Building the Base Frame and Seats Brad Staggs, host of DIY Playgrounds, gives step-by-step instructions for building a sandbox for a children's playground. Materials: Pressure-treated pine lumber in the following sizes: 2" x 8", 2" x 6" and 2" x 4"
Pressure-treated plywood (for roof)
Landscaping mesh
Play sand
Staple gun and staples
Circular saw
Power drill and screwdriver attachment
Speed square
Torpedo level
Tape measure
Pencil
3" galvanized screws
Click HERE to view project plans and diagrams. Playground projects such as this sandbox will be exposed to the elements, so use materials that are resistant to moisture, rot and insect infestation. Pressure-treated lumber lasts longer than ordinary lumber because it has been specially processed to resist decay and insects. Likewise, nails, screws and other fasteners that are galvanized (zinc-coated) resist corrosion and are less likely to cause rust stains in the wood. Because pressure-treated lumber has been processed with strong chemical preservatives, wear work gloves, long pants and other protective clothing when working with it. When cutting this type of lumber, wear safety glasses and a dust mask. Dispose of scraps and sawdust properly, keeping them away from children and pets. Never burn the scraps. When working with power tools, wear protective eyeglasses and ear protection, and follow the manufacturer's safety recommendations closely. - Select a level area of the yard for the sandbox. If there's not a perfectly level spot, even out an area using fill-dirt or gravel. You can also use pressure-treated wood scraps to help level the base.
- The base is a 5' square connected by butt joints. Use a circular saw and a speed square (as a straightedge) to cut four 2" x 8" boards to length. Cut two of the boards to 5' and two to 57" -- the shorter lengths allowing for the width of the two sides when forming the butt joint.
- Assemble the base, using three 3" galvanized screws at each corner (figure A). Drilling pilot holes before driving the screws will help prevent the wood from splitting.
- Use a staple gun to attach a "floor" of landscaping mesh to the inside of the frame (figure B) to prevent grass and weeds from growing up through the sand.
- To build the bench seats, measure from corner to corner inside the base. Transfer this measurement to two 2" by 6" boards and cut them to that length with a circular saw. Using screws, install the two seats so that they are flush with the top of the base (figure C). Next, take an inside measurement from seat to seat, cut two 2" by 6" boards to that length, and install them in the same manner.
- For the corner seats, place a speed square inside the corner of the bench seat and lay a short section of 2" by 8" lumber (you may also use 2" by 10" or 2" by 12") across the corner, flush against the speed square (figure D). With a pencil, mark a line on the bottom of the board (figure E) along each side. Turn the board over, and cut along the lines. Attach the corner seat with screws, flush with the outside of the frame (figure F). Repeat for the other three seats.
Building the Roof A roof over the sandbox functions not so much to keep out rain but to provide shade and help keep out leaves and branches. The roof structure consists of two uprights, crossbars, fascia boards, a ridgepole, rafters and exterior-grade plywood roofing. - Cut two 2" by 4" boards to a length of 5 1/2' to make the uprights that will support the roof. Before attaching the first upright, find the center point on one of the sides. Also measure and make a mark 6" down from the top of the baseboard, on opposite sides. Align the bottom of an upright at each mark. Using a square to make sure each upright is plumb and clamps to hold it in place, attach it to the outside wall of the frame with screws (figure G). Repeat on the opposite side.
- Measure down 12" from the top of each upright, and mark a horizontal line, where the crossbars will be attached. Cut two 2" by 4" boards to a length of 5' -- the same dimension as the width of the sandbox. Find the center of the uprights and crossbars, and attach the crossbars with screws at the bottom of the marked line (figure H).
- Cut a 5' ridgepole from a 2" by 4", and attach it between the uprights with screws (figure I).
- Attach 2" by 4" fascia boards to the crossbars with screws. The fascia boards should be 5' 3" long -- the length of the frame plus 3" added to include the width of the uprights that sit outside the box.
Note: Determining the pitch of a roof and measuring and attaching rafters are more complex procedures. To help make the job easier, consult a Rafter-Angle-Square Instruction Manual -- a thorough instructional guide that generally comes with a quick square at the time of purchase. (See Resources, below, for additional information.) - To measure and make cut lines for an outside-corner rafter, position a 2" by 4" adjacent to the upright and cross bar, extending from the ridgepole to the fascia board (figure J). Use a torpedo level to draw a vertical line matching the center line of the upright. With the piece sitting flush, mark the cut for the second angle. The two rafters should butt evenly (figure K) and attach flush to the crossbar with screws. Use this technique for all four corner rafters.
- To prepare the center rafters, lay a 2" by 4" so that it extends across the ridgepole and fascia. With a quick square, measure the angle, and make vertical marks (figure L). Cut the 2" by 4" with angles that will allow the center rafter to be attached between the ridgepole and fascia. Using screws, attach the rafter between the ridgepole and fascia board. Allow the rafter to extend about 1" above the fascia (figure M) so the plywood will lie flat.
