| Basic Boat Trailer Maintenance: Replacing Jack Stands and Bunk |
From "Shipshape Boating" episode DSSB-105 |
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In this segment, host John Greviskis shows you how to replace a jack stand and bunk. Not every trailer jack stand is operable, and in this case Greviskis is going to demonstrate what you have to do if you have to replace your jack stand. Replacing the Trailer Jack Stand Materials: Saw horse (optional: floor jack) Spray penetrating oil Drip pan (to catch the penetrating oil) Box wrench (9/16" was used for this particular trailer) - Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts of the metal jack-stand bracket (figure A), and use a box wrench to loosen the bolts -- going slowly and carefully in case the bolts are rusty.
Safety Tip: Always use a drip pan to catch the oil to protect the environment. - Remove the jack stand and inspect the wheel (figure B) and all the other components of the stand for rust and wear and tear.
Note: The new jack stand that Greviskis chose for this demonstration had a pad on the bottom for more stability. You may want to consider this because if your stand is ever hoisted via a block or any method, the wear and tear of the wheel itself will be substantial. - Assemble the new hardware, including a nyloc nut (figure C), which is padded with nylon in order to keep it from sliding or backing off the thread.
- Re-attach the new bracket onto the trailer with the new bolts and nyloc nuts.
Replacing the Trailer Bunk Your boat is going to spend a huge portion of its life on a trailer bunk (photo, right), so it's vital that you check it from time to time for wear and tear. If the hull (bottom) of your boat is not properly supported, it will sag and extensive damage can occur. In fact, you can actually get a "hook" in the hull, which in turn will force the bow down (figure D) and cause problems in the water. Materials: New bunk and all components Compressed high-speed cutoff wheel (or a hacksaw) Wrench Drill - Most likely the bolts to the bunk mechanism "could" be entirely rusted over, which is why you'll need to use a compressed high-speed cutoff wheel to remove them.
Note: If you don't have a high-speed tool or air compressor, you can use a hacksaw, but be warned that the job will take much longer to complete. Safety Tip: Always wear protective eye gear when using high-speed tools or saws of any kind. - Cut the bolts.
- Remove the old bunks. Once you have them off, don't discard them because you can use them as a template for the new ones.
- Align one of the old bunks against the new one in order to properly align the new brackets. Drill a pilot hole (figure E) in the new bunk and attach the new bracket.
- Once the new brackets are attached to the new bunk, align the new brackets to the fade lines on the trailer -- and re-bolt in the exact same spot.
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