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  • 1962 Ford T-Bird: Shock-Absorber Upgrade
  • From "Classic Car Restoration"
    episode DCR-303


    PHOTO

    The old shocks on our 1962 Thunderbird show signs of leaking. The old, oil-filled shocks will be replaced with new gas-shocks.
    So far in our chassis and suspension work, the '62 Thunderbird's leaf-spring bushings and pads were replaced. In this segment, work on the suspension continues as the car's old, oil-filled shock absorbers are replaced with modern gas-shocks.

    Following is a summary of the major steps in the installation of the shocks as shown in the episode.

    Materials:

    Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, extensions, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, etc.)
    Air compressor and impact wrenches (optional)
    Needle-nosed pliers
    Replacement shocks (gas shock-absorbers)
    Jack and jack-stands
    Floor jack
    Spray lubricant
    Black spray-paint

    Safety Equipment:

    Work gloves
    Safety glasses or other eye protection

    Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.
    advertisement


    Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.

    Rear Shocks Replacement

    • Using a socket or impact wrench, remove the retaining nut from the bottom of the shock absorber at the spring-clip plate (figure A).

    • Next, remove the three nuts holding the upper mounting bracket (figure B) to remove the shock.
      Photo

      Figure A

      Photo

      Figure B


      PHOTO

      Figure C
      PHOTO

      Figure D
      PHOTO

      Figure E
    • Oil-filled shocks like those originally on this car are expensive and difficult to find. We replaced the shocks with modern gas-charged shocks, which perform better and are available at auto centers. To keep the appearance true to the original car, however, we spray-painted the white gas-shocks in semi-gloss black so that, cosmetically at least, they would resemble the original shocks (figure C).

    • The next step is to transfer the shock-absorber bracket to the new shock and install new bushings. Using a 9/16-socket, remove the shock-absorber bracket from the old shock. Install a new washer and bushing on the top stud, add the bracket and another new bushing and washer. Use the socket to tighten the assembly down (figure D).

      Important: When tightening down the assembly, avoid over-tightening to the point of over-compressing the bushings. Tighten just enough to give a slight amount of pre-load or moderate compression.

    • Returning underneath the car, re-align the bracket with the holes on the chassis and install the three 9/16-inch bolts that hold it in position.

      Tip: Make sure to clean any rust off the bolt threads before tightening them down. Hand-thread the bolts first, then go back and tighten them down with the socket.

      Once the top of the shock absorber is secured to the vehicle, move to the bottom to secure it, installing a fresh bushing at the bottom of the shock. To do this, use the floor-jack to raise the axle (figure E) to expose more of the shock's threads.

    • With a sufficient amount of the shock's stud exposed, install a new bushing and washer and secure it with a nut (figure F).

    • As before, hand-thread the nut to avoid cross-threading. Once you're certain that the nut is on correctly, tighten it with the appropriate socket (figure G). And as with the upper bushings, tighten just enough so that the bushings just barely begin to compress. Avoid tightening to the point where the bushings begin to flatten.

    • Repeat the steps to replace the other rear shock.
      Photo

      Figure F

      Photo

      Figure G


    Front Shocks Replacement

    With the rear shocks replaced, work can now begin on replacing the car's front shock absorbers.

    • Once again, the "helping hand" floor-jack is used -- this time to support the lower control arm. This will prevent the heavy parts in this procedure from dropping suddenly when the shock is pulled.

    • Use a 9/16-socket to loosen the shock's bottom stud-nut (figure H).

    • With the nut removed, slowly relieve the tension on the floor-jack to slowly lower the control-arm (figure I). Now the car can be lowered so that work can begin accessing the upper end of the front shock from under the hood.
      Photo

      Figure H

      Photo

      Figure I


      PHOTO

      Figure J
      PHOTO

      Figure K
    • Use a socket wrench to loosen the stud at the top end of the shock absorber (figure J).

      Tip: Remove the air-filter housing for better access to the shock. Use a clean rag to cover the open carburetor to prevent debris from falling into the engine.

