Building the Framework Brad Staggs, host of DIY Playgrounds, gives step-by-step instructions for building a fort and swing set. Note: Project plans may be viewed with  Materials: Pressure-treated lumber: 2" x 8", 2" x 6", 2" x 4", 2" x 2", 4" x 4", 4" x 6", and 5/4" x 6" deck boards
Pea gravel (4 to 5 tons)
Galvanized screws
Galvanized lag bolts
Galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts
Galvanized 1 1/2" pipe and threaded pipe bracket
Metal bracket to accept a 4" x 4"
Metal A-frame brackets
Swing-set kit
Circular saw and beam-cutter attachment
Power drill and screwdriver attachment
Speed square
Framing square
Carpenter's level
Line level
Tape measure
Pencil
Safety equipment: safety glasses, dust mask, work gloves, protective clothing
Playground projects such as this fort and swing set will be exposed to the elements, so use materials that resist moisture, rot and insect infestation. Pressure-treated lumber lasts longer than ordinary lumber because it has been specially processed to resist decay and insects. Likewise, nails, screws and other fasteners that are galvanized (zinc-coated) resist corrosion and are less likely to cause rust stains in the wood. Because pressure-treated lumber has been processed with strong chemical preservatives, you should wear work gloves, long pants and other protective clothing when working with it. When cutting it, wear safety glasses and a dust mask. Dispose of scraps and sawdust properly, keeping them away from children and pets. Never burn the scraps. When working with power tools, wear protective eyeglasses and ear protection, and follow the manufacturer's safety recommendations closely. Select a level area of the yard for the play area. If there's not a perfectly level spot, level off an area using fill-dirt or gravel. Pressure-treated wood scraps may also be used to level the base. The frame that outlines the fort (figure A) and contains the pea-gravel for the play surface is a 9' by 17' rectangle constructed from pressure-treated 2" by 8" boards attached with butt joints. If you can't find single boards long enough for the 17' side, butt two 8 1/2' boards end-to-end, and strengthen the joint with a center brace. Use 3" galvanized screws to attach the boards. Adding a bottom of landscaping mesh, stapled to the inside of the frame, will prevent grass and weeds from growing through the gravel. Tip: This project involves joining boards to form squared corners. A framing square is essential for building corners that form a perfect 90-degree angle. Insert the framing square inside the boards to be joined, and make sure that the metal square is completely in contact with the wood along the entire length of both legs of the square (figure B). Then place the frame outside the corner and make sure the metal makes good contact there as well. Adjust the placement of the wood until the angle is correct inside and out. This project involves cutting large pieces of lumber such as 4" by 4" and 4" by 6" boards, so you may want to use a beam-cutter attachment for your circular saw (figure C) rather than a hand saw. The attachment will make the job go much faster. - For the inner box that will form the foundation for the fort, measure a 6' by 6' area. Cut two 2" by 6" boards to 6' and two to 5' 9"; the shorter boards allow for the width of the sides. Butt the joints, and use a framing square to make sure the corners are perfect. Attach the boards with galvanized screws.
- Install 4" by 4" uprights, which will support the crow's nest, inside the corners of the box (figure D). This fort uses uprights of a standard 8' length, but you may use longer ones for a higher platform. Attach the uprights to the frame by first drilling pilot holes, then inserting galvanized lag bolts (figure E).
- Use lag bolts to attach 2" by 6" rim-joists, which will support the floor of the crow's nest (figure F). To determine the attachment point for the rim joists, measure down 37" from the top of the uprights (or the lowest of the uprights if the structure is not on perfectly level ground). After the 1" flooring planks are installed atop the rim joists, the distance from the floor to the top of the uprights will be 36". Use a carpenter's level to make sure the rim joists are installed level.
- For added support, install eight miter-cut 2" by 4" braces (figure G), two at each corner. Attach them between the upright and rim joist with galvanized screws. As you attach the braces, use a carpenter's level to make sure the legs are plumb.
Installing Floor, Railings and Balusters - Measure the inside distance between two opposing rim joists. The floor joists will be installed on 2' centers, so you'll need two joists for the 6' width. Cut two 2" by 6" boards to length, and install them with joist hangers and nails (figure H).
- Install 4" by 4" railing supports -- which will hold the railing and also frame the openings for the ladder, the slide and the fireman's pole -- by attaching them to the inside of the rim joists with lag bolts. The placement of the railing supports may vary, depending on what they'll be framing. In this case, the openings between the supports are 16" for the slide and 24" for the ladder and the fireman's pole. Attach the supports to the rim joists with lag bolts.
- Install the 5/4" deck boards perpendicular to the floor joists (figure I). Attach the flooring to the joists with galvanized decking screws. You may need to rip the last board lengthwise for an exact fit. Use a jigsaw to notch out the appropriate boards, as necessary, to fit around the corner uprights and railing supports.
- For additional support from underneath the floor, nail small blocks at joist level around the 4" by 4" posts (figure J).
