| Sacrificial Anodes: Replacement |
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John Greviskis replaces the trim tab and corrosion control anodes.
Replacing the Trim Tab Anode
- This trim tab is positioned so that the trailing edge is angled to the right -- for a right-hand rotating engine. Before removing the anode, use a pencil to mark the anode's alignment (figure A).
- Use a socket (in this case, 5/8") to turn the anode to the left to break the bolt free. Once loosened, unthread the bolt. The trim tab anode should drop off.
- Replace the new anode in the same position as the old anode. Apply a lock-tite material to the bottom portion of the bolt threads (figure B) to keep it from rattling free during operation. Good contact between the bolt and engine is essential to direct electrolysis to the anode and away from the aluminum casting of the outboard.
- Finally, tighten the bolt into place (figure C).
Replacing the Corrosion Control Anode
- In this demonstration, the corrosion control anode is held into position by two bolts. Loosen the bolts and the anode should drop (figure D).
- The new anode in installed (figure E) and the bolts are covered with a lock-tite product before being tightened.
One last anode: Some engines have an anode above the trim tab (figure F), rather than the actual trim tab serving as the anode. In this example, the trim tab is painted aluminum, as is part of the engine that isn't meant to be sacrificed. To replace, just loosen and remove the bolt, then knock the anode out from the side. Slide the new anode in -- avoid using lock-tite on bolts that are self-tapping -- and tighten bolts to secure.
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