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  • Marine Batteries: Installing the Battery Switch and Wiring the Battery
  • From "Shipshape Boating"
    episode DSSB-106
    advertisement

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    The host of Shipshape Boating, John Greviskis, shows you how to install and maintain marine batteries.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H





    In this segment, DIY's Shipshape Boating host John Greviskis shows you how to install the battery switch and how to wire the battery.


    Now that the batteries are mounted, it's time to install the battery switch and time to wire the batteries.


    • First, you'll need to make some wire cable, and for this particular project Greviskis chose to use some 2-gauge copper-tin stranded wire (figure A). The reason you'll want to consider using copper-tin wire is that is keeps corrosion down. Copper wire alone will usually corrode.


    • Strip back approximately a 1/2" of insulation (see Figure A) on one end of the copper-tin wire, and insert a battery lug (figure B) on the end of it by sliding it over the exposed wires. Insert the lug into a heavy-duty lug crimper, determine what number the lug is (a number 2 in this case) and crimp the lug snugly. You will need to use a hammer to do this. Be sure to give the crimp a good test by pulling it to make sure it doesn't slide "off" the cable and wires.


    • The lug needs to be sealed with marine-grade heat-shrink tubing (figure C). Simple slice a piece in half, using a razor or sharp knife, slip it over the end of the lug and apply heat. Greviskis used a small butane torch to get the job done. A heat gun or lighter will work as well. This will seal the connection and make it watertight.


    • Once the lug is sealed, it's time to start the process of wiring the batteries. On the negative posts (figure D) of both the starter battery and house or accessory battery, run a cable from one stud (the negative terminals) to the other and secure.


    • Take another black 2-gauge wire cable and take it from the one battery, run it through the "rigging way" (figure E), which runs down below deck on the particular boat used in this episode, and take it to the ground post (figure F) that's installed back at the transom.


    • A ground cable from the engine also needs to run to the ground post. Secure the two cables to the ground post with a washer and bolt.


    • Now it's time to run the positive (red) wires from a positive lead on the house or accessory batter to the battery switch (figure G). The battery switch gives you the ability to run one battery into one position (for example, the starting battery into position number "1" on the battery switch -- see figure G -- and the house or accessory battery into position number "2") and another battery into the other position. Then you'll be able to turn the dial on the battery switch to either the 1, 2 or "both" position. If you want to cut the power off altogether, turn the dial to "off".


      Tip: If the energy of either battery is running low, a good idea is to turn the dial on the battery switch to "both" to give an extra boost of power.


      On the backside of the battery switch reside the studs where you actually attach the cable studs (figure H).


      Install the battery switch right on the transom with a couple of self-tapping screws.


      In the final segment, Greviskis will show you how to protect your battery-switch connections.



  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: