| Outboard Engine Tune-up: Changing the In-line Fuel Filter and Lower Gear-Case Oil |
From "Shipshape Boating"
episode DSSB-101 |
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Any time you're working on the power-head section of an outboard motor, it's a good idea to spray down some of the key electrical components on the engine (figure A). The number one reason for engine failure out on the water is due to corrosion on electrical contacts.
For proper maintenance of your boat engine, you also need to inspect the in-line fuel filter (figure B). This component filters the gasoline, and the manufacturer recommends that you change the filter after the first initial 100 hours of usage. Unfortunately, if your boat picks up water in the fuel or bad gas you may have to change the filter "before" the 100 hours.
Changing the In-line Fuel Filter
- Snip off the nylon tie-straps (figure C) and slide out the in-line filter.
- Put a little gas on the fitting from the old filter or drip a little gas into the fuel hose to get the same result.
- Slide the new filter in the rubber fittings and use a couple of nylon tie-straps to secure by clamping. Make sure the clamp is centered in-between the bars on the filter and with a pair of side cutters, snip the nylon straps.
Changing the Lower Gear-Case Oil - There are two screws located on the lower gear case (figure D), and they are to help you drain and fill in with new gear lube. The top screw is the level and the bottom screw is the drain.
- With a large straight-slotted screwdriver, back out the top "level" screw just enough to break the vacuum -- not all the way out -- to allow drainage.
- Next, make sure an oil pan is under the lower "drain" screw, and then loosen the screw. Remove the screw and the oil/lube will drain.
Note: You will be able to tell a lot from the draining lube. If the lube is milky white, it's a sign that water has somehow replaced the gear lube, which can be a huge indication of trouble. If the lube is pure black (figure E), it's okay. The manufacturer recommends that you change the gear lube every 50 hours if you run the outboard engine hard or in saltwater. If you run in fresh water, every 100 hours or about once a year will suffice.
- Now it's time to take a look at the gasket. If the o-ring (figure F) of the gasket looks worn or tattered, replace it with a new one.
- Back out the top (level) screw completely loosen up the vacuum so the gear case can properly empty.
- Insert a pump kit (figure G) into both the bottom (drain) screw hole and the pump portion into the 90-weight bottle of oil. Pump the bottle until the fluid starts flowing out of the top (level) screw hole (figure H), and once it starts coming out give the bottle a couple of extra pumps.
- Put in the top (level) screw and clean the excess fluid off the gear case.
- Put in the bottom screw and you're done!
RESOURCES :
Troubleshooting Gasoline Marine Engines
Model: 1892216280
Author: John Fleming
(January 2001)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Bristol Fashion Publications
Boat Engines: A Motor Boat and Yachting Book
Model: 1898660042
Author: Dick Hewitt
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Fernhurst Books
Boat Repair Made Easy -- Engines -- Diesel and Gasoline ...
Model: 1892216035
Author: John P. Kaufman
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Bristol Fashion Publications
Outboard Motor Engines: Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repair
Model: 0070578567
Author: Edwin R. Sherman
(April 1997)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Ragged Mountain Press
Camden, ME 04843-0220
Phone: 207-236-4837
Fax: 207-236-6314
Outboard Motor Service Manual
Model: 0872884643
Author: Intertec
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
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