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  • 1962 Corvette Restoration: Engine Removal
  • From "Classic Car Restoration"
    episode DCR-204
    advertisement

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    Engine removal is most definitely a two-man operation. Mark Lambert and restoration-specialist Roger Schmidt prepare to connect the engine to the engine-hoist. Once all preparations have been made, one person will operate the lift while the other carefully guides the engine as it is lifted out of the vehicle.

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    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

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    Figure G

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    Figure H

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    Figure I

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    Figure J

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    Figure K

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    Figure L

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    Figure M

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    Figure N

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    Figure O

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    Figure P

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    Figure Q


    With the engine disconnected from various systems on the automobile (cooling system, exhaust, electrical wiring, drive shaft, fuel system, etc.), the engine and transmission are now ready for removal from the vehicle.


    Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgraded kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.

    Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.


    Engine Removal


    Materials:

    Engine hoist
    Heavy chain
    Hardened bolts
    Engine stand
    Air-powered wrench
    Standard automotive tools (socket wrenches, screwdrivers, nut drivers, etc.)


    Steps:


    • The engine/transmission assembly weighs between 500 and 600 pounds, so an engine hoist and engine stand will be required for this job. Engine hoists and related equipment can be rented from most rental centers, typically for around $30 per day.

    • A lift tilt-bar is used in securing the engine to the lift. The tilt-bar (figure A) enables the angle of the engine and transmission to be adjusted during the lifting procedure so that the engine can be removed safely and without damaging parts or the body of the vehicle.

    • Feed the front chains through the eyelet of the tilt bar, then connect the ends of the chain to the engine using hardened bolts. In our case, we used 3/8-inch hardened bolts.

      Safety Alert: It's essential to use hardened bolts to ensure that the bolts don't shear while the engine is suspended.

    • Feed the rear chain through the tilt bar, and secure the chain ends to the old manifold bolts.

    • Holding the tilt-bar up, adjust the chain to center the bar (figure B).

    • Position the engine hoist over the engine, and hook the arm of the hoist to the tilt-bar (figure C).

    • Using a power-wrench, the tilt-bar can now be adjusted to balance the weight of the engine.

    • Lift the engine slightly until the hoist is holding the weight of the engine (figure D).

    • With the weight supported by the hoist, the engine-mount stansions can be unbolted and removed to provide additional clearance for pulling the engine the rest of the way out.

    • As one person guides the engine out, operate the hoist to lift the engine up high enough so that it can be safely lifted out and over the front of the car (figure E).

    • Adjust the tilt bar as needed as the engine is lifted out. Carefully maneuver the engine to provide adequate clearance for the tail of the transmission (figure F).

    • Once the engine is clear, the hoist can be rolled to bring the engine away from the vehicle (figure G).

    • With the engine removed from the car, it can be lowered carefully to the ground for separating the transmission from the bell-housing. Spray the bell-housing bolts with penetrating oil, and loosen the bolts using a power wrench.

    • With the bolts removed, carefully lift the transmission free of the bell-housing (figure H). Once again, this is a step that is best done with two people.

    • With the transmission separated from the engine, we inspect the throw-out bearing (figure I) and find it to be worn out and in need of replacement.

    • Next, unbolt and remove the bell-housing from the engine, using caution to avoid damaging the bolts.

    • With the bell-housing removed, the locator studs are visible on the engine (figure J). These studs are necessary for locating the bell-housing precisely when it is installed. The positioning must be precise since it controls the position of the transmission and input shaft. (The bolt-holes alone are not a reliable means of aligning the bell-housing.)

    • Remove the bolts from the clutch pressure-plate (figure K), following a star pattern to avoid warping or damaging the mounting surface.

    • Carefully remove the clutch pressure-plate and inspect it for wear. In our case, we found the plate to be almost completely worn down to the rivets. This clutch plate had been pushed about as far as it could go before completely wearing out (figure L).

    • Also inspect the condition of the flywheel where it has been in contact with the pressure-plate. Worn "hot-spots" provide additional evidence that the clutch was nearing the end of its us useful life.

    • Tip: On most engines, it's only possible to install the flywheel one way -- in the proper orientation. For added certainty, strike a notch on the back of the crankshaft with a screwdriver before removing the flywheel. The small mark (figure M) can be used as reference to ensure that the fly-wheel is properly installed, and optimized for dynamic balance, later on.

    • Remove the flywheel bolts -- again following a star pattern -- and save the bolts in a labeled bag. Note that each of these bolts is used with a star-washer (figure N) to grab the bolt-head and keep it securely in place.

    • With the bolts removed, carefully lift the flywheel off the engine (figure O).

    • With the flywheel removed, the engine can be attached to an engine stand. Attach the engine-stand pivot to the engine using case-hardened bolts (figures P and Q). With the pivot attached, the engine is ready to be lifted and slipped onto the stand.


    RESOURCES :

    Corvette Black Book : 1953-2001
    Model: 0933534477
    Author: Michael Antonick

    Corvette: The American Legend
    Model: 0785343741
    Author: Consumer Guide Editors

    Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners ...
    Model: 1557881944
    Author: Jim Richardson
    Order this book from Amazon.com
    H.P. Books

    Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
    Model: 1850108900
    Author: Lindsay Porter
    Order this book from Amazon.com
    Haynes Publishing

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