradles in the end of two 6" by 6" beams (figure X).
- Place the two 6" by 6" uprights in the ground, spaced 6' apart, and set them in fast-setting concrete. Use the techniques described above to make sure the uprights are straight and plumb.
- Ask a friend to help lift the 4" by 6" crossbeam into the cradles of the 6" by 6" uprights (figure Y). Make sure the overhang is equal on both ends.
- Use a large bit to drill completely through the 6" by 6" upright and 4" by 6" beam, and insert carriage bolts (at least 7" long) with nuts and washers to secure the beam (figure Z).
- To install a standard tire swing, drill a hole, and insert an eyebolt into the tread (figure AA). Secure it with a washer and nut. Run a chain through the eye, and secure it with a lockable link (figure BB).
- Create a toddler swing by taking a section of tire and turning it inside out. Drill holes, then feed chain through the tread on both ends. Secure with lockable links.
- Connect the chains on the finished swings, using swivel connectors hooked into eyebolts attached to the 4" by 6" crossbeam.
RESOURCES :
Georgia-Pacific Information
For product information, click here.
For more Georgia-Pacific contact information, click here.
Georgia-Pacific Corporation
Atlanta , GA 30303
Phone: 404-652-4000
Fax: 404-230-5624
Website: www.gpplywood.com
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Tire Toys |
|
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
