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  • Replacing a Toilet
  • From "Ask DIY"
    episode ADI-516
    advertisement

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Figure O

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    Figure P

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    Figure Q

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    Figure R

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    Figure S

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    Figure T

    Q: I would like to put a new water-efficient toilet in my bathroom. Is this a project that requires a plumber, or can I tackle it myself?

    A: (Sharon Hanby-Robie, Ask DIY Home-Improvement expert) Yes, you can most likely do it yourself. In fact, you may even find that your old toilet is illegal -- several years ago a law was passed that specifies a toilet can use 1.6 gallons of water per flush, as opposed to 6 per flush previously.

    Choosing a Replacement Toilet

    • When it comes to buying a replacement toilet, a one-piece unit is the easiest to install but is usually more expensive than a two-piece unit. One recent innovation in toilet design is a unit with a higher seat, which is great for older people or those with limited mobility. The one illustrated on the left in figure A has a seat height of 16-1/2", a full 1-1/2" higher than the standard toilet shown at the right of the image. If you decide to install a higher toilet, though, be sure that you still have a standard unit in the house if you have small children: the taller one may present too great a challenge for little people.

    • Another relatively new design is the low-profile toilet (figure B), which features a tank that is barely taller than the seat. This style is particularly well suited for a powder room.

    • The most important measurement to take when you're replacing a toilet is the distance between the wall and the drain underneath the toilet (figure C). Measure from the wall to the first bolt in the base of the unit. The usual measurement is 12", but anything between 11" and 13" is considered standard. If you need a nonstandard unit, it will usually cost more, and your options will be more limited.

    Now let's install that toilet!

    Removing the Old Unit

    1. Turn off the shutoff valve (figure D).

    2. Flush the toilet to make sure the tank and bowl are empty. When it's finished processing, sponge the inside of the tank dry.

    3. Disconnect the water supply at the shutoff valve (figure E) and the tank (figure F).

    4. The toilet in our illustration is a two-piece unit, so the next step is to remove the tank by taking out the nuts and bolts that hold the two pieces together (figure G).

    5. Carefully lift off the tank and set it aside.

    6. Pry off the trim caps on the floor bolts (figure H) and remove the nuts with an adjustable wrench (figure I). This can be the hardest part of the procedure, as the nuts may have been in place for years; in this case, you may need to use a hacksaw blade to remove them.

    7. Move the unit back and forth to break the wax ring sealing the bottom of the bowl to the toilet flange. Lift the bowl and set it aside.

    8. Scrape away any remaining wax (figure J).

    9. Clean the area with a stiff wire brush and disinfect with a mixture of bleach and water.

    10. Stuff a rag into the hole to prevent any sewer gas from seeping into the bathroom (figure K).

    Installing the New Bowl

    1. Turn the new bowl upside down and put a new wax ring and sleeve over the drain horn (figure L). Make sure the flange is clean and the floor bolts point straight up (figure M).

    2. Lift the toilet into place over the flange and fit the holes in the base over the floor bolts (figure N). Press down on the toilet to compress the wax ring and make a tight seal.

    3. Attach the washers and nuts to the floor bolts with an adjustable wrench. Be sure not to overtighten -- you could crack the base and have to buy yet another toilet!

    4. Attach the trim caps.

    Installing the New Tank

    1. Install the handle, ballcock and flush valve in the proper positions inside the tank (figure O).

    2. Turn the tank upside down and place the spud washer over the tailpiece (figure P).

    3. Turn the tank right side up again and carefully set it on the bottom unit, centering the spud washer over the water inlet opening (figure Q).

    4. Attach the washers and nuts under the edge of the bowl and tighten gently.

    5. Attach the supply tubing first to the valve (figure R) and then to the ballcock tailpiece (figure S).

    6. Tighten the coupling nuts until they're snug (figure T). If necessary, you can hold on to the ballcock to help you in tightening the nuts.

    7. Turn the water supply back on. The tank should fill with water.

    Installing the Seat

    • Attach the seat by setting the seat bolts onto the mounting holes.
    • Screw the mounting nuts onto the seat bolts. Tighten until snug.


    RESOURCES :
    Plumbing for Dummies
    Model: 0764551744
    Author: Gene and Katie Hamilton
    1999; Out of Print
    IDG Books Worldwide, Inc. (An International Data Group Company)
    Foster City, CA 94404

    Do-It-Yourself Plumbing
    Model: 0060101229
    Author: Max Alth
    Sterling Publishing, 1987 Out of Print

    Installing and Repairing Plumbing Fixtures
    Model: 1561580759
    Author: Peter Hemp
    1994
    The Taunton Press Inc.
    Website: www.taunton.com

    Plumbing: Step-by-Step Repair Procedures
    Model: 188002912X
    Author: Warren Ramezzana (Editor
    Creative Homeowner Press, 1992

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