- To prepare the plywood roofing panels, measure the distance from the top of the ridgepole to the outside of the fascia board to determine the width and from the outer edge of one outside rafter to the outer edge of the other to determine the length. Using a circular saw, cut two pieces of plywood to those dimensions for the two halves of your roof. Position the plywood, and attach the first piece to the ridgepole and rafters with screws. Butt the second piece up to the first, and attach it in the same manner.
- Sand the roof surface before applying finish. Prime, then paint the roof with exterior latex, or attach shingles.
Installing a Protective Cover A retractable canvas cover is a nice addition to help keep the sand clean and prevent animals from getting in. Materials: Canvas cloth (53" by 6 1/2')
58" length of 3/4" PVC pipe
Short sections of PVC: 1 1/4", 2 1/2" and 3"
PVC straight connectors (couplings)
Two PVC elbows and two end caps
1" metal pipe-straps
PVC cement
Two wooden mounting blocks cut from 2" x 8" lumber
Grommets
Short screws and washers
Eyebolts
- Attach mounting blocks (1 1/4" blocks cut from a piece of 2" by 8") to the outside of one side of the sandbox. Mount them about 1 1/2" from each edge.
- Secure the pipe straps flush with the top of the blocks, and insert the 58" length of PVC pipe through the straps (figure N).
- Attach an end cap to one end of the pipe, using PVC cement. At the other end, construct a handle by attaching a coupling, a 1 1/4" length of pipe, an elbow, a 2 1/2" length of pipe, another elbow, a 3" length of pipe and an end cap (figure O).
- Attach the canvas cover to the 58" length of pipe with short screws and washers. On the other end of the canvas, install two or three small grommets, available at fabric stores. The cover, extended over the sandbox, attaches to the other side with short pieces of rope that are tied through the grommets and into eyebolts on the outside of the sandbox (figure P).
- Now that the sandbox, roof and canvas cover are completed, you can add play sand -- a specially prepared sand that is clean and safe for children's use. For a sandbox 5' square, you'll need about 15 cubic feet (or 20 bags) of sand.
Scrap-Lumber Project: Seesaw With just a few simple materials -- most of which you may have left over from building a sandbox -- you can add a seesaw, or teeter-totter, to your playground. Materials:
2" x 8" and 2" x 4" pressure-treated lumber
1" galvanized pipe
1/4" metal dowels
Quick-drying concrete
Marine rope
Circular saw
Optional: posthole digger
Jigsaw
Liquid NailsB. construction adhesive
Drill and bits
Galvanized screws
- Cut a piece of 2" by 8" lumber to the desired length (about 9') to form the seat board. Cut a piece of 2" by 4" to the same length to form the brace board.
- Cut two sections of 2" by 8" lumber to 35" for the uprights of the seesaw. Sand the edges smooth.
- Dig holes for the uprights, using a posthole digger if desired. Secure the uprights in the ground at least 17" deep, leaving 18" aboveground. The uprights should be set about 7 3/4" apart to accept a 2" by 8" seat board between them. Set them securely in the ground with quick-drying concrete.
- Using a jigsaw, cut out a U-shaped notch 2 1/4" deep in the top of each upright. The notches will accept the pivot bar made of 1" galvanized pipe (figure Q).
- Cut a U-shaped notch 1 1/4" deep and 1 1/4" wide in the center of the brace board.
- Mark a line lengthwise down the center of the seat board, and, using Liquid Nails construction adhesive, attach the brace board with the notched side down. Reinforce with galvanized screws, driven from the top of the seat board every 6" along its length.
- Position a piece of galvanized pipe in the notched area. The pipe should be long enough to allow a 1 1/2" overhang on each side. Add pipe straps to further secure the pivot bar (figure R).
- Drill 1/4" holes in both uprights to allow the placement of locking pins -- metal dowels that will keep the pivot bar in place (figure S).
- To make the handles, measure in 16" from the end of the seat board and 1 1/4" from the sides. Drill two 5/8"-diameter holes to accept marine-rope handles. Insert the rope, and tie knots in the ends to secure it (figure T). Singe the ends of the rope to keep them from fraying.
RESOURCES :
Johnson Professional Rafter-Angle-Square Instruction Manual
Johnson Level & Tool Mfg. Co. Inc.
Mequon, WI 53092-4456
Phone: 414-242-1161
Fax: 414-242-0189
Website: www.johnsonlevel.com
Georgia-Pacific Information
For product information, click here.
For more Georgia-Pacific contact information, click here.
Georgia-Pacific Corporation
Atlanta , GA 30303
Phone: 404-652-4000
Fax: 404-230-5624
Website: www.gpplywood.com
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Sandbox and Seesaw |
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