    • To keep the stud from spinning as you remove the nut, it may be helpful to hold the stud with needle-nosed pliers as you turn the nut using an open-end wrench (figure K). Once the nut is sufficiently loose, remove it as well as the old washer and bushing.
    • In order to remove the shock from the Thunderbird, the upper strut running between the cowl and fender must be removed. Loosen the bolts that hold the strut to the dash panel, and the bolts that hold the strut at the mounting plate, and lift the strut out (figure L).

    • With the strut removed, and the nut and bushings removed from the shock, the old shock absorber can now simply be lifted out (figure M).
      Photo

      Figure L

      Photo

      Figure M


    • Add the new washer and bushing onto lower end of the new gas-shock.

    • Carefully lower the new shock down into the shock tower.

    • Add the new washer and bushing onto the upper end of the shock-stud.

    • Reposition the upper strut that was removed earlier.

    • Gas-shocks need to be compressed slightly as they are installed. This type of shock compresses fairly easily, and it can be done by hand.

    • Reinstall the strut mounting plate and secure it with its mounting bolts. At this point, hand-tighten the bolts to keep the strut in place. Re-attach the back of the strut to the dash-panel firewall, and tighten down the nuts. Now go back and tighten the bolts fully at the mounting plate.

      With the shock firmly in place, add the second bushing, washer and nut to the top end of the shock-stud and tighten down until the bushing just starts to bulge (figure N). As before, avoid over-tightening.

      You'll now need to access the underside of the car once again to secure the bottom end of the shock absorber to the lower control-arm. This step is a little tricky since installing the rubber bushing at the lower stud may tend to push the lower end of the shock back up into the shock tower -- making installation difficult. To overcome this tendency, use the "helping-hand" once again to jack up the suspension so that the shock absorber extends out sufficiently and is oriented properly for installation of the bushing.

      Safety Alert: Avoid raising the car too far as it may become unstable on the lift.

      With the bottom end of the stud exposed sufficiently using the lift, you should be able to position the bushing and washer, and secure it by tightening the nut just enough to begin compressing the bushing (figure O).
      Photo

      Figure N

      Photo

      Figure O


    With the leaf springs refurbished and the old shocks replaced with new ones, the T-bird's suspension and ride should be much improved. In the segment that follows, work begins on the driveshaft and rear U-joint.


    RESOURCES :

    Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
    Model: 1850108900
    Author: Lindsay Porter
    Order this book from Amazon.com
    Haynes Publishing

    The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
    Author: Dan Ramsey
    ISBN: 0028635833
    Alpha Books

    Auto Repair for Dummies
    Author: Deanna Sclar
    ISBN: 0764550896

    Haynes Restoration Manual Classic Car Interior: The Complete Illustrated
    Model: 185010932X
    Author: Ken Henson

    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    Motorbooks International

    The Complete Idiot's Guide to Car Care and Repair Illustrated
    0028644328
    Dan Ramsey
    (December 2002)
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    Alpha Books

    Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners and Restorers of Classic and Collectible Automobiles
    1557881944
    Jim Richardson
    (November 1994)
    To order this title from Amazon, click here.
    H.P. Books


    T-birds.com
    T-Birds.com
    A website dedicated to the appreciation of 1961 through 1963 Ford Thunderbirds. Hard-to-find restoration parts and materials, including reconditioned original t-bird body parts, can be found through t-birds.com.

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE:


  • Gutter Repair
  • Landscaping Basics
  • Flooring
  • UV Air Sanitizer
  • Replacement Windows
  • Planter, Self-Watering
  • Hand-Painted Glasses
  • Choose Washer/Dryer
  • Backsplash Installation
  • Hand-Painted Bowls
  • Prepare for Vacation
  • Maintain Garage Door
  • Disinfect Bathroom
  • Romance Kit
  • Curb Appeal
  • Transport Equipment
  • Installing Undermount
  • Holiday Decorating
  • Family Scrapbook
  • Ice Candle
  • Selecting Doors
  • Spark Plug, Changing
  • Maintain Cabinets
  • Front Door Facelift
  • Change Windowpane