DIY Network

Outboard Engine Tune-up: Changing the Oil and Filter From "Shipshape Boating" episode DSSB-101

advertisement

The host of Shipshape Boating, John Greviskis, will show you how to do an outboard engine tune-up in this debut episode. The boat that Greviskis will work on in this episode is the 2001, 13-foot Boston Whaler Sport. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H

In this first episode of DIY's Shipshape Boating, host John Greviskis will demonstrate how to give a tune-up to a 2001, 13-foot Boston Whaler Sport, which is powered by a 40-horsepower, mercury, four-stroke outboard engine.

With this type of motor, you'll need to have the engine oil changed periodically. Traditional two-stroke outboard motors don't require engine oil because with them you mix two-stroke oil with the gas and that's how the motor gets lubrication.

For the four-stroke outboard engine, the manufacturer recommends that the oil be changed at least once a year or every 100 hours of running time in fresh water, which ever comes first. For salt-water usage or if the four-stroke engine is run hard, you'll need to change the oil every 50 hours, which should equate to twice a year if you're a regular boater.

Changing the Oil and Filter

Because you'll have to drain and then refill the oil, you'll need to pull the boat out of the water onto dry land.

Environmental Tip: Please always dispose of discarded engine oil at an approved HAZMAT collection center.

1. Remove the engine cover, which are usually held in place with the use of one or two latches -- the 40 Mercury engine seen on-air had only one latch. Simply pull down on it and lift it straight up (figure A). Let it set off to the side -- being careful not to scratch its surface.

   Here are some key parts and elements on the engine:

   • Dip Stick -- Simply pull it out to examine the condition of the oil inside the crank case.

   • Fill -- The fill for the engine oil screws on and off.

   • Drain Plug -- The manufacturer installed the drain plug (figure B) for the crank case oil in what's called the "mid-section" of the outboard engine. You simply loosen it to drain the oil.

     FYI: The top section of the outboard engine is called the "power head" and below it is the lower gear case.

   Before getting into the oil change, Greviskis brought in a table and he turned the steering wheel so that the drain plug on the motor is facing inward. He trimmed the engine all the way up and placed an oil pan on the table and under the drain plug.

   Tip: Have some rags or absorbent pads readily available for cleanup during and after the oil change.

2. For this particular engine, Greviskis used an 18 millimeter socket wrench and a 3/8" drive. Back the drain plug out with the socket wrench, and be sure to have the oil pan right under the plug because the oil will flow freely.

3. Once all of the oil has drained, wipe up any excess oil with a rag or absorbent pad.

4. Replace the drain plug and tighten it securely.

5. To change the oil filter (figure C), which needs to be changed every time to change the oil, you won't be able to use a traditional oil-filter wrench because it's too large. What you'll need is a strap wrench (figure D) that slips right over the filter cap. Pull it tight and then try to loosen the cap. If the strap slips, you may have to clean the filter cap with an absorbent pad. If this doesn't work, get a screwdriver and hammer and simply drive (by tapping) the screwdriver tip down "into" the cap, and then rotate (figure E) the filter until it becomes loose enough to take off.

   Tip: Be sure to place a couple of absorbent pads under the filter cap to collect any oil or debris.

6. Before you replace the old oil filter with the new one, dip your finger into the old oil and rub a bead of the oil around the edge of the new filter's gasket o-ring (figure F). This will make the job of removing this filter that much easier when it's time to replace it.

   Motor Oil information: If you're going to be boating in a hot climate where it never dips below 40 degrees, you need to use a 25 W-40 weight motor oil. If you're going to be boating in a cooler climate, you have to switch weight to 10W-30. For this particular engine, Greviskis used three bottles of 25 W-40 weight motor oil.

7. Screw the new oil filter into position.

   Note: When attaching the new oil filter, hand tighten it only until snug, then give the oil filter an additional 3/4 to one full turn. Never use a wrench on a new oil filter, even a strap wrench. Tighten by hand only!

8. Now that the oil filter is in place and the drain plug is secured tightly, it's time to remove the plug (figure G) for the fill and add the three quarts of oil using a funnel.

   Warning: Every engine is different so be sure to check with the manufacturer's manual for how much oil to use.

9. The last thing you need to complete the oil and filter change is to pull out the dip stick (figure H) in order to make sure you have enough oil.

RESOURCES :
Troubleshooting Gasoline Marine Engines
Model: 1892216280
Author: John Fleming
(January 2001)

To order this title from Amazon, click here.

Bristol Fashion Publications

Boat Engines: A Motor Boat and Yachting Book
Model: 1898660042
Author: Dick Hewitt
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Fernhurst Books

Boat Repair Made Easy -- Engines -- Diesel and Gasoline ...
Model: 1892216035
Author: John P. Kaufman
Order this book from Amazon.com.
Bristol Fashion Publications

Outboard Motor Engines: Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repair
Model: 0070578567
Author: Edwin R. Sherman
(April 1997)

To order this title from Amazon, click here.

Ragged Mountain Press
Camden, ME 04843-0220
Phone: 207-236-4837
Fax: 207-236-6314

Outboard Motor Service Manual
Model: 0872884643
Author: Intertec

To order this title from Amazon, click here.

Primedia Business