| Electric Rear-Window -- Replacing the Window |
From "Weekend Mechanic"
episode WKM-209 |
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Replacing the Old Window With the seats and interior panels removed, the next phase of the power rear-window installation is the removal of the original rear window. Important: Included below are the steps in this automotive procedure as shown in the episode. These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most similar vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type of window kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts. Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools. Safety Alert: As a standard safety precaution, always disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before you begin work on any electrical or mechanical components.
- To remove the rear-window glass, the nuts fastened to the studs holding the glass and rubber seal in position must be loosened and removed. Using a ratchet, begin with the center bolt (figure A) and work your way outward -- loosening each nut -- around the perimeter of the window. It's important to remove the nuts in the proper sequence to avoid warping the cab wall.
- Once all of the nuts have been loosened, have an assistant hold the glass from the outside (figure B) as you remove the nuts completely from the bolts.
- With the nuts removed, the glass may pop out easily. In our case, the rubber seal was still preventing the glass from coming out. A putty knife was used to carefully separate the seal all the way around the edge of the glass (figure C). An older seal may be tough and require some effort. Take your time and use caution not to damage the lip of the opening as you break the rubber seal. Damage to the metal lip could result in a water leak later on.
- With the seal broken loose all the way around, press the glass firmly from the inside as an assistant, outside the cab, accepts the glass as it comes loose (figures D and E).
- With the old window-assembly removed from the opening, the residue of the old rubber seal (figure F) must be removed. You may be tempted to scrape the old rubber away. Avoid doing so since this could damage the metal surface, and result in rusting later on. Remove the rubber residue gently and by hand. You may want to use some solvent to help remove any remaining residue.
- Inspect the new window-kit, on comparison to the old window (figure G), to ensure that the dimensions are correct so that the new window will fit exactly in the opening. Check the positions of the studs to ensure that they correspond with those on the old window assembly.
- Inspect the sliding glass and latch assembly on the new window (figure H) to ensure that they work properly.
- When you're ready to install the new window, carefully remove the protective film on the rubber seal, making sure that nothing comes into contact with the sticky surface or damages the new seal.
- With the help of an assistant, carefully lift the new window assembly into position (figure I) and secure it from the inside with the clips (figure J) and side-nuts.
- Beginning with the center nut, begin tightening the nuts onto the securing bolts. Begin with the center, and work your way out -- tightening each nut down only part way. Then go back and tighten each nut down fully. Follow the manufacturer's directions for tightening in the proper sequence to avoid warping or bending the window frame or body.
In the segment that follows, the electric motor and wiring are installed to provide power to the automatic window.
RESOURCES :
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Car Care
Author: Dan Ramsey
ISBN: 0028635833
Alpha Books
Auto Repair for Dummies
Author: Deanna Sclar
ISBN: 0764550896
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