DIY Network

Installing a Multi-Head Shower: Open Up Shower Wall and Rough-In Lower Plumbing From "Weekend Remodeling" episode WKR-109

In this segment, host Fuad Reveiz cuts the wall and plumbing for the new showerhead.

Prep Work, Remove Old Showerhead and Replace Tile = 3 hours
Open Up Shower Wall and Rough in the Lower Plumbing = 4 hours
Reinforce Shower Wall, Caulk Tile and Secure Shower System to Wall = 3 hours
Replace Dry Wall in Closet = 4 hours
Total hours spent on project = 14 hours over two and a half days

On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the hardest, this project is a 2.

We spent approximately $4,000 on supplies for this project. If you hired a contractor to install a skylight, it would probably cost you around $5,500. (Instructions continued below)

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Materials:

multi-head shower
silicone sealant
pencil or felt marker
socket wrench with sockets
tape measure
drill and bits
level
blade screwdriver
Philips screwdriver
hex wrenches
1/8" spacers
rubber float
shims
adhesive tape
hammer
skill saw
circular saw
rotary tool
2 x 4's
2 x 2's
drywall and tape
drywall tools

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

The new shower weighs 125 pounds and mounts onto the tile surface. The studs behind it had to be reinforced with double 2 x 4 stringers. The shower backed up to a closet, so the drywall had to be opened up in order to plumb the connections and set the supports in place. Here are the steps involved for that process:

1. Measure the height of the shower valve from the floor and then it's distance from the wall so that you can locate the shower valve on the other side of the wall.

2. If the shower backs up to a closet, clear everything out first. Score the baseboard and shoe molding with a utility knife in order to break the caulk loose. Remove them both with a flat pry bar.

3. To pinpoint where you want to open the wall, transfer the measurements taken from the shower. To make sure you are where you need to be, locate the studs in the wall with a stud finder.

4. Using a keyhole saw, cut a horizontal line into the drywall between the wall studs, just above the valve. Once you hit the studs, use them as a guide and cut the drywall all the way to the floor. Be care and keep the drywall in one piece. You will be able to use it as a patch when you need to close the wall back up. You will now have room to work.
5. Once the closet wall behind the shower is opened up, it is time to drill out the holes in the tile and stub out for the lower plumbing connections you are going to need. First, you need to remove the faucet controls.

6. Remove the screws on the trim plate of the shower valve.

7. Remove the hex screw on the handle (figure A) in order to remove the handle and plate.

8. Remove the shower valve by cutting the 1/2-inch copper pipes with a pipe cutter (figure B).

9. If you find out you need to replace and tiles around the old shower valve (you can't have water getting into the walls), repeat the process you used to replace the tile at the showerhead. Remove the tiles, and then the old thin set with a hammer and 5 in 1 tool. If you leave the old thin set, you won't have a good bond and the new tile won't sit level with the rest of the tile.

10. Once the area is clean, butter the back of the tile with thin set, then press it onto the wall. Set the spacers around the edges of the tile to line everything up. Once the thin set has set up, apply the grout, and then wipe off the excess.

    Expert Tip: Once your grout cures for at least a week, you need to be certain to use a good quality grout sealer. This is especially important if you are doing a shower enclosure.

11. Locate the center of the shower wall. Use a level to strike a vertical line in the middle of the wall.

12. Place the shower unit on a shim to raise it slightly off the shower floor, then slide it against the wall and use it as a template to mark the holes for the bolts and for the water lines (figure C).

13. Cut the holes for the anchor bolts using a 5/8 inch ceramic tile-cutting bit.

14. Use a 1-1/2-inch diamond hole bit and cut inside the boxed area for the plumbing (figure D).

15. Preassemble the pipes to place in through the wall. It is just male adapters soldered to the pipes. One for the top pipe, which is cold water, and the bottom pipe is for the hot water (figure E). These pipes will not line up; they need to be offset slightly away from each other so that the pipes can easily be connected to the shower system when it is in place.

16. Cut the cold line about 5-1/2 inches from the floor plate, and the hot line at 3 inches from the plate. In the wall, cut the water lines at the 3/4-inch size line. You will need the full pipe for this many showerheads.

    Expert Tip: Three quarter inch supply lines with minimum 50 PSI of pressure are required for best performance of the sprays with water heads.

17. Use 90-degree elbows to turn the lines back towards the supply lines for the shower system.

18. Solder the copper pipes into place. Sand the fittings and copper line with plumbing sandpaper.

19. Apply soldering flux (figure F) and connect the pipe to the fitting.

20. Sweat the pipes. Heat the copper pipe with a propane torch until the solder is hot enough for it to liquefy so that it fills all of the gaps between the fitting and the pipe (figure G).

RESOURCES :
WaterHaven Multi Nozzle Shower (Kohler Company)
Kohler Co.
Website: www.us.kohler.com

Remodeling a Bathroom (For Pros By Pros Series)
ISBN: 156158584X
Author: Editors of Fine Homebuilding
Order this title from Amazon.
The Taunton Press Inc.
Website: www.taunton.com

The Complete Guide to Bathrooms: Ideas and Projects for Building and Remodeling (Black and Decker)
ISBN: 1589230620
Author: Editors of Creative Publishing International
Order this title from Amazon.
Creative Publishing International, Inc.
Website: www.creativepub.com

Creating Beautiful Bathrooms: Design Tips, Remodeling Ideas, Building Projects
ISBN: 1580110770
Author: Jerry Germer
Order this title from Amazon.
Creative Homeowner Press
Website: www.creativehomeowner.com