DIY Network

1962 Fort T-Bird: Engine-Parts Removal From "Classic Car Restoration" episode DCR-305

The 1962 Thunderbird has seen more than 40 years of wear and tear, and a substantial amount of time in storage. In this episode, the T-bird's engine gets a few high-performance modifications.

In this episode, we bring our '62 Thunderbird project-car into the 21st century with some high-performance engine bolt-ons -- including aluminum cylinder heads, a high-flow intake manifold and a high-performance four-barrel carburetor.

In this first segment, a number of engine parts are removed to prep the engine for some performance upgrades.

Materials:

Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
Torque wrenches
Breaker bar
Air compressor and impact wrenches (optional)
Engine-lift plate
Pry bar
Gasket scraper
Jack and jack-stands
Creeper
Brake cleaner
Spray degreaser

Safety Equipment:

Work gloves
Safety glasses or other eye protection

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

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Though the engine won't need to be pulled for the upgrades, the hood was removed and the engine compartment was cleaned up before serious work began.

So far in our T-bird proect, we've made improvements to the braking and all of the systems that allow us to drive the car, as well as an upgrade to the differential and exhaust system to help improve acceleration. In this next phase, we add a variety of real speed equipment to the car including:

• Aluminum cylinder heads;
  
• high performance carburetor;
  
• aluminum intake manifold;
  
• and some chrome dress-up items.

To make room for the new high performance bolt-on parts, we've got to strip the motor down to the bare short-block. We can do that in the car, without pulling the engine.
Before the real work began, though, we pulled the hood off the car and also cleaned up the under-hood area to help facilitate the engine work. Following is a summary of the engine disassembly we did before the new parts were added.

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.
Steps:

• The first parts to come off are the carburetor and distributor. Use a socket wrench to disconnect the accelerator rod at the carburetor. Remove the bolts that secure the carburetor to the intake manifold. Disconnect the fuel lines. Carefully lift the old carburetor out (figure A).

• You'll need to go under the car to detach the fuel-line from the fuel pump. Once it's disconnected, the fuel-line can be pulled up out of the engine (figure B).

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  
• Unhook the distributor hold-down clamp and disconnect the coil wires. Disconnect the spark-plug wires and pull them free. With the sparkplug wires free, carefully lift out the distributor (figure C).

• Next, remove the bolts that hold the radiator surge-tank in place, loosen the clamps and slip the tank's hose off its connection (figure D), and lift out the disconnected tank.

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  
• Disconnect the coil wires from the ignition coil wires (figure E).

  Tip: When disconnecting multiple wires, such as in this procedure, label the wires using masking tape and a marker to make it easier to properly reconnect everything later.

• Loosen the clamp on the hose at the carburetor base-plate. (When the engine is running, this hose runs warm water to the carburetor, allowing for faster startups.) Disconnect the hose (figure F) and remove the base plate. This part will not be replaced since the upgrade to the 4-barrel carburetor and aluminum intake will make it unnecessary.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  
• The air-conditioning compressor and pump do need to be unbolted and moved out of the way, but they should not be disassembled or disconnected -- which would result in the freon leaking out. On older cars like this one, the compressed gasses inside the system are difficult to replace, and releasing them into the atmosphere is environmentally harmful, so the a/c should be left connected. To temporarily move the a/c components out of the way, remove the bolts at the bottom of the compressor, slide the compressor forward (figure G) and remove the belt.

• With the bolts and belt free, carefully roll the compressor up and let it rest securely on the top of the wheel-well (figure H).

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  
• Remove the bolts that hold the valve-covers in place (figure I), and carefully lift the valve covers off. Later, we'll replace these worn valve-covers with chrome replacements.

• Once the valve-covers are off, disassemble the rocker-arm assembly, loosening all of the retaining bolts. Once all of the bolts have been loosened, lift out the rocker-arm shaft (figure J).

• With the shaft out of the way, remove all of the push-rods. (It's not necessary to keep these push-rods in any particular order.)

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  
• In many cases, stock intake manifolds are made out of aluminum and are fairly light, but this Ford model is quite heavy. To remove it safely, attach an engine-lifting plate (available at auto-parts stores) to the manifold and bolt it down securely (figure K).

• Once it is bolted down, a steel rod (such as a pry bar) can be inserted through the holes in the plate, and the manifold can be lifted out (figure L).

  Note: Since this part is so heavy, this will require the assistance of a second person.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

• With the manifold out of the way, loosen and remove the cylinder-head bolts (figure M). These long bolts may have been torque-tightened to between 50 and 100 foot-pounds, so you'll need a long breaker bar to loosen them.

• Once all of the cylinder-head bolts have been removed, the head can be separated from the block. In some cases the head may come loose easily, and in others it may be stuck fast. If the head is difficult to separate from the block, it may be because the old head-gasket is causing it to stick. Here's a trick to loosen a stuck head head: insert the handle of a ratchet extension into an intake port, and use the handle as a pry-bar (figure N), using caution not to contact or damage the valve.

  Figure M

  Figure N

  
  

  	Figure O
  	Figure P
  	Figure Q

• Once the cylinder-head is loose from the block, carefully lift it out of the vehicle (figure O) and set it aside.

• Repeat the steps on the other side to remove the other cylinder head.

• Before installing any new parts, the engine will need to be cleaned up. Begin by removing whatever is left of the old head gasket (figure P). Pull as much of it off by hand as possible, then use a gasket scraper to clean any remaining gasket and residue from the cylinder-head deck. It's important to remove all remaining gasket material and debris.

• It's important to clean away any remaining coolant in the cylinder bore and lifter galley (figure Q). Standing coolant can initiate rusting if left on for more than a few hours.

• Use compressed air to blow out any debris left in the bolt-holes. Metal or rust particles, or other debris, could prevent the bolts from tightening down properly.

• Clean the deck with brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner to remove any remaining residue, making sure the deck is left absolutely clean.
  
  
  
  

  RESOURCES :
  

  Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
  Model: 1850108900
  Author: Lindsay Porter
  Order this book from Amazon.com
  Haynes Publishing
  

  The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
  Author: Dan Ramsey
  ISBN: 0028635833
  Alpha Books

  Auto Repair for Dummies
  Author: Deanna Sclar
  ISBN: 0764550896

  Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners and Restorers of Classic and Collectible Automobiles
  1557881944
  Jim Richardson
  (November 1994)
  To order this title from Amazon, click here.
  H.P. Books
  

  Thunderbird Restoration Guide, 1958-1966 (Motorbooks International Authentic Restoration Guides)
  by William Wonder
  Published by Motorbooks International, June 1997
  ASIN: 0760303908
  To order this book from Amazon.com, click here.

  Illustrated Thunderbird Buyer's Guide (Motorbooks International Illustrated Buyer's Guide)
  by Paul G. McLaughlin
  Publisher: Motorbooks International (July 2000)
  ASIN: 0879388706
  To order this book from Amazon.com, click here.

  Edelbrock Performance Products
  Website: www.edelbrock.com

  
  

  GUESTS :
  

  Keller Wallace
  Keller Wallace Street Rods
  Volunteer Street Rod Association
  Knoxville, TN

  ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:
  	1962 Fort T-Bird: Engine-Parts Removal
  	1962 Fort T-Bird: High-Performance Engine Head
  	1962 Fort T-Bird: Manifold and Rocker-Arm Assembly
  	1962 Fort T-Bird: High-Performance Carburetor