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  • 1962 Ford T-Bird: Transmission Service
  • From "Classic Car Restoration"
    episode DCR-304


    PHOTO

    The 1962 Thunderbird sports roadster.
    In this episode of DIY's Classic Car Restoration, host Steve Magnante and restoration expert Keller Wallace refurbish and upgrade some systems on the car. Projects include: servicing the transmission pan and replacing the filter and gasket, servicing the drum brakes, upgrading from an open to a limited slip differential and upgrading the exhaust system to a more efficient system with 2-1/4" pipes and turbo mufflers for better performance.

    In this first segment, the 1962 Thunderbird's transmission gets serviced.

    Materials:

    Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
    Air compressor and impact wrenches (optional)
    Replacement transmission-filter
    Replacement transmission gasket
    Gasket adhesive
    Transmission fluid
    Parts washer; scrub brush
    Brake-cleaning fluid
    Rags
    Mallet
    Pry bar
    Catch basin
    Cardboard, plastic sheet or drop-cloth
    Jack and jack-stands

    Safety Equipment:

    Work gloves
    Safety glasses or other eye protection

    Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.
    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B

    After refurbishing the T-bird's suspension, driveshaft, fuel system and gas tank, we took our project car for its first test drive since being taken out of long-term storage.

    Test-Drive Tips: To get the most out of a test-drive, find an open area where you can try out a variety of driving maneuvers. Pay close attention to how the suspension feels, and test the steering by making several small, tight turns (figure A). Test the brakes to see how they respond, and if they pull. Pump the brakes several times to test them for leaks.

    Transmission Service

    Our test drive revealed a rather sluggish transmission. Typically this may mean that the transmission has a clogged filter and/or is low on fluid.

    • To begin service on our transmission, we first drain the old transmission fluid from the pan. For this car, there should be between 4 and 6 quarts of old fluid to be removed. Use a catch-basin to recapture the old fluid for disposal (figure B). This can be a messy job, so we used a large sheet of scrap cardboard to protect the pavement in case of spills.
    • Some transmissions have a drain plug, but in the case of the "cruise-omatic" transmission on the T-bird, the pan is drained from a filler neck. With the catch-basin in place, loosen the filler neck (figure C), and the fluid will begin to drain (figure D). Our old fluid had a slight burnt smell, indicating that bands may need some adjustment.
      Photo

      Figure C

      Photo

      Figure D


      PHOTO

      Figure E
    • On this transmission, the filler neck also doubles as the dipstick tube. This needs to be removed (figure E) before work proceeds on servicing the transmission.
    • Once the filler neck is out of the way, use a socket wrench to remove the transmission-pan bolts, then use a mallet and pry-bar to carefully tap and loosen the pan. Once the last bolt is removed (figure F), carefully lower and remove the transmission pan (figure G).
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G


    • To remove the transmission filter, loosen the clip that holds it in place (figure H), and carefully remove the filter. With the filter removed (figure I), a little more fluid may drain out.
      Photo

      Figure H

      Photo

      Figure I


      PHOTO

      Figure J
      PHOTO

      Figure K
      PHOTO

      Figure L
      PHOTO

      Figure M
      PHOTO

      Figure N
    • Clean the filler neck and transmission pan using a parts washer and scrub sponge (figure J). Once the parts have been cleaned thoroughly, allow them to dry completely.

    • The filter from our transmission was full of debris, so it had to be replaced with a new one.

    • The next step is to remove the old transmission-pan gasket. In some cases, these are made from cork and can be messy to remove and clean away. In our case, the gasket was a single-piece compressed-fiber gasket, and could be removed fairly easily (figure K). Be certain to remove all of the old gasket from the bottom of the transmission. Leaving bits behind will likely cause leaks later when the new gasket is installed.

    • Use brake-cleaner fluid and a clean rag to thoroughly clean the lower face of the transmission unit.

    • Install the replacement transmission filter, and secure it with its retaining spring-clip (figure L).

    • Apply spray-on gasket adhesive to the replacement gasket, and to the lip of the cleaned and dried transmission pan.

      Important: Use only gasket adhesive -- formulated specifically for this purpose -- to attach the new gasket in place.

    • Once the adhesive has been applied, carefully position the new gasket onto the transmission-pan lip (figure M). The adhesive will help prevent the gasket from shifting during reinstallation of the pan. Once the gasket is in place on the pan, spray the gasket once again so that it will stick securely to the bottom of the transmission, and will not leak.

    • Position the cleaned transmission pan, with gasket installed, back into place and secure it with the bolts that were removed earlier (figure N).

      Important: Use a hand-held socket wrench -- rather than a power wrench -- to secure the bolts. Over-tightening the transmission bolts may cause the gasket to split, and result in leaks. Use caution to avoid cross-threading or stripping of bolts. As with all bolt installations, if the bolt doesn't feel like it's going in smoothly, back it out and reinstall it by hand before tightening it down fully. Once all the bolts are in place go back and snug them all down fully, following a circular pattern.

    • Replace the filler-neck/dipstick tube by routing it up behind the engine block and reconnecting it. This is a compression coupling, so no sealant is needed on these threads.

    • Once all parts are secured, add 4 quarts of Type-F automatic-transmission fluid to the system. Run the car in neutral for a few minutes, then shut it off, the start it again. With the engine still running, check the fluid level using the transmission dipstick. Add more fluid as necessary.
    In the segment that follows, the Thunderbird's drum brakes are refurbished.

    Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending on model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.


    RESOURCES :

    Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
    Model: 1850108900
    Author: Lindsay Porter
    Order this book from Amazon.com
    Haynes Publishing

    The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
    Author: Dan Ramsey
    ISBN: 0028635833
    Alpha Books

    Auto Repair for Dummies
    Author: Deanna Sclar
    ISBN: 0764550896

    Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners and Restorers of Classic and Collectible Automobiles
    1557881944
    Jim Richardson
    (November 1994)
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    H.P. Books

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