In this segment, Mark Lambert services the wheel components of the 1962 Corvette, including the wheel hubs, bearings and races. Note: This is a summary of steps included in the automotive restoration procedures shown in this episode of Classic Car Restoration. These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project. There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgraded kits selected. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select. Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.
Wheel-Hubs and Bearings
Servicing the front end of the vehicle begins with the front hubs, and replacement of the front wheel-bearings. This is a straightforward job, and can typically be completed in an afternoon.
Materials:
Standard automotive tools (socket-wrenches, etc.)
Replacement bearings, races and seals
Power wrench
Brass drift
Steel punch
Hammer
Channel-lock pliers
Chassis spray-paint
Eye protection
Steps:
- Begin by removing the wheel lug-nuts and pulling the wheel off.
- With the wheel off, remove the dust-cap from the wheel-hub. In our case, we found that the cotter-pin that holds the nut in place was worn and extremely loose (figure A), so it would need to be replaced with a new one.
- Remove the old cotter pin and the nut, then carefully lift off and remove the hub (figure B).
- On an early model Corvette like ours, the brake drum can be separated from the hub. Remove the drum and set it aside.
- Use a brass drift to tap out the inner bearing and seal, then use a steel punch to drive out the inner hub-race (figure C).
Note: The race is a round track into which the wheel-bearing fits. The inner hub-race is on the inside -- closest to the car. - Flip the hub over to remove the outer race. With the hub resting on an anvil or other hard surface, break the outer race free using the steel punch. You may need to place the hub in the jaws of a vise to break the race out completely (figure D).
- With the races removed, can wipe the hub clean with a shop rag.
- Once the hub is well cleaned, the new races can be set in place. Set the inner hub-race first. Using your bare fingers, wipe a little grease inside the hub and set the race in position.
- Use a hammer to carefully tap the race into position (figure E), tapping alternately on one side and then the other. Tap the race down into the hub until it is completely seated.
Tip: You'll know that the race has seated all the way against the shoulder of the hub because the blows of the hammer will change from a "ring" sound to a dull "thud."
- With the inner race set, flip the hub over and repeat the steps to set the outer race.
- With the races set, the next step is to grease and install the inner bearings. These are old-fashioned ball-bearings like the ones Chevrolet used until the mid-1960s. (The industry has since gone to tapered roller-bearings which last longer.) Apply a liberal amount of grease to the bearings (figure F) and set it in place.
- Important: Apply bearing-grease using your bare fingers (yes, it's a messy job), but be sure to wash your hands first to avoid contaminating the grease with any dirt particles or other particulate matter that may be transferred from your hands.
- With the bearing installed, place the seal into position and tap it down gently with a hammer (figure G), using the same technique you used earlier to install the races. Tap around the surface of the seal until it's even with the lip of the hub.
- Repeat the process on the outer wheel-bearings, using clean hands to grease the bearings.
- Remove the old axle-race, clean the spindle and slide the new axle-race onto the spindle (figure H).
- Place the hub onto the spindle (figure I), making sure that the inner bearing mates up with the new axle-race that was just installed.
- Place the freshly-greased outer axle-bearing, along with its axle-race onto the spindle (figure J).
- Fit the shoulder washer over the hub, then add the nut, threading it all the way down to the washer. Use channel-lock pliers to tighten and adjust the nut (figure K).
- Tip: Here's a technique for properly adjusting the wheel bearing and hub:
- Place the brake-drum and wheel back on the vehicle.
- Thread the lug-nuts by hand, then tighten them down with a power wrench.
- To adjust the wheel bearing, rock the wheel as you tighten the hub by turning the nut (figure L).
- Continue to tighten until the wheel firms up and no longer rocks. Stop turning the nut at that point, then use your pliers to rotate the nut back to the nearest castellation notch (figure M).
- Install the new cotter pin and fold the ends back (figure N). Use your pliers to pinch the cotter pin to secure it in place. If properly installed, the cotter pin should allow now "wiggling" movement in the hub.
- With the bearings installed and adjusted, clean out the dust cap, apply some fresh grease to the inside and re-install the dust cap, tapping it gently into place with a hammer (figure O).
Repeat the same steps on the other front wheel. New bearings, properly installed and adjusted, will give this vintage 'Vette that "new-car" feel in the steering wheel. In the segment that follows, work on the Corvette's platform continues with the suspension.
RESOURCES :
Corvette Black Book : 1953-2001
Model: 0933534477
Author: Michael Antonick
Corvette: The American Legend
Model: 0785343741
Author: Consumer Guide Editors
Classic Car Restorer's Handbook: Restoration Tips and Techniques for Owners ...
Model: 1557881944
Author: Jim Richardson
Order this book from Amazon.com
H.P. Books
Classic Car Restoration Guide: The Complete Illustrated Step-By-Step Manual
Model: 1850108900
Author: Lindsay Porter
Order this book from Amazon.com
Haynes Publishing
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