Note: Illustration A, Illustration B, Illustration C, Illustration D, Illustration E, Illustration F, Illustration G, Illustration H Sometimes it's less trouble and not much more expensive to replace a faucet than it is to fix it. Materials: Replacement faucet (prices vary)
Plumber's putty
Masking tape
Silicone caulk
Scrubbing pad or steel wool
Adjustable rench
Basin wrench
Putty knife
Rags and old towels
Removing the Supply Tubes - Shut off the water to the old faucet and open the faucet to relieve pressure inside it. Use towels to make the work space under the sink as comfortable as possible.
- You will probably have six nuts to loosen. Use a taped adjustable wrench to loosen the coupling nuts at the shutoff valves, and a basin wrench to loosen the coupling nuts and the lock nuts attached to the faucet (illustration A, click above to view).
- If you have rigid supply tubes, remove them very carefully; one wrong twist and they will be kinked beyond repair.
Preparing the Sink - Once the supply tubes are removed, remove the lock nuts and carefully lift the faucet out.
- Protect the sink with masking tape, then scrape away any old putty with a putty knife (illustration B, click above to view). Scour off any remaining putty residue using fine steel wool or a fine abrasive pad.
Dropping In the New Faucet - Single-lever and two handle faucets are available for three-hole bathroom sinks with the outer holes spaced 4 inches apart, and kitchen sinks with 6- or 8-inch spacing.
- Feed the spray hose and supply tubes, if any, through their holes. If you have copper supply tubes (illustration C, click above to view), take care not to kink them.
- Some faucets require you to bed the faucet's mounting plate in a continuous rope of plumber's putty; others come with a gasket. Push the faucet into position on the putty, or position the gasket carefully. Many plumbers prefer to use silicone caulk rather than putty, and some put a little bead of silicone around the perimeter of the gasket to improve the seal.
Tightening the Sink Connections - Have a helper hold the faucet in the correct position above while you work below.
- If your new faucet has lock nuts for each tailpiece (illustration D, click above to view), just slip the nuts on and tighten with a basin wrench. (Tighten a plastic lock nut by hand.)
- For the type shown (illustration E, click above to view), slip the flange onto the threaded mounting stud or the tailpiece. Thread a lock nut onto the stud and tighten with a basin wrench. Thread a second lock nut onto the sprayer hose tailpiece and tighten it in the same way.
- Scrape away excess putty from around the mounting plate. If you used silicone, wipe it up with a vinegar soaked paper towel before it dries.
Attaching the Supply Tubes - Cut the tubes with a tubing cutter, and use a tubing bender to reshape the tubes without kinking them (illustration F, click above to view). Use a tube cutter to make any cuts. Make sure the tubing goes straight into the shutoff valve with no abrupt bends. Slide a top coupling nut, bottom coupling nut, and compression ring onto the tube, slip the tube into the valve, and tighten the bottom nut over the ring. Fit the top of the tube against the faucet tailpiece and tighten the top nut.
- Flexible supply lines are easier to install; just twist on the coupling nuts. Purchase one that will fit your shutoff valve (either 1/2 or 3/8 inch). At the faucet tailpiece you may need to place a washer in the large coupling nut (illustration G, click above to view); some flexible tubes come with washers already installed.
- Turn on the shutoff valves. If there are any leaks, tighten the leaky coupling nut another quarter turn. Remove the aerator and run water for a minute to flush the lines.
Connecting the Hose - To attach a spray hose, screw its coupling nut onto the stub-out behind the supply tubes (illustration H, click above to view). Tighten the nut with a basin wrench.
- To check the installation, unscrew the aerator on the faucet and on the sprayer. Turn on the water, slowly at first, and run it alternately through the faucet and the sprayer. If it leaks, tighten the coupling nuts another quarter-turn.
- Run water full force for a minute to flush the lines, and replace the aerators.
Estimated Cost: Supply lines = $8.58
Plumber's putty (4 oz.) = $1.15
Masking tape = $3.98
Silicone caulk = $4.46
Steel wool = $2.99
Total = $21.16 Note : The faucet used in this project, including sprayer, cost $70; the basin wrench cost $15, bringing the total cost of materials and tools to $106.16. Note: To order the new HGTV's Complete Fix-It book, see Resources, below. Illustrations (Copyright) Time-Life Books 2000.
RESOURCES :
HGTV's Complete Fix-It
Author: HGTV
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