With the old bathroom stripped down to the wall studs (figure A), the new tile floor installed and the new door hung, the new bathroom has yet to really start looking like a new bathroom. In the next phase of the renovation, it begins to really take shape with the installation of new water-resistant drywall (a.k.a., "green-board") for the interior walls, replacement of the plumbing fixtures and installation of a contemporary shower.
Installation of Water Resistant Drywall Materials: Water-resistant drywall
Saber saw; hand saw
Utility knife
Hammer
Cupped-head nails
Drywall compound
Putty spreaders
- Sarah begins the wallboard process by inspecting and measuring (figure B and C) the space she wants to fill in the room.
- For some of the more complicated cuts, Sarah makes a drawing. The diagram makes it easier to transfer the measurements directly to the drywall (figure D).
- For the bath Sarah is using what's known as "green-board" (figure E). It's a little more expensive than regular drywall but well worth it for this application. The heavier paper backing is treated to resist moisture. That steam resulting from hot showers can damage plain drywall over time.
- Cutting the green-board is surprisingly simple. After measuring carefully, score the surface with a utility knife and sharp blade, making sure to cut through the top layer of paper (figure F).
- Once the board is scored, simply bend and snap it. That will leave it hanging by the bottom layer of paper. Use the sharp blade to slice through that layer of paper for a very clean cut (figure G).
- For more complicated cuts, like holes for switches or vents, use a saber saw. After measuring and marking the board, carefully sink the blade directly into the board (figure H). The saber saw cuts easily on the marks.
Safety Alert: Always wear protective glasses or goggles when using a power cutting tool.
- If you don't have a saber saw, you could also use a small, sharp pointed, hand saw. A hand-saw is particularly helpful for making cuts in tight or awkward places.
- Attach the board to the wall-studs using cupped-head nails. Set the nails by sinking them just below the surface of the wall making a slight dimple with the head of the hammer.
- To get the smoothest possible finish, fill these slight depressions with joint compound, commonly called drywall mud (figure I). The compound comes pre-mixed in various sized tubs.
- Use a taping knife with a wide, flexible blade to sweep the compound over the nail hole. This process covers the nail-head, which should be just below the surface of the wallboard.
- The next step for finishing the drywall is called taping the seams. Fill the space between boards with mud, making sure to spread a thin layer about two inches wide on either side of the seam (figure J).
- Next, place a strip of paper tape from top to bottom, centered over the seam (figure K).
- Sarah uses a stiffer blade to firmly set the paper into the mud, getting it as smooth as possible. Then with the wider blade, she sweeps a thin surface of mud across the top of the paper (figure L).
- The corners are finished using the same technique. The compound is applied to the corner seam (figure M).
- A special 90-degree blade is used to fill the corner seam with a layer of mud (figure N). The knife is designed to smooth the drywall compound over the tape and down the wall with one motion. It's a handy tool that makes the process go a lot easier.
- The tape is then folded into the corner (figure O).
- Allow the compound dry for a day before moving on to the next step.
One of the advantages to using drywall and joint compound is that it's easy to work with and can sometimes be used to fix problems. For example, in this project when the old walls were removed, one section was left in place in order to save work and material. As it turned out, this was a mistake. The problem was that the existing wall was uneven — with a slight irregularity in the middle. Sarah was too far along in the project to tear out the wall, so she resorted to a quick fix — she added mud in an attempt to smooth out the uneven section (figure P). When using the compound for this type of fix, don't try to fill a big hole all at once. Let the first coat dry for a day, then add more later. This solution was less than perfect — and required a great deal of sanding later — but it was less problematic than ripping out the section of wall. In the following segment, a new toilet is installed.
RESOURCES :
The Complete Book of Kitchen and Bathroom Renovation
Time Life Books
Website: www.timelife.com
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