- At this point, cut all uprights and railing supports to a uniform height measured from the flooring (we cut ours to 32", except for those on the side for the fireman's pole, which we left at 36").
- Install 2" by 4" railing onto the railing supports and uprights. To make the job easier, use a 2" by 4" as a spacer (figure K) to provide a uniform distance from the floor (for the lower railing) and from the top of the uprights (for the upper railing). Use a finish nailer to tack the railings in place, then reinforce with galvanized screws.
- The balusters are made from 2" by 2" pressure-treated lumber, cut to a uniform length of 30 1/2". The space between balusters must be small enough to prevent a child from getting his head stuck. For an interesting look, stagger them up and down (figure L).
- To do this, create a spacer from 2" by 4" pieces (figure M). Mount a 2" by 4" block to a longer piece of 2" by 4" so that the two are perpendicular. The vertical piece serves as a 3 1/2" spacer for the distance between balusters. The balusters in the "down" position are butted against the flooring; the ones in the "up" position are mounted so they align with the top of the horizontal 2" by 4" block when it's resting on top of the top railing (figure N). Attach the balusters with a nail gun.
Slide, Ladder and A-Frame Support - To attach the prefabricated slide in the slide opening (figure O), drill holes in the deck boards spaced to correspond to the holes in the slide. Attach the slide with carriage bolts fastened underneath with washers and nuts.
- To construct the ladder, measure from the deck of the crow's nest to the bottom of the lower frame. (Our measurement is 51".) Cut two 2" by 4"s to that length, and attach them with screws between the opening supports (figure P), using a level to make sure they're plumb. Cut two 2" by 4" pieces to 27" for the steps. Attach them with screws to the ladder sides, leaving 9" between each.
- You may want to install plastic handles (figure Q) inside the opening supports, just above the spot where the ladder is connected, to make climbing in and out of the crow's nest easier. Handles can be anchored with carriage bolts inserted all the way through the support and fastened with a nut.
- Install a 4" by 4" atop the uprights and opening supports on the side that will face the swing set (figure R). Recall that the uprights and supports were left at a height of 36" above the flooring, whereas the others were cut to 32". This allows more headroom for access to the fireman's pole. The 4" by 4" holds the crossbeam that extends to the A-frame and provides a support to which the swings and fireman's pole are attached. The crossbeam is a 4" by 6" attached to the top of the 4" by 4" with a metal bracket.
- Use a line level to mark and cut a scrap of wood to temporarily brace the 4" by 6" beam. Attach the brace to the 9' side of the perimeter board. Adding a temporary diagonal support, cut from a 2" by 4", will keep the brace sturdy while you work (figure S). Lift the 4" by 6" beam into place, and secure it to the bracket with screws (figure T).
- Stand a 2" by 8" on end at the perimeter, holding it up to the crossbeam, to determine the location on the beam for the A-frame bracket. Hold or clamp the bracket in place on the bottom of the 4" by 6" crossbeam, and attach it with screws (figure U). To find the length of the A-frame arms, hold a tape measure at the top of the bracket, aligned with the angled side of the bracket, and measure the distance from the top down to the perimeter board (figure V).
- Use a second A-frame bracket to mark the angled cuts for the A-frame arm. Align the bracket along the long edge of the board, and make a mark for the first cut along the top of the bracket (figure W). Take the measurement determined in step 6 for the length of the A-frame arms, and add about 3" so the finished arm will extend below the top of the perimeter board. Using that length as a reference, mark the same angle on the bottom end of the board. Holding the bracket back at the top end of the board (in the same position as before), make a mark at the center of the long edge. Draw a line perpendicular to your first line that intersects that point (figure X). With these cuts, the two arms of the A-frame should fit properly at the top (figure Y) and will be angled for the proper footing at the bottom. An A-frame cross brace will help make the structure more sturdy.
- Use 1 1/2" galvanized pipe that's threaded on the end to create a fireman's pole. Dig a hole with a posthole digger, and sink the unthreaded end into the ground about 2'. Fill the hole around the pipe. Connect the pipe at the top with a threaded bracket attached to the bottom of the crossbeam (figure Z).
Attaching Swings and Finishing Touches Plans and materials for a variety of swings are available as kits. Install them according to the manufacturer's instructions. Accessories such as plastic steering wheels, periscopes and other toys are also available. Use a palm sander or a belt sander to smooth any rough edges or remove any splinters left during construction. You'll need about 4 tons of pea gravel to create a 5" to 6" gravel base inside the framed perimeter of the play area. Use a rake to smooth the gravel and remove debris.
RESOURCES :
Georgia-Pacific Information
For product information, click here.
For more Georgia-Pacific contact information, click here.
Georgia-Pacific Corporation
Atlanta , GA 30303
Phone: 404-652-4000
Fax: 404-230-5624
Website: www.gpplywood.com
Swing-N-Slide
Swing N' Slide Inc.
Janesville, WI 53545
Fax: 800-755-7567
Website: www.swing-n-slide.com
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Fort and Swing Set